MHD Ecu unlock, software only!

[solidsleeper]

bassrebel Did you replace your coils too? If you already have new coils, maybe swap cylinder coil 4 with cylinder coil 1 and see if the misfire follows, and if you have more time also swap cylinder 5 coil with cyl 2. Based on your screenshot it looks like it's cyl 4 & 5 that are the issue?

[bassrebel]

Originally Posted by solidsleeper

bassrebel Did you replace your coils too? If you already have new coils, maybe swap cylinder coil 4 with cylinder coil 1 and see if the misfire follows, and if you have more time also swap cylinder 5 coil with cyl 2. Based on your screenshot it looks like it's cyl 4 & 5 that are the issue?

I had the same misfires before/after coils... I'm guessing maybe the plugs weren't installed correctly?

[solidsleeper]

Originally Posted by bassrebel

I had the same misfires before/after coils... I'm guessing maybe the plugs weren't installed correctly?

I would more guess towards a faulty coil rather than a faulty plug, but if you're gonna try swapping coils, you could take a look at the plugs too to see if there is anything abnormal.

[wheela]

Originally Posted by solidsleeper

I would more guess towards a faulty coil rather than a faulty plug, but if you're gonna try swapping coils, you could take a look at the plugs too to see if there is anything abnormal.

I tend to agree. Unless the plugs got damaged during install, or they were the wrong plugs, not sure what they could have messed up?

[wheela]

Originally Posted by bassrebel

I had the same misfires before/after coils... I'm guessing maybe the plugs weren't installed correctly?

This may be a dumb question, but could they have accidentally mixed up the coils during change out and mistakenly put your old ones back on 4 & 5? Or got distracted and didn't change all of them? Seems very unlikely. I've never changed coils, but it might be worth double-checking and cleaning the connections at both ends of the 4 & 5 coils. If a maf or t-map had a bad connection, I'd think you'd get a code? You could try unplugging and replugging them in again incase a contact got dirty somehow.

[wheela]

Originally Posted by solidsleeper

wheela I think people on this forum say to launch at 2,000 rpm, but I've never done it. Also to shift early before redline (I think around 5,500-6,000 rpm and you can also cross check your log to see at what rpm boost really takes a dive). If you want more power, you gotta go downpipe, best bang for your buck.

I'm getting my vrsf catless downpipe installed this friday. Hopefully the issue is just an oem cat all clogged up from 3 years of a short 3 mile commute, + a year of quarantine with no long drives. Excited to see the difference the dp will make!

[bassrebel]

Originally Posted by solidsleeper

I would more guess towards a faulty coil rather than a faulty plug, but if you're gonna try swapping coils, you could take a look at the plugs too to see if there is anything abnormal.

Originally Posted by wheela

This may be a dumb question, but could they have accidentally mixed up the coils during change out and mistakenly put your old ones back on 4 & 5? Or got distracted and didn't change all of them? Seems very unlikely. I've never changed coils, but it might be worth double-checking and cleaning the connections at both ends of the 4 & 5 coils. If a maf or t-map had a bad connection, I'd think you'd get a code? You could try unplugging and replugging them in again incase a contact got dirty somehow.

Since I've been working from home and not had the need to drive the truck I haven't done anything... quick, weird question... would it be possible for the installer to mix the wiring for plugs 4 & 5? Maybe the coils are working, maybe the plugs are working OK... maybe the problem is the wiring?

[solidsleeper]

Originally Posted by bassrebel

Since I've been working from home and not had the need to drive the truck I haven't done anything... quick, weird question... would it be possible for the installer to mix the wiring for plugs 4 & 5? Maybe the coils are working, maybe the plugs are working OK... maybe the problem is the wiring?

