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      04-08-2015, 03:52 PM   #23
Njerts
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Kensun seems to spike to almost 20A on startup, they do not give exact values on Amazon
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      04-08-2015, 03:56 PM   #24
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Here's where I got that 20A figure: http://kensun.com/H7/
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      04-08-2015, 03:58 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolinX1 View Post
Totally agree.
You should try them without the relay setup first, it is very likely that it will solve your problem.
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      04-08-2015, 04:07 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolinX1 View Post
Here's where I got that 20A figure: http://kensun.com/H7/
Sorry I missed that post.
If you use that big resistor, which is typically 6ohm, you must add 2A to the current budget and that will bring it to 6.5A for start up and +- 5A for normal operation.
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      04-08-2015, 05:37 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Njerts View Post
You should try them without the relay setup first, it is very likely that it will solve your problem.
I do not currently have relay wiring. The way I'm wired up right now, it's

Oem h7 Bulb harness --> Kensun capacitor --> Kensun ballast --> Kensun bulb.

100% of the power supply is dependent upon the factory low beam wiring.

I truly believe that I just need to change the ballasts in attempt to lower that initial startup load. I don't think relayed wiring would be necessary with a lower draw ballast.
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      04-08-2015, 05:43 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolinX1 View Post
I do not currently have relay wiring. The way I'm wired up right now, it's

Oem h7 Bulb harness --> Kensun capacitor --> Kensun ballast --> Kensun bulb.

100% of the power supply is dependent upon the factory low beam wiring.

I truly believe that I just need to change the ballasts in attempt to lower that initial startup load. I don't think relayed wiring would be necessary with a lower draw ballast.
I meant with the new ballast
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      04-08-2015, 08:38 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Njerts View Post
I meant with the new ballast
Ahh, yes. I think I'm going to give your guys a shot.

They didn't answer the phone this evening but I'll call them tomorrow to see what they think. I really really like the idea of a clean install. Wired from the headlight harness, not a relay, canbus wiring inside the ballast.

As always, I'll keep you posted.
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      04-15-2015, 12:14 PM   #30
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<strike>Checking in.

Decided to wait it out. It has been 8 days now with the Kensun lighting parts and I have not experienced a single issue. Can start up the car with the light selector switch in any postion, day or night with no odd warnings or notifications.

EDIT 7-8-15 - THE PROBLEM CAME BACK. DON'T PURCHASE THE KENSUN PRODUCTS... See note below on how I fixed this issue.

Last edited by spoolinX1; 07-08-2015 at 10:50 AM..
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      07-08-2015, 10:54 AM   #31
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In early May, I decided I didn't want to deal with the errors anymore that were being tracked down to the ballasts being wired directly to the factory bulb harnesses. I decided to convert the entire setup to relay direct to the battery post. It has been over two months now and everything has been absolutely perfect since the day I made the switch.

I called many suppliers and talked with them on the phone. Xenon depot really knew their stuff. Their Xtreme kit has an extremely low initial draw.

Here's exactly what I ordered from xenon depot (KBcarstuff.com):

Error eliminator - Part number - RFix - Low Beam Failure Fix - $15.99

Ballast, bulb and relay kit - Part number XT-H7 - H7 Xtreme Digital HID Conversion Kits [HID Color:5000K] $154.99

$25 off Coupon Code DSC-49 ToyotaNation SUPER SALE!! [XT-H7] -$25.00

The light color is amazing. A little crisper white than my neighbor's OEM BMW xenons. Not blue at all. Matches the corona rings perfectly.

One thing to note is that the Error eliminators get EXTREMELY hot and they can not come in contact with any sort of wiring or plastic. Believe me, I touched one after it had been on for about 5 minutes and I wouldn't describe it as anything less than extremely hot. Definitely enough to melt the coating off of wires and right through rubber hoses. I zip tied them in place on each side of the vehicle without having anything come in contact with the heat sinks.

Here is where I tapped into the 12v terminal under the hood. The O-shaped terminal at the end of the relay is the perfect size to fit onto the bolt of the terminal. You don't need to make any modifications to the relay wiring or the terminal in any way. Make sure you unhook the negative cable from your battery in the trunk before tapping into this - It's a tight space and you're very likely to touch metal while tightening or loosening the nut on the 12V+ terminal. Each ballast has it's own designated in-line fuse.


