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      04-06-2017, 08:57 AM   #287
spoolinX1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrematureApex View Post
You may get lucky and be able to drop it out with just number 1 (I was able to on one side, not the other).

The third way (and the way I did it I think, is to do #1 AND use the spring compressors to shorten up the assembly. Yes, it's a bitch to reach up there to turn them with the struts bolted in, but it's possible.

IIRC, I was more likely to pop the CV joints out rotating the knuckle too much doing #3.

And don't worry too much about the CV's popping out. You'll know it when it happens. Just line up the axle and smack the end with a BFH (and a piece of wood). It will pop back in without much trouble.

Oh, big tip: I forget which way, but for trying to drop the knuckle down and off the strut, it helps to have the steering wheel turned a certain direction. So don't forget to give that a try when trying to get it that last inch.

Sometimes the fronts go easy, sometimes they fight you. Have fun!
Awesome. Thanks a bunch! Will report back when the job is complete to provide results and insight for those looking to perform this mod in the future.
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      04-08-2017, 10:29 AM   #288
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Just want to make sure I'm cutting these things correctly.

Looking down inside of the bumpstop, I see that the bottom inch or so is the only internal diameter that actually fits the shaft snugly. Assuming we definitely want to keep that portion.

My guess is that you probably want to keep the tapered step between the two sections as it may be functional in actually absorbing any "bumping." With that said, is this what I should remove?

Last edited by spoolinX1; 04-08-2017 at 10:42 AM..
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      04-08-2017, 10:48 AM   #289
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I think I just left off that whole part on the right. Haven't had a problem doing so that I can tell.
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      04-08-2017, 11:04 AM   #290
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I'm probably totally overthinking this, but would it make sense to eliminate the tapered section completely like this? The pieces seem like they would fit back together better if you trimmed it this way.

Last edited by spoolinX1; 04-08-2017 at 11:10 AM..
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      04-08-2017, 12:49 PM   #291
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Originally Posted by tony3series View Post
Hey I PM'd you about the H&R springs. How much do you want shipped to 48197?
When I installed my BCs, I pretty much followed the BavAuto spring install to a tee... Good luck!

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      04-11-2017, 08:30 AM   #292
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Completed my installation of Bilstein B6 Shocks / Struts with H&R springs. Some tips that I'd like to contribute while this installation is fresh in my mind.

All together, you're looking at about 8-9 hours of labor if you plan on tackling this job by yourself and it's your first time. If you have a buddy helping and tackle two sides at once, you can probably shave a couple hours off. I called two local shops before I took it on and they both quoted me $99 an hour, multiplied by what their systems showed as a 7-8 hour job. Plus $79 for alignment. One guy's actual response was, "Woah. That must be one hell of a job." I'd obviously rather spend the weekend with my wife and kid instead of working on my car, but at that price, there was no way I was paying to have someone else do it. I've lowered about a dozen (Mostly Japanese) vehicles in my life. On a difficultly level of 1-10, I'm giving this an solid 8 or 8.5 based on my prior experiences.

1. If you are going to cut your bump stops and own a Fein (or harbor freight equivalent) Oscillating tool, you're in luck. The wood cutting bit works perfectly. Was able to cut a perfectly square section out of all four stops with no effort.

2. Familiarize yourself with the central jacking points on your vehicle. There is one in the middle in the rear and one in the middle in the front. They were designed to lift half of your vehicle at a time.

3. Rears are very straight forward. Took me 2.5 hours, but I was completely dilly-dallying. Could shave an hour off of that now that I know the jacking points and how to remove the interior trim pieces. In the rear, I trimmed off just the lowest "Bump" of my factory bump stop. This allows you to reuse your factory dust boot because it also fits over the second "Bump" as well with a little bit of wiggling.

4. Fronts are a pain. Not going to lie. The link "D Unit" has posted above helped tremendously. It is about 95% accurate to our vehicles and is a perfect walk-through to follow along on. Passenger side is the hardest corner. That corner took me 4 hours, because I couldn't figure out for the life of me how to get the strut back in. Once I realized how to actually do it, it was smooth sailing. Driver's side took exactly 2 hours.

