07-30-2016, 02:48 PM | #265 |
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Just a quick update. It's been about 6 weeks, there's been some settling - the total drop now is just over an inch. The ride is great - any bouncing I experienced going over bridge seams has diminished. The car is very stable and steady in turns, curves, rapid lane changes. I feel it's not just made the X1 more fun, but also a good deal safer. On the fun side, maneuvers where before I felt the vehicle was the limit to what I could do, I now feel that my skill and courage (as well as my interest in not straying too far beyond the rule of law) are the limiters.
Here's a current pic, 225/45s on stock 18" wheels. Last edited by Ja Gio; 07-31-2016 at 01:03 PM.. |
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08-04-2016, 04:06 PM | #266 |
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If funny. Debadged, lowered, with non-stock rims, the X1 is almost unrecognizable. I have had countless enthusiasts come up to me and ask what car I'm driving. LOL.
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09-21-2016, 10:38 AM | #267 |
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Hats off to PrematureApex... this was a very informative thread. I even enjoyed the banter back and forth in the beginning which was packed full of insight IMO.
Anyways, I thought I was set on KW1s, but they don't offer them for the x1 RWD. What option would you guys choose for a daily s28i? 1) BC Coilovers (7k front 11k rear) equals (400lbs front, 625lbs rear) 2) BC Coilovers with custom spring rates? 5K front 6K rear? Suggestions? 3) Bilstein B6 with H&Rs? 4) Bilstein B6 with Eibachs (B12 kit)? Even though the B12 kit is the cheapest, I almost want to rule it out since I believe the H&Rs are a tad bit lower. I think the standard BC coilovers might be sufficient, but would it be worth it to experiment with a softer spring rate? |
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10-04-2016, 05:19 PM | #268 |
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Bilstein Struts with Stock Springs
Does anyone have any experience with replacing stock struts with Bilstein B6's and keeping the stock springs?
Does anyone see any potential issues with that? I am interested in having a sportier, stiffer feel while maintaining my (stock) ride height. |
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10-04-2016, 07:30 PM | #269 | ||
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Quote:
You could always go softer on the springs and rely on bigger swaybars to up your roll stiffness if you're not quite satisfied. Quote:
The H&R springs are not a dramatic departure from stock when speaking in terms of spring rates. So you'll still see a nice bump in handling from the B6s only.
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'08 N54 135 (JB4, DCI, BMW PS/Bilstein B6s, H&R M3 FSB, Strongflex FCABs) '14 N55 X1 (JB4, BMS DP, BMS Intake, Alpina TCU reflash, H&R Sports, Bilstein B6s, E93 M3 RSB, Strongflex FCABs, baby seat) '08 N54 535xi touring (Bilstein B6s, Downpipes, MHD tune, baby seat) Last edited by PrematureApex; 10-05-2016 at 05:37 AM.. |
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12-05-2016, 04:39 PM | #270 |
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Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread with their technical knowledge and/or experience. Special hats off to PrematureApex!
After having to cancel my order with TireRack for the Bilstein B12 kit (kit wasn't in stock anywhere, was special order from Bilstein Germany, no vendor I contacted would even attempt to give me an eta). I just put in my order for the H&R Spings, Bilstein HDs, and E85 bump stops following reading this thread in its entirety. I understand now that I may still have a bit of a wait for the shocks, particularly the fronts. However, I'm happier now knowing that I'll get H&R over Eibach springs and that I saved over $170 compared to my original order through TR by sourcing the components individually. Can't wait until it all arrives and I can get them installed. I've had my MY15 Sdrive28i MSport for 1 year and half now and can no longer tolerate that massive wheel gap (though I think I put up a good fight holding out as long as I did!). Lastly, were the front fender M badges on the M Sports only for certain years? Mine is a '15 and doesn't have them (not that I care either way), just seems curious that that would get revised...cost savings perhaps. |
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12-07-2016, 12:05 PM | #271 |
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At least for the xdrives, despite the fronts being special order, they came quickly. Hopefully you'll experience the same.
Regarding the badges, I'd have to check on the dates, but it was only a small time frame where they were added to the MSports, not even a full MY IIRC. This is the part number, I think... 51148058881 At $40 bucks a badge (you've got to be kidding me), might be better to go with knock-offs if you decide to add them.
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'08 N54 135 (JB4, DCI, BMW PS/Bilstein B6s, H&R M3 FSB, Strongflex FCABs) '14 N55 X1 (JB4, BMS DP, BMS Intake, Alpina TCU reflash, H&R Sports, Bilstein B6s, E93 M3 RSB, Strongflex FCABs, baby seat) '08 N54 535xi touring (Bilstein B6s, Downpipes, MHD tune, baby seat) |
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01-06-2017, 10:57 AM | #273 |
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You have H&R springs?
I'd just trim the rears. The real question you have to ask is, are you going to trim the front "internal" stops?
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'02 S54 M3 (500/500 GC/Koni)
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01-06-2017, 12:55 PM | #275 |
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Describe what she's tired of...
I did, but I have no idea if they'd bottom out without trimming. I just didn't want to chance it and have to do it twice. I can only imagine most guys on here who bought HDs didn't. So if they're not having issues, perhaps don't worry about it.
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'02 S54 M3 (500/500 GC/Koni)
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01-06-2017, 02:08 PM | #276 |
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New owner here, bought my new/used car a few weeks ago. I tried to read all i could regarding lowering the car and ended up going with H&R springs with Bilstein B6s all round. Here is a before and an immediately after shot. Next to do are wheel spacers. I know I'm going to have to see how things settle but does anyone have any input on how big (thick?) I can go? BTW, I love the improvement of the springs/shocks over the m sport suspension.