Here is the RF Eliminator zip tied on the driver's side (Notice how it is not touching anything plastic or rubber):


Here is the RF Eliminator zip tied on the passenger's side (Notice how it is not touching anything plastic or rubber):


There are plenty of bolts on bolt sides of the car that you can use as for your ground. Just make sure you get nice clean metal with no paint on it. I used one from the air box and one from the power steering reservoir.

Clean installation. All wires are hidden except for what you see in the photos above. Ballasts are double sided taped to the underside of the headlights. Accessible from the inner fender well access door. The relay wire to the driver's side headlight could technically have used about 3-4 more inches in length in order for it to be a completely flawless run with the radiator wiring along the frontside of the car. Ultimately you can still make it look pretty darn good.

Last edited by spoolinX1; 07-08-2015 at 02:40 PM..
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      07-08-2015, 02:31 PM   #32
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Thanks again for all the information.
I will make use of it shortly.
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      07-29-2015, 09:50 AM   #33
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Have you considered disabling the low beam voltage monitor through coding to get rid of the resistors?
Very easy with bmwhat.
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      08-25-2015, 08:17 PM   #34
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I finally have my HID lights installed. I am pretty happy with the results.

Since I live in Canada, we have mandatory DRL which interfered with the high beam solenoid on the Bi-Xeon. I had to code the DRL from the High beam at low voltage to the angel eyes on the new lights. This maps to that tiny bulb in the halogen housing. (Very easy with BMWhat)

I used the same vendor as spoolinX1 but my lights came complete with D1S bulbs and ballast, plug compatible and no wiring changes or relays/resistors. It was a very clean install.

I will add more photos and content when I get time.

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Last edited by Njerts; 08-25-2015 at 08:23 PM..
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      08-27-2015, 01:38 AM   #35
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I'm about to jump into the aftermarket HID retrofit as well,
By same vendor, do you mean Kensun or Xenon Depot?

Would you mind telling which exact products you purchased to make it a clean easy install?

Thank you in advance!
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      08-27-2015, 08:52 AM   #36
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I hope I do not get in trouble posting links:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/For-B...354551144.html
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      08-27-2015, 12:02 PM   #37
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I paid less than that for my factory parts when I ordered.
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      08-27-2015, 02:07 PM   #38
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Perhaps you could only do this with the 35i, but it only cost me $650 CDN to add xenons as an a le carte option. Seems expensive for an aftermarket option...
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      08-27-2015, 02:19 PM   #39
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HID is the HBO of BMW. You have to add $$$$ for all the compulsory packages you have to take to get HID.
I did not have the option at any cost when i got my car because i did not want to wait for a custom order.
I did not go this route because i am cheap 😀
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      08-27-2015, 03:28 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Njerts View Post
HID is the HBO of BMW. You have to add $$$$ for all the compulsory packages you have to take to get HID.
I did not have the option at any cost when i got my car because i did not want to wait for a custom order.
I did not go this route because i am cheap 😀
It was part of the Lights Package on the 28i, $1000 no other packages necessary. Or as stated above, $650 on the 35i. Although, the 35i stand alone pack didn't come with the rest of the lights package components such as the Adaptive Lighting.

It was well worth me buying the other packages anyways. Since this car will never be a light weight racecar, it may as well be comfortable to drive.
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      08-27-2015, 03:51 PM   #41
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All in all this is not ideal, but that is the only option available.
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      08-27-2015, 04:49 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twix View Post
It was part of the Lights Package on the 28i, $1000 no other packages necessary. Or as stated above, $650 on the 35i. Although, the 35i stand alone pack didn't come with the rest of the lights package components such as the Adaptive Lighting.

It was well worth me buying the other packages anyways. Since this car will never be a light weight racecar, it may as well be comfortable to drive.
The adaptive lights was in the executive package when i bought and you have to take the tech package because you take the executive package.
The lights package had nothing to to with HID at that time, i could be wrong, but that is what i can recall.
Anyhow if it was available to me I would have taken it.
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      08-27-2015, 10:08 PM   #43
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This is a before after photo, the place is lit by florescent lamps, taken by my iPhone. Not ideal conditions for a photo about lights though.
But it will give you some idea, on the road the light output is amazing.

Before with upgraded halogen bulbs:
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After:
Name:  IMG_0316.jpg
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      08-28-2015, 09:39 AM   #44
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^ That does look nice
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