5. Put duct tape on your wheel well trim and part of your fender to protect it from scratches as you are wrestling components. I put like 4 or 5 layers and believe me, they were needed on the passenger front. I nicked almost all the way through the tape with one of the studs on the top of the strut assembly

6. If you are cutting your internal bump stops on your front struts, remember to put a couple dots of blue locktite on the threads of the bottom nut during reassembly so that it cannot vibrate back off. I cut mine in half, precisely at the narrowest portion in the middle of the seam where it tapers inward, then cut the lower portion perfectly in half. I discarded the middle section. Stacked the top part on top of the lower part and there was about an 1" or so removed.

7. When removing and reinstalling the front, be sure to turn your steering wheel. When you're working on the passenger side, turn the wheel all the way to the left. When working on the driver's side, turn the wheel all the way to the right. This allows you to tip the knuckle to give yourself a bit more play. It will be needed.

8. You don’t need to purchase a fancy knuckle spreader tool, but don’t try to use a pry bar as BAV Auto shows in their video either. (Their method is much more difficult than they're making it) For easiest and quickest method in spreading the knuckle, use a 3/8 to 1/4 socket adapter to pry open the knuckle. Works perfectly. Insert the ¼ side into the slot in the back of your knuckle. Give it a couple taps with a hammer to make sure it’s in all the way. Then rotate it 1/8 of a turn with your 3/8 inch rachet. This will open the knuckle up perfectly with plenty of room to remove the old strut and install the new one. I’ve done this in the past with VW’s and it has never failed me. Works perfect in this application as well. I didn't damage mine at all in this process, but you may want to purchase a donor from Harbor Freight to use for this job.



9. Place 2x4's underneath the rotor on in the front before you remove the three 13mm nuts that hold the strut to the strut tower. This is going to catch your suspension from crashing towards the ground when the last nut is removed. I didn't do this on the passenger side and was amazed at how quickly and far the entire assembly dropped to the floor. Instantly popped the CV shaft out of socket the moment it fell.

10. You will not be reusing the BMW front bump stop or dust boot since Bilstein has an internal bump stop and includes it's own dust boot. No one has mentioned this in the past, so I'm just stating the obvious.

11. To remove the front struts, loosen everything as indicated in the BAV auto video. You should be able to wiggle the strut directly upward and out of the dropped knuckle while applying downward pressure to the knuckle. Worse case scenario, you may have to use spring compressors on a couple coils of the original springs in order to gain enough clearance. I really think you can get by without doing this though if you have an extra set of hands or use your feet to push downward while you wiggle upward. BAV auto shows the assembly tipping outward and then pulling out of the knuckle. I wouldn’t recommend that approach. Not nearly as easy in our cars. I wasted 2 hours trying to remove and reinstall by tipping the assembly out of the wheel well instead of simply removing the strut from the knuckle vertically while inside the wheel well.

12. I am 100% convinced that it is NOT POSSIBLE to NOT pop the CV shaft out of socket on the passenger side. In other words, just prepare to experience this. I popped it out at least a dozen times while learning the correct approach. If you do pop the CV shaft out of socket (Much easier to do on the passenger side) don't worry about it at all. Not a big deal. Don't bang it into position. Just simply lift the lower knuckle assembly a little with your hands to generally line up the shaft and gently wiggle your rotor side to side until it works it's way back into socket. Not a big deal at all. Extremely easy to get back into socket. Believe me. You know when it's in and you know when it's out. I did not rip my boot at all. Driver's CV Shaft did not pop out of socket one time for me.

