MHD Ecu unlock, software only!

[wheela]

Originally Posted by Bolhaboy

VRSF FMIC, VRSF Chargepipe, AFE Drop in Intake, XHP Stage 2, MHD 1+, H&R/ Bilstein combo. Nothing too crazy as far as mods go, I also did plugs recently but not coils and took it to my shop but they said they couldn't diagnose it as I cleared the code they had nothing to go off of. I ordered the Fuel-It stage 1 LPFP upgrade, new oxygen sensor, and new high pressure fuel sensor just to be precautionary.

Can you post a log for us to look at? Does anything seem off when you drive it? Have you had this code for a while, or did it just recently pop up?

[Bolhaboy]

Originally Posted by wheela

Can you post a log for us to look at? Does anything seem off when you drive it? Have you had this code for a while, or did it just recently pop up?

Just recently popped up but I only switched to MHD like a month ago from Dinan stage 2, I'm kind of a nooby regarding this stuff so I'm not exactly sure how to record a log.

[projectbarnie]

Originally Posted by Bolhaboy

Anybody else with MHD run into 2BC0 Fuel-air mixture too lean codes, looking for some fix ideas

Originally Posted by Bolhaboy

Anybody else with MHD run into 2BC0 Fuel-air mixture too lean codes, looking for some fix ideas

Yep.. since I flashed to stage 1 in thanksgiving. Shop found the lower intake tract was cracked, replaced that. Still had issues, found that my pcv valve is bad, replaced valve cover and everything seems ok. My ltft hangs around +12 - +15 while cruising and WOT drops to +10 - +11

Current mods are:
Vsrf chargepipe
Fmic
Downpipe
Afe drop in filter
MHD stage 2+


I've swapped my maf sensor and there's no major change in anything. Next would be o2 sensor. If that doesn't fix it then I'm giving up.

[solidsleeper]

Originally Posted by projectbarnie

Yep.. since I flashed to stage 1 in thanksgiving. Shop found the lower intake tract was cracked, replaced that. Still had issues, found that my pcv valve is bad, replaced valve cover and everything seems ok. My ltft hangs around +12 - +15 while cruising and WOT drops to +10 - +11

Current mods are:
Vsrf chargepipe
Fmic
Downpipe
Afe drop in filter
MHD stage 2+


I've swapped my maf sensor and there's no major change in anything. Next would be o2 sensor. If that doesn't fix it then I'm giving up.

What is your STFT during WOT? You need to add STFT and LTFT to get the full picture on your fuel trim health. If you're car is running smoothly and you have +-10% fuel trim, there isn't really anything to stress out about.

And what are your fuel trims at idle? I don't think cruising fuel trim is a huge deal unless you're having issues while cruising.

[projectbarnie]

Originally Posted by solidsleeper

What is your STFT during WOT? You need to add STFT and LTFT to get the full picture on your fuel trim health. If you're car is running smoothly and you have +-10% fuel trim, there isn't really anything to stress out about.

And what are your fuel trims at idle? I don't think cruising fuel trim is a huge deal unless you're having issues while cruising.

STFT is -21 during WOT

At idle in D STFT is near 0 and LTFT is at +14

[wheela]

Originally Posted by bassrebel

No more hesitation! All is well now! =]

Thank you and @solidsleeper for all the help!

Here's a pic of the spark plugs... these were put on in December

Anybody familiar with plug reading? I'm definitely not, but do those plus look fouled up? If they were new plugs and were already fouled up, is something going on in cylinders 4 @ 5 that caused them to foul so quickly? If so, I'd be concerned that the new plugs you just put in will foul up again soon. But I don't know, maybe those plugs have a normal amount of soot?

[solidsleeper]

Originally Posted by projectbarnie

STFT is -21 during WOT

At idle in D STFT is near 0 and LTFT is at +14

At idle try raising and hold RPM to a steady 2000 RPM for 30 seconds, does LTFT drop or stay at +14?

Assuming your AFRs are good, your WOT fuel trims are ok. +10% LTFT / -21% STFT (-11% total) during WOT is ok.

What makes you think new O2 sensors would be the next fix? Are you getting engine codes? How many miles does your car have? Maybe your injectors are just a little gunky, do you always use top tier fuel? Have you ever tried using one of those fuel system cleaners in a tank of gas like a bottle of Techron/Redline s-1/Liquimoly Jectron?

[wheela]

Originally Posted by projectbarnie

STFT is -21 during WOT

At idle in D STFT is near 0 and LTFT is at +14

So at idle the DME is adding 14% extra fuel to hit stoich for the amount of air the cylinders are getting. Then at WOT it has to cut fuel, as it's getting too much fuel for the air in the cylinders. The intake tends to be under vacuum at idle, and obviously under pressure at boost. Maybe a boost leak somewhere letting in extra air at idle (sucking extra air in that wasn't counted by the MAF under vacuum), and leaking air out under boost (loosing air that was counted by the MAF)?

[projectbarnie]

Originally Posted by solidsleeper

At idle try raising and hold RPM to a steady 2000 RPM for 30 seconds, does LTFT drop or stay at +14?

Assuming your AFRs are good, your WOT fuel trims are ok. +10% LTFT / -21% STFT (-11% total) during WOT is ok.

What makes you think new O2 sensors would be the next fix? Are you getting engine codes? How many miles does your car have? Maybe your injectors are just a little gunky, do you always use top tier fuel? Have you ever tried using one of those fuel system cleaners in a tank of gas like a bottle of Techron/Redline s-1/Liquimoly Jectron?