No worries on the weird questions, I ask weird questions all the time
It wouldn't be possible to mix the ignition coil wiring for 4 & 5. I replaced my coils and plugs and it wouldn't be possible, unless you're cutting and splicing wires (but 100% no way anyone would do that). The stock ignition wires wouldn't be long enough to reach a different cylinder other than the cylinder it's supposed to go into (pretty idiot proof)

[solidsleeper]

bassrebel I might be reaching here, but how is your cars battery? You mentioned you've been working from home, had you been driving the X1 for any long distances or just short errands to pick up the groceries? I may be out there with this suggestion, but maybe the battery isn't up to par and it's not sending enough voltage to the ignition coils. Also curious, check your rear trunk battery, is it the original oem battery or has it been replaced by an aftermarket?

[bassrebel]

Originally Posted by solidsleeper

bassrebel I might be reaching here, but how is your cars battery? You mentioned you've been working from home, had you been driving the X1 for any long distances or just short errands to pick up the groceries? I may be out there with this suggestion, but maybe the battery isn't up to par and it's not sending enough voltage to the ignition coils. Also curious, check your rear trunk battery, is it the original oem battery or has it been replaced by an aftermarket?

Thanks for the coils explanation... that makes me feel better and sad at the same time lmao

My wife and I go for at least 100-200 mile trips on weekends to get some fresh air.

I bought a new battery in November, as it still had the same battery and it was struggling in the cold days, so I purchased a new one. I went aftermarket and registered it. Hm, perhaps the MHD deleted the battery info? Would that create this problem?

It started acting up as soon as I flashed MHD, maybe a correlation?

[solidsleeper]

Originally Posted by bassrebel

Thanks for the coils explanation... that makes me feel better and sad at the same time lmao

My wife and I go for at least 100-200 mile trips on weekends to get some fresh air.

I bought a new battery in November, as it still had the same battery and it was struggling in the cold days, so I purchased a new one. I went aftermarket and registered it. Hm, perhaps the MHD deleted the battery info? Would that create this problem?

It started acting up as soon as I flashed MHD, maybe a correlation?

What's the aftermarket battery rating compared to what you had stock? I believe every time you flash with MHD, it does wipe the battery registration. So if your aftermarket isn't the same rating as stock, then maybe your car is coded to the OEM battery rating and is causing these funky issues. If the aftermarket battery is the same rating as OEM, I don't think the battery coding is the issue.

What's your battery Ah rating vs your OEM? Also, AGM or non-AGM?

[bassrebel]

Originally Posted by solidsleeper

What's the aftermarket battery rating compared to what you had stock? I believe every time you flash with MHD, it does wipe the battery registration. So if your aftermarket isn't the same rating as stock, then maybe your car is coded to the OEM battery rating and is causing these funky issues. If the aftermarket battery is the same rating as OEM, I don't think the battery coding is the issue.

What's your battery Ah rating vs your OEM? Also, AGM or non-AGM?

Frankly, I don't remember and it's raining... I'll check tomorrow morning and report back...

This is giving me hope! Chances are my feelings will be crushed if it doesn't work

[wheela]

Originally Posted by bassrebel

Since I've been working from home and not had the need to drive the truck I haven't done anything... quick, weird question... would it be possible for the installer to mix the wiring for plugs 4 & 5? Maybe the coils are working, maybe the plugs are working OK... maybe the problem is the wiring?

I remember reading on a different thread that a guy started having misfires on one cylinder after putting in new plugs. He pulled the new plug, and the ceramic insulator had gotten cracked when having its gap set. Apparently it's pretty easy to do that if you aren't careful.
Another new plug fixed the issue. I saw in your earlier post that you looked at your old plugs, but have you tried pulling the new plugs in 4 and 5 to look for any damage?

[wheela]

I wonder if your injectors could be getting clogged? It might not hurt to throw a bottle of chevron techron fuel system cleaner in the tank and see if things improve at all. It's atleast a cheap thing to try in the meantime.

[bassrebel]

Originally Posted by wheela

I wonder if your injectors could be getting clogged? It might not hurt to throw a bottle of chevron techron fuel system cleaner in the tank and see if things improve at all. It's atleast a cheap thing to try in the meantime.