13. IMPORTANT: When you are assembling your new spring/strut assemblies, be sure to place a 1/2" Grade 8 lock washer under the nylon lock nut on top of each of the front strut assemblies. I battled an 18 month "POP" after installing my B6s with H&R springs once they settled. Eventually found that the B6 front struts have an unthreaded portion at the top of the strut that will not allow the nut to tighten down far enough if you are using a spring that is shorter than stock. You'll "Think" it's torque properly, but basically what's happening is you are simply running out of thread and are hitting the unthreaded portion of rod. The thickness of this 1/2" Lock washer will fill up that extra unthreaded portion to absorb the slack. Here's a photo to show what I am talking about. If you don't install this extra lock washer, you're taking a great chance that once things settle, you're going to have an 1/8" of slack in your assembly that cannot be tightened down, which will cause an annoying "POP" that you can not only hear, but also feel everytime you stop, go and travel over small bumps.



14. To reinstall the new strut assembly, bolt it up top to the strut tower first with all three 13 mm nuts. Tighten them loosely. Now use your jack to lift the knuckle up and onto the strut. This way you can be sure your CV shaft is properly in place. Very easy to do with the shortened strut assembly.

15. While you've got your jack holding the knuckle upward, this would be a great time to also tighten your control arms. This will eliminate unnecessary pre-load (twist) on your bushings. You will know you're at a good estimated ride height based on whether or not your sway bar link will bolt back to its hole perfectly straight or not. Especially if the opposite side of the car has it's wheel sitting on the ground or on boards. If it does, the sway bar already has tension and it's position would be a great indicator.

16. Have fun. Don't get yourself too worked up. Enjoy some frosty beverages as you go. If you're anything like me and have a pretty busy home life, I'd plan to do this over the course of maybe two or three days. I rode my bike to work for two days. Maybe the rear the first day to get your feet wet then tackle the front. Just keep in mind that the driver's side is a little easier than the passenger side (due to a shorter CV shaft I believe).

17. Your car is going to take weeks (if not months to fully settle). Go ahead and immediately get yourself an alignment. Won't hurt to have it done again in a year.

-Special thanks to PrematureApex, themishmosh and D Unit for assisting me personally.

EDIT: MOST IMPORTANT TIP Holy crap, I cannot express how important this tip is. It will cost you hours if you make the mistake I originally did when I installed my new setup. When you disassemble your upper strut mounts for the front of the car, between the bearing and the spring perch there will be two oddly shaped (Conical) washers. There a big one on the bottom with a smaller one stacked on top. IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that you put these back into the car facing the exact direction that they were when you pulled them out. Seriously, listen to me. The reason I'm saying this is because I installed one of them upside down and after 2.5 weeks, had to tear the front suspension back out of the car due to a "POP" everytime I'd get into the car and turn the steering wheel to the left or the right. Luckily, I vaguely remembered the orientation in which I installed these washers. I looked them up online and determined that I had installed one of them upside down. The washers are meant to pivot against each other like this )( The smaller faces of each ride against each other so they can turn as you turn the steering wheel. This means the flat faces of the washers face away from each other. If you set them up any other way - For example, any of these orientations )), ((, (), they're going to grip each other when you turn the steering wheel and cause your bearing to not allow the top hat to rotate freely. This will cause the spring to bind when you turn the steering wheel. You're going to hear and feel a brief pop as the two washers grip and grind away at each other. It'll drive you nuts. TLIDR: If the top of your strut mount doesn't spin side to side freely after you torque the strut nut, you most likely installed the washers improperly.

Here are some pictures of the washers and exact how they need to be reinstalled into the car:
View post on imgur.com

Last edited by spoolinX1; 08-09-2019 at 08:35 AM..
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      04-11-2017, 10:26 AM   #293
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Great write up! I think you hit all the big points/tips/etc.

First time is always a PITA, it gets "easier" at least from a time perspective after that.
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      04-11-2017, 04:49 PM   #294
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Just got a call from the local shop who normally does all of my work. They apparently can't align my car because BMW requires a weight balance (full tank of gas, weights in the seat and trunk) as well as some sort of module to plug into the electronic steering.


