Quote:
Originally Posted by nZtiZia
i just didn't know if the product would behave differently on ceramic coated matte ppf versus ceramic coated matte paint
gyeon is pretty good. still getting excellent water beading 14 months after initial application
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Sure - just pointing out that the whole point of ceramic is to resist chemical & road film damage so it should be pretty impervious to just about anything, at least for awhile, even including harsher chemicals like Iron Removers, APCs, highly alkaline cleaners, acidic stuff like pollen & bird poo, etc thus a mild cleaner that removes dirt should be like a gnat on an elephant to a good ceramic.
I've seen people who thought their ceramic was failing because it no longer was beading water only to find out they just weren't cleaning off the road film with strong enough chemicals, i.e., they were using pH neutral shampoos
The thing with pH neutral shampoos is, they're good at lubrication like any soap, but they don't chemically clean at all, meaning they don't & won't emulsify road film because it's a mix of oil / hydrocarbons that repels water. So what happens is, the soap cleans the dirt out of the road film making it invisible, but otherwise just smears it all over your car making it appear your protection has failed when it hasn't ... especially for vehicles that drive in rain and/or snow a lot.
It's pretty easy to "recharge" ceramic by using increasing mixtures of an alkaline cleaner to remove the road film.
Some ceramic makers claim the only way to make it fail is to buff it off, but I've never found that to be true if you really hit it with, say, a tar remover 5x in a row. Eventually, with the right chemicals, you can kill a ceramic, but if it's a remotely decent product it's pretty hard.
I'd feel pretty safe using Road Warrior 4:1 as an example, but if you're worried you could go 10:1.
Net-net:
It usually is, and should be pretty hard to kill ceramic ... which is why, in general, I don't use it!