Originally Posted by wheela

I remember reading on a different thread that a guy started having misfires on one cylinder after putting in new plugs. He pulled the new plug, and the ceramic insulator had gotten cracked when having its gap set. Apparently it's pretty easy to do that if you aren't careful.
Another new plug fixed the issue. I saw in your earlier post that you looked at your old plugs, but have you tried pulling the new plugs in 4 and 5 to look for any damage?

I don't have the tool for the plugs so that'll be something I'll have to buy. I mean it's worth taking a look at them to see...

And yes, I did buy Lucas fuel treatment for it... I guess another bottle wouldn't hurt

[bassrebel]

Originally Posted by solidsleeper

What's the aftermarket battery rating compared to what you had stock? I believe every time you flash with MHD, it does wipe the battery registration. So if your aftermarket isn't the same rating as stock, then maybe your car is coded to the OEM battery rating and is causing these funky issues. If the aftermarket battery is the same rating as OEM, I don't think the battery coding is the issue.

What's your battery Ah rating vs your OEM? Also, AGM or non-AGM?

So the battery is 80ah 900CCA.

However, it was registered as AGM and its non-AGM. I coded and re-registered the battery... we'll see now... so far I started it up and it was still stuttering

[darkrom]

Originally Posted by solidsleeper

What's the aftermarket battery rating compared to what you had stock? I believe every time you flash with MHD, it does wipe the battery registration. So if your aftermarket isn't the same rating as stock, then maybe your car is coded to the OEM battery rating and is causing these funky issues. If the aftermarket battery is the same rating as OEM, I don't think the battery coding is the issue.

What's your battery Ah rating vs your OEM? Also, AGM or non-AGM?

Originally Posted by solidsleeper

What's the aftermarket battery rating compared to what you had stock? I believe every time you flash with MHD, it does wipe the battery registration. So if your aftermarket isn't the same rating as stock, then maybe your car is coded to the OEM battery rating and is causing these funky issues. If the aftermarket battery is the same rating as OEM, I don't think the battery coding is the issue.

What's your battery Ah rating vs your OEM? Also, AGM or non-AGM?

Holy shit is this true. I have a non standard sized battery. Have I been over charging? Do I really need to re-code the car every time I swap from 93 to e30. That would suck.

[bassrebel]

Something to mention regarding my issues... if I rev the car while in neutral, I don't get any misfires or corrections... I can literally rev it till it hits the limiter and no problems... once I put it in gear and push the throttle down is when he'll starts breaking loose

[solidsleeper]

Originally Posted by darkrom

Holy shit is this true. I have a non standard sized battery. Have I been over charging? Do I really need to re-code the car every time I swap from 93 to e30. That would suck.

From what I see on both Bimmerlink and Protools apps, I believe this is true. I also reached out to MHD about it and they were not sure and didn't express any confidence about if this was true or not.

[solidsleeper]

Originally Posted by bassrebel

Something to mention regarding my issues... if I rev the car while in neutral, I don't get any misfires or corrections... I can literally rev it till it hits the limiter and no problems... once I put it in gear and push the throttle down is when he'll starts breaking loose

There's barely any load on your car at standstill in neutral. I now have a stronger belief it could be the battery coding reset from the MHD flash that could be causing your issue. (also note, I'm just going based off my forum research and my experience with MHD lol).

[solidsleeper]

darkrom I have both Bimmerlink (iOS/android same company as bimemrcode) and also Protools (android same company as bimmergeeks) and I'm 99% sure you can code/register the different types of battery Ah ratings & AGM/non-AGM. I believe they are both around $25-30 for either.

[bassrebel]

Originally Posted by solidsleeper

There's barely any load on your car at standstill in neutral. I now have a stronger belief it could be the battery coding reset from the MHD flash that could be causing your issue. (also note, I'm just going based off my forum research and my experience with MHD lol).

Correct me if I'm wrong (and I probably am!) but, wouldn't that just affect the way it charges the battery? Would it also affect how it distributes the electricity through the car?

I just changed the ah of the battery from 80ah AGM to 80ah. Anything else I need to do?