First I've ever heard of it. You guys experiencing this too?
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      04-11-2017, 05:54 PM   #295
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I plan to install B6's all around, no spring change. My plan is to do the rears myself, then take it to the shop for the fronts and alignment.
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      04-12-2017, 08:34 AM   #296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LevinBR View Post
I plan to install B6's all around, no spring change. My plan is to do the rears myself, then take it to the shop for the fronts and alignment.
Use this walk-through. You'll be golden. Set aside a few hours. Very straight forward and nothing can really go wrong.

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      04-12-2017, 09:25 AM   #297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolinX1 View Post
Just got a call from the local shop who normally does all of my work. They apparently can't align my car because BMW requires a weight balance (full tank of gas, weights in the seat and trunk) as well as some sort of module to plug into the electronic steering.


First I've ever heard of it. You guys experiencing this too?
Yeah, it's frustrating. I've had one shop align the car two years ago. Brought it back last year and suddenly they won't touch it.

There's nothing special about the car at all. Shop guys read something about "needing" to put extra weight in it, or some other "special" tools, and rather than thinking, they just balk at doing it. This is particularly true because the N55 X1 doesn't even have electronic steering. I'm telling the guy over the phone, no, any mention of the module is for the 2.0l. My car has a hydraulic rack and struts up front. Them: Nope, can't do it, sorry.

I'm just doing string alignments myself these days.
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      04-12-2017, 01:13 PM   #298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrematureApex View Post
Yeah, it's frustrating. I've had one shop align the car two years ago. Brought it back last year and suddenly they won't touch it.

There's nothing special about the car at all. Shop guys read something about "needing" to put extra weight in it, or some other "special" tools, and rather than thinking, they just balk at doing it. This is particularly true because the N55 X1 doesn't even have electronic steering. I'm telling the guy over the phone, no, any mention of the module is for the 2.0l. My car has a hydraulic rack and struts up front. Them: Nope, can't do it, sorry.

I'm just doing string alignments myself these days.
Yeah. I called around and explained exactly what you said. Even called BMW. They said that apparently 65kg of weight needs to be placed in the driver's seat, passenger seat, middle of the back seat, some weight in the trunk and also a full tank of gas is required to properly "Balance" the car. I said "What if I don't want you to balance it?" "You'd be wasting your money." "I drive alone 99% of the time. Maybe balance it with 180 lbs in the driver's seat?"

Ended up finding a shop last night who snickered at the balance thing. They were slow and told me to come right in. This is what they ended up coming up with. Looks like they didn't even attempt to adjust the camber (which doesn't seem to far out of spec anyway). Looks like they corrected toe and made a quick $80. I'm ok with that I suppose. Drives straight, no pulling. Tires sound normal. Handles appropriately in corners. I'm happy.

Let me know what you think of these results.

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      04-13-2017, 02:52 PM   #299
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Yeah, unless you pull (grind) the top-hat pins up front, camber isn't adjustable at all. But on these cars more (negative) is better anyway. I wish I could get closer to -2.5 up front. That 1 degree negative you're seeing is a result of the drop. Otherwise, it would be closer to zero. Such a crappy factory spec.

As you said, they probably didn't bother with the rear because you were so close, but again, some more negative is welcome anyway.

When I drop just about any of my cars off (the ones without plates), I max the front camber myself, and tell them to just "toe and go" and leave the front maxed.
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      09-03-2017, 03:31 PM   #300
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I'm currently running OEM M-Sport shocks/springs on factory 19s and the ride is a bit punishing. I swapped out the run flats for some non-RFTs and the ride improved slightly. Does anyone recommend a shock/strut kit to go with if I'm sticking with the OEM springs? This is my wife's car and she's not looking to lower it at all. I see a lot of people go with the B6 when lowering the car, but what about the B4 kit with OEM springs?
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      09-12-2017, 08:40 PM   #301
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B4's are well liked. They certain ride better than the monotube B6s. They will feel like most stock shocks/struts, perhaps 10% stiffer than stock. But as a whole, you can consider them an OE replacement at a fraction of the cost.
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      10-24-2017, 07:36 AM   #302
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M3 rear sway bar

