08-02-2013, 08:29 PM | #45 |
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Away for 4 weeks. X1 parked with alarm on. When I came back from vacation, engine started right away. ASS kicked in after an hour of driving, presumably meaning the battery was then fully charged.
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08-02-2013, 08:44 PM | #46 |
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08-02-2013, 09:11 PM | #47 |
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08-03-2013, 02:32 AM | #49 | |
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He lives in your neck of the woods now, and after getting his license on the 19th try, drives (for lack of a better word) other cars:
Quote:
I liked Jeremy Clarkson's description of what he encountered: An Indian father was driving a car, with one son on the hood, pouring water into the radiator, and another son clinging to the front bumper, collecting said water as it dripped out of the radiator, passing it up to the top son. Last edited by Grovsnus; 08-03-2013 at 02:38 AM.. |
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03-26-2014, 07:33 PM | #50 |
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X1 Battery Issues
Just bought an X1 xdrive 35i and the dealer had to jump start it to get it off of the lot and explained it away that the Service guys left the doors open when they were cleaning it. I drove it 2 hours and it should have been charged. Then it sat for 2 weeks while I was out of town and when I got back to start it, it was totally dead. I had to have roadside assist come tow it to the closest BMW dealership. They told me that I left it running for 6 hours. I said certainly not, engine was off and key was out. It was in my garage so I didn't lock it. They said that the battery runs in background mode if you don't lock the car or hit the Stop engine button twice. Now that I read your blogs, I understand. I never would have bought the car if I knew this is what you have to do. Never had any car like this. I would think the computer would go into sleep mode after 10 minutes of the engine being off and not continue to drain the battery. Any suggestions?
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03-26-2014, 08:27 PM | #51 |
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Unhappily, it's the price for the technology we all want and desire...my 10-year-old, 95K Wrangler (which is on its second battery...) sat in an unheated garage all winter (it hadn't been run since my last trip down to camp), and it fired right up.
I've been known to put a trickle charger on it for insurance, but didn't this winter. Part of the explanation has to be that there is very little automated or high tech about the Wrangler... Moon |
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03-26-2014, 08:33 PM | #52 |
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Drives: 2011 e91
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I leave my car sit for two weeks at a time when I head up to work. I never push the button twice. I stop the engine and lock the doors. The car has never even hinted at a weak battery and I can guarantee it's much colder in Calgary than it is in South Carolina
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03-26-2014, 08:43 PM | #53 |
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I was out of town for 4 weeks and left mine in the garage unlocked. Everything's fine when I started the car the first time I got back. Nothing unusual to note of.
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03-26-2014, 11:25 PM | #54 |
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If you do not hit the START button twice, it still will go to sleep, but instead of doing it immediately, it takes about 10-minutes, or until you lock the door. If you have comfort access and the fob is nearby, the car can periodically wake up, preparing for you to be close enough and unlock or open the door.
Not all chargers are created equal...some of them can be left on indefinitely, and, while there is some controversy over this, IMHO, if you don't have a charger that has an AGM mode, I do not believe it will fully charge the battery. THen, while the cables back to the battery are pretty large gauge, without that higher voltage, it will also affect the max charge. Some places say there's no need for a different charger, but some say it takes 0.3-0.4VDC more to fully charge an AGM than a normal lead-acid battery. I know that the Bosch C7 charger I have, when you put it in AGM mode, switches the recharging max voltage from 14.4, to 14.7. Maybe those Germans know something... Very few things in modern BMWs are actually controlled with mechanical on/off switches. While they may look and act like a switch, instead of starting or stopping current via an internal switch, it is sending a signal to the computer, and something else, closer to it actually does the switching and this requires the computer to be awake, and the device(s) able to listen for their command to turn on or off. They all have low-power, sleep modes, but all it may take is one of them not shutting off and continuing to try to talk on the bus, which may wake up other things along the way. An example of this is the headlight switch panel...I changed mine to get the rear foglight functionality (the light was already in my car, just nothing to turn it on). The plug in the back of that switch panel has about 28g wires going in...obviously, not big enough to actually turn any lamp load on or off, plus there weren't enough of them for all of the individual functions it can control. There's a small chip in there, and it talks to the computer, and that directs something to actually switch power and turn the thing on or off. Same is true throughout the vehicle. All it takes is one of the boxes not shutting down, or your fob to be too close (maybe near max range is the worse, causing things to start, then waiting to go to sleep again, and repeating). Maybe we all need a shielded box to drop our fobs into while home. Because the fob is out of range when you say leave it parked at an airport for a vacation trip sort of supports these thoughts...it won't be getting tricked into waking up periodically until you actually return. The dealer has the equipment to test the standby current draw, and the computer can help in trying to see what may be on when it should be off. The idea about trying a fuse or two at a time should help to isolate it, but with the networked CANbus in these vehicles, I'm not sure that's fully true. |
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11-26-2014, 05:18 PM | #56 |
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For me, living in the frigid north with a garage that is not heated the battery will lose its charge faster than in a warmer climate. We're talking about a daily high that is below freezing. So, many variables to consider
I still haven't figured out how to attach a semi-permanent cable to the positive post under the hood so that I can run a cable out the front of the car.
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11-27-2014, 12:24 PM | #57 | |
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A fully charged battery left for 6 months will do better in the cold. I used to sell batteries, and had to adjust dead ones. Summer wears the batteries, and the cold finds the dead ones. Yes, in cold weather the battery won't give it's best amps, but warm it back up, and it's in good condition. I have a voltage gauge, so I can see charging pattern of my X1 s28i. It takes road trip of 400- 500 miles to fully charge battery, and since I live in apartment and can't plug my battery tender in, I just unhook neg cable and lock with valet key for a few months. |
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11-27-2014, 12:34 PM | #58 |
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I agree with you in that when a battery is not in use, it will slowly lose its charge as a result of leakage between the terminals. This chemical reaction is also temperature dependent, so unused batteries will lose their charge more slowly at cooler temperatures than at warmer temperatures.
But, in cold weather the boss will start up the car with the seatheaters on full, the heater going full, lights on and radio blasting to drive to the store a few blocks away. A few times a day of this and...
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01-28-2019, 01:58 PM | #59 | |
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Thank you |
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01-28-2019, 04:17 PM | #60 |
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Sorry but I can’t remember what they did to find that it was the drain on the battery. I wouldn’t recommend ripping your radio out. Not being an engineer or electrician I assume using a multimeter but its way beyond my skill level. My only knowledge is from watching Apollo 13 on tv when they had to get the ship back with basically no amps. Seriously, google it on line and there are some directions on how to track it down using a multimeter.
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02-09-2019, 04:10 PM | #61 |
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If I am not going to drive my car for two or three weeks I put it on a trickle charger Personally I would not store a car for more than 30 days without and giving it a quick drive around block
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