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01-06-2017, 03:58 PM | #279 |
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You would be about flush with the top of the fender to the rim with a 20mm up front. About 25-30mm for the rear for flush as well. I'd be worried about your tires eating your fender with that much flush though.
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01-06-2017, 04:58 PM | #280 |
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I run 15 all around...nice improvement in looks.
Love the car BTW! Congrats. We were at the table, check in hand, to pull the trigger on a VO 35, but walked when they tried to get around the CPO when the ad listed it was Certified Pre-Owned. Love that color.
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'02 S54 M3 (500/500 GC/Koni)
'08 N54 135 (JB4, DCI, BMW PS/Bilstein B6s, H&R M3 FSB, Strongflex FCABs) '14 N55 X1 (JB4, BMS DP, BMS Intake, Alpina TCU reflash, H&R Sports, Bilstein B6s, E93 M3 RSB, Strongflex FCABs, baby seat) '08 N54 535xi touring (Bilstein B6s, Downpipes, MHD tune, baby seat) |
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01-09-2017, 09:54 AM | #281 |
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Thanks. I just placed my order for spacers.
After seeing a VO 35 at my local dealer, I became focused on getting one. Unfortunately that car was pretty bare bones and I wanted one with most options so I was on a hunt for a number of months. Finally found one that had just about everything....but was a 28. I convinced myself that since it was my commuter car it would be fine, especially replacing my cooper works mini clubman. Sometimes i wished i had the bigger engine but for the most part I am really happy with the car. |
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03-04-2017, 01:08 AM | #282 |
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Just a heads-up for anyone who's interested. AJUSA has the B12 kit on sale right now for $699 shipped! (Comes with the Eibachs and valve matched Bilsteins). Also if you use the promo code BILKITMAR at check out you get an extra $15 off. Total price shipped $684.79. I searched all over for the best deal. I was almost going to buy the H&R's and the Bilsteins separate. But I could not pass up this deal!
Thanks for the awesome posts and info you guys. Love having these forums as a guide. Can anyone post more pics of the b12 Eibach kit, and or the H&R's with Bilsteins after settling? I've searched quit a bit but it seems like not everyone says exactly what they are running (stock shocks Vs. aftermarket. How long the springs have settled etc.) I'm still trying to decide if I'm going to buy the H&R's or use the Eibach springs. Seems like from what I've read the H&R's sit a little lower. I can't decide how low I want to go or if it's worth it to buy the H&R's. |
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03-04-2017, 10:54 AM | #283 | |
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Quote:
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03-06-2017, 07:19 PM | #284 |
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04-05-2017, 01:01 PM | #285 |
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My B6's finally arrived from Germany this week after waiting 2 months.
About to install a B6 / H&R combo this weekend. I've extensively read through the posts and think I'll be able to tackle this myself based on the helpful tips you guys have shared. (I've lowered about a dozen Japanese cars in the past and one VW Jetta) I'll be trimming the front interior Bilstein bump stops and also my factory rear bump stop as you guys have recommended. Seems like that has worked well for everyone. I've got a spreader tool to open up the knuckle, a compressor with impact gun and spring compressors. Just one question. Have we decided yet which is the absolute best method for pulling the factory front struts out without popping the shaft out of socket? Or is that not even a possibility? I'm a bit nervous about this. So far, I've heard of three methods: 1. Dropping the knuckle off of the bottom of the strut while it's still bolted to the car at the top. This will allow you to drop the strut downward and out. 2. Attempting to compress the front spring while still on the car. This will allow you to potentially clear the wheel well and swing out from the top. 3. Dropping the knuckle off the bottom of the strut AND compressing the springs while still bolted in. This makes the most sense from a clearance perspective, as you are not only shortening the length of the entire assembly, but also allowing extra clearance at the bottom. As PrematureApex mentions, this may introduce the greatest chance of popping the CV joint out. (edited to add third option) Just wondering if we've determined the absolute best approach yet. Last edited by spoolinX1; 04-06-2017 at 01:22 PM.. |
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04-06-2017, 07:50 AM | #286 |
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You may get lucky and be able to drop it out with just number 1 (I was able to on one side, not the other).
The third way (and the way I did it I think, is to do #1 AND use the spring compressors to shorten up the assembly. Yes, it's a bitch to reach up there to turn them with the struts bolted in, but it's possible. IIRC, I was more likely to pop the CV joints out rotating the knuckle too much doing #3. And don't worry too much about the CV's popping out. You'll know it when it happens. Just line up the axle and smack the end with a BFH (and a piece of wood). It will pop back in without much trouble. Oh, big tip: I forget which way, but for trying to drop the knuckle down and off the strut, it helps to have the steering wheel turned a certain direction. So don't forget to give that a try when trying to get it that last inch. Sometimes the fronts go easy, sometimes they fight you. Have fun!
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'02 S54 M3 (500/500 GC/Koni)
'08 N54 135 (JB4, DCI, BMW PS/Bilstein B6s, H&R M3 FSB, Strongflex FCABs) '14 N55 X1 (JB4, BMS DP, BMS Intake, Alpina TCU reflash, H&R Sports, Bilstein B6s, E93 M3 RSB, Strongflex FCABs, baby seat) '08 N54 535xi touring (Bilstein B6s, Downpipes, MHD tune, baby seat) |
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