Sorry to revive an old topic but I bought the M3 E93 23.6mm rear sway bar kit. I have the M3 bushings, kartboy endlinks and stock brackets. I had a local performance shop in Baltimore attempt the install but they weren't able to get the bar to line up properly with the wheel hub. They tried the kartboy and stock endlinks and both posed difficulty. In the picture the subframe is bolted but the control arm isn't linked yet. They manipulated a few things and said no matter what they couldn't get the hole of the bar to line up over the hole on the wheel hub for the endlinks to be verticle. Additionally, the bar itself rubbed on the wheel hub a bit even under load. This is an experienced shop and I trust them. Looks like a bunch of you were able to get the bar in with no real problems. Does anyone have any pictures? Thx.
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      12-06-2017, 10:46 AM   #303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BaltimoreBMW1 View Post
Sorry to revive an old topic but I bought the M3 E93 23.6mm rear sway bar kit. I have the M3 bushings, kartboy endlinks and stock brackets. I had a local performance shop in Baltimore attempt the install but they weren't able to get the bar to line up properly with the wheel hub. They tried the kartboy and stock endlinks and both posed difficulty. In the picture the subframe is bolted but the control arm isn't linked yet. They manipulated a few things and said no matter what they couldn't get the hole of the bar to line up over the hole on the wheel hub for the endlinks to be verticle. Additionally, the bar itself rubbed on the wheel hub a bit even under load. This is an experienced shop and I trust them. Looks like a bunch of you were able to get the bar in with no real problems. Does anyone have any pictures? Thx.
I saw that you sold the sway bar... Are you going to try again?
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      08-05-2018, 02:02 PM   #304
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Getting ready to have the HR sport springs and B6's done on my 35i. Any suggestions on appropriate wheel spacers with this setup? I am leaning towards 15 mm all around. Thanks.
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      07-24-2019, 12:48 PM   #305
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I am reviving my efforts to get the M3 rear bar installed next week. I picked up another one off ebay for cheap. Going with a different shop this time so hope there's no fitment issues again.
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      07-29-2019, 10:09 AM   #306
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Interested in how your re-install attempt goes @BmoreBimmerX1. I just bought a '15 35i model and I'm thinking about doing the sway bar. No lowering for me as I like the ground clearance - its nice to have in Colorado.

The stock (non-m sport) rear bar is 13mm, and the M3 swaybar is ~23mm (depending in which model). That is a HUGE increase in stiffness. I've upgraded subies from 15mm to 20mm and found great results from that - but this is an extra level of stiffness increase.

Can anyone here comment on the drive characteristics with an M3 swaybar on stock suspension?
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      08-01-2019, 06:41 PM   #307
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Appointment is next Friday...i will report back then. I am bringing them the 22.5mm (m3) and 15mm (m sport) bars in case m3 one doesn't work for them. The bars definitely appear very different. End links for e90 are also different than e84 but others say mounting points are the same.

Quote:
Originally Posted by abbike18 View Post
Interested in how your re-install attempt goes @BmoreBimmerX1. I just bought a '15 35i model and I'm thinking about doing the sway bar. No lowering for me as I like the ground clearance - its nice to have in Colorado.

The stock (non-m sport) rear bar is 13mm, and the M3 swaybar is ~23mm (depending in which model). That is a HUGE increase in stiffness. I've upgraded subies from 15mm to 20mm and found great results from that - but this is an extra level of stiffness increase.

Can anyone here comment on the drive characteristics with an M3 swaybar on stock suspension?
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      08-02-2019, 06:52 PM   #308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BmoreBimmerX1 View Post
Appointment is next Friday...i will report back then. I am bringing them the 22.5mm (m3) and 15mm (m sport) bars in case m3 one doesn't work for them. The bars definitely appear very different. End links for e90 are also different than e84 but others say mounting points are the same.
Keep us updated. I'm between those two bars right now. You are doing exactly what I wish I could with both of those!
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