Originally Posted by solidsleeper

At idle try raising and hold RPM to a steady 2000 RPM for 30 seconds, does LTFT drop or stay at +14?

Assuming your AFRs are good, your WOT fuel trims are ok. +10% LTFT / -21% STFT (-11% total) during WOT is ok.

What makes you think new O2 sensors would be the next fix? Are you getting engine codes? How many miles does your car have? Maybe your injectors are just a little gunky, do you always use top tier fuel? Have you ever tried using one of those fuel system cleaners in a tank of gas like a bottle of Techron/Redline s-1/Liquimoly Jectron?

It drops down to +10 I think. And I had just ran a bottle of jetron the other day and no change. The shop that services my car says ideally, the fuel trim should stay around 0. +12 is right around when it would trigger a code.

And my car did trip a code last week for p0171 but it has yet to return.

[projectbarnie]

Originally Posted by wheela

So at idle the DME is adding 14% extra fuel to hit stoich for the amount of air the cylinders are getting. Then at WOT it has to cut fuel, as it's getting too much fuel for the air in the cylinders. The intake tends to be under vacuum at idle, and obviously under pressure at boost. Maybe a boost leak somewhere letting in extra air at idle (sucking extra air in that wasn't counted by the MAF under vacuum), and leaking air out under boost (loosing air that was counted by the MAF)?

Originally Posted by solidsleeper

At idle try raising and hold RPM to a steady 2000 RPM for 30 seconds, does LTFT drop or stay at +14?

Assuming your AFRs are good, your WOT fuel trims are ok. +10% LTFT / -21% STFT (-11% total) during WOT is ok.

What makes you think new O2 sensors would be the next fix? Are you getting engine codes? How many miles does your car have? Maybe your injectors are just a little gunky, do you always use top tier fuel? Have you ever tried using one of those fuel system cleaners in a tank of gas like a bottle of Techron/Redline s-1/Liquimoly Jectron?

Originally Posted by wheela

So at idle the DME is adding 14% extra fuel to hit stoich for the amount of air the cylinders are getting. Then at WOT it has to cut fuel, as it's getting too much fuel for the air in the cylinders. The intake tends to be under vacuum at idle, and obviously under pressure at boost. Maybe a boost leak somewhere letting in extra air at idle (sucking extra air in that wasn't counted by the MAF under vacuum), and leaking air out under boost (loosing air that was counted by the MAF)?

Where should I look first? Already had lower intake tract replaced.

[solidsleeper]

Originally Posted by wheela

Anybody familiar with plug reading? I'm definitely not, but do those plus look fouled up? If they were new plugs and were already fouled up, is something going on in cylinders 4 @ 5 that caused them to foul so quickly? If so, I'd be concerned that the new plugs you just put in will foul up again soon. But I don't know, maybe those plugs have a normal amount of soot?

I'm no expert, but it looks normal for a plug that was misfiring . What was the cause of the misfire? I'd assume a faulty spark due to either the coil and/or the plug. Maybe dielectric grease around the insulators would help mitigate any weak spark? Maybe sparks weren't torqued or gapped to spec? Maybe the new spark plugs were just bad to begin with? NEW stands for Never Ever Worked

[wheela]

Originally Posted by projectbarnie

Where should I look first? Already had lower intake tract replaced.

There's more vacuum at idle after the throttle body, but since you replaced your charge pipe, I'd start with checking those connections. When you put in your chargepipe, did you use the new o-ring that came with it for the connection to the throttlebody? Also at the other end of the CP, if the clamp is too loose it can leak, also if it's too tight the clamp can sqeeze the connection out of round and cause a leak. Also does your intercooler have the OEM style connections or hose clamps? Those connections could be leaky too.

[wheela]

Originally Posted by solidsleeper

I'm no expert, but it looks normal for a plug that was misfiring . What was the cause of the misfire? I'd assume a faulty spark due to either the coil and/or the plug. Maybe dielectric grease around the insulators would help mitigate any weak spark? Maybe sparks weren't torqued or gapped to spec? Maybe the new spark plugs were just bad to begin with? NEW stands for Never Ever Worked

Haha, very true! But two bad new ones is suspicious... But if the misfires don't come back then things are probably fine.

[projectbarnie]

Originally Posted by wheela

There's more vacuum at idle after the throttle body, but since you replaced your charge pipe, I'd start with checking those connections. When you put in your chargepipe, did you use the new o-ring that came with it for the connection to the throttlebody? Also at the other end of the CP, if the clamp is too loose it can leak, also if it's too tight the clamp can sqeeze the connection out of round and cause a leak. Also does your intercooler have the OEM style connections or hose clamps? Those connections could be leaky too.

Originally Posted by wheela

There's more vacuum at idle after the throttle body, but since you replaced your charge pipe, I'd start with checking those connections. When you put in your chargepipe, did you use the new o-ring that came with it for the connection to the throttlebody? Also at the other end of the CP, if the clamp is too loose it can leak, also if it's too tight the clamp can sqeeze the connection out of round and cause a leak. Also does your intercooler have the OEM style connections or hose clamps? Those connections could be leaky too.

The chargepipe has been in the car for about 2-3 years now. I did use a new oring when I installed it and I ordered another one just in case (should be arriving in a couple days).

For the intercooler, I used the oem connections with old o rings ( those are on order too).

What should the fuel trim be at idle?