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      03-17-2013, 04:55 PM   #1
conceyted
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Ran my Bike into the Carport today. :(

So I had a very early morning which consisted of waking up and going to pick up a friend to do a 75 mile charity ride on our road bikes. I woke up for 4am, got ready, packed the car, and then backed the car out and put my bike on top. I made it to my friend's place only to find he had contracted the flu within the last 3 hours. Conflicted, I decided to call it off and just head home. I was distracted by the fact that I would not be riding, by the fact that I was up at 4AM for nothing, and the fact that I was ready to get back into bed. As I got home I pulled slowly into my driveway and up into the carport as I normally do. Except I forgot one thing... my bike!

It reminded me. After fairly loud rub along with a couple scraping noises and I realized what I had done. I got out and looked on top my car and began feeling nausea set in. My bike is full carbon, and has an internal seatpost. I was positive that the frame was toast. My first worry, however, wasnt the bike but my car. I looked at the car, and the oem roof racks had detached in every place except for one leg. It had also pulled itself back along the roof rails and I had some nice long gouges from the metal clamps of the oem roof rails breaking through its rubber protectors and dragging along as the bike held strong to the carport. At the end of the car there was the back food of the cross bars. It had found a nice spot to land right on top of the hatch spoiler. I have three nice sized dents/creases where it hit. The roof was unscathed! I backed up and took everything down, assessed all the rest of the damages, and this is my damage list.

- OEM Cross Bar has about 3-5 parts bent.
I cannot find parts for them, however, so it appears I will have to spend the full price on a new set. Might try contacting BMW first. I also might just get rid of them completely to avoid this from ever happening agian
- Roof rails on both sides have some deep metal gouges in them.
This probably could be buffed down and painted, but chances are I will replace them. Maybe this will give me the opportunity to go with black gloss roof rails (normally found on m-sport) to match my sport package a little better
- Hatch spoiler needs replacing and repainting.
I am pretty nervous about this. Upon close inspection, the hatch and spoiler appear to be one. If that is the case I have to wonder how it can be replaced. Also my car is mineral white metallic, and white cars and notorious for being hard to match. Add metallic on top of that and I am fearing the worst.
- Bike is fine?!

Sorry for the long post. I can get some pics if anyone is interested. I have felt sick all day long from this and am hoping sharing my story and talking to some of you will get some of this guilt off of my chest.

Anyone have a link to 2013 roof rails? How about the hatch parts?
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Last edited by conceyted; 03-17-2013 at 05:38 PM.
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      03-17-2013, 05:07 PM   #2
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Sorry to hear about the damage. Thank you for sharing your story. I've had one close call in parking garage, it's easy to forget how high a bike is when on a car.
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      03-17-2013, 07:31 PM   #3
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Ugh, much sympathy...
The bike is fine? Absorbed the impact and transferred it to the rack/rails? Freaking carbon fiber!
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      03-17-2013, 07:50 PM   #4
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Ugh, much sympathy...
The bike is fine? Absorbed the impact and transferred it to the rack/rails? Freaking carbon fiber!
Yea! Can you believe it? It literally transferred enough force to the racks to BEND the 1/8" steel brackets open enough to drag it along the rails and in some places pull it off completely.

Thanks for the sympathy. Hopefully a couple grand can make it as good as new again.
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      03-17-2013, 10:51 PM   #5
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"Is your car up a tree again, Jerry?"
This is one of the times it pays to have decent insurance, I'm afraid.
It certainly looks like too much damage to be covered by the copay and insurance premium hike, not counting damage to the bike and garage.

Ouch, and my sympathies.
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      03-18-2013, 06:43 AM   #6
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Sorry about your accident, roof rack ones are never fun. Please be exceedingly careful if you have any carbon bits on the frame, fork, bar, stem, wheels, etc. They can look okay, but be terminally damaged. Play it safe.
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      03-18-2013, 04:40 PM   #7
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Sorry to hear of your mishap. Not looking to add to your woes, but having had a look t realoem I think you're right about the roof spoiler being part of the rear hatch itself.
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      03-18-2013, 04:53 PM   #8
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Yep, and a $500 part before you get into retrofitting all of your trim pieces or painting it. This is one time I could actually see justifying bondo and a non blended respray, provided a PDF guy can't get it all the way out. I'd be almost certain that a decent airbrush person could make the roof rail damage disappear.
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      03-18-2013, 07:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Yep, and a $500 part before you get into retrofitting all of your trim pieces or painting it. This is one time I could actually see justifying bondo and a non blended respray, provided a PDF guy can't get it all the way out. I'd be almost certain that a decent airbrush person could make the roof rail damage disappear.
Well, I took it into a body shop today. The estimate they gave is $1483 which includes REPAIR of the lift gate spoiler. They also quoted me a price for complete replacement of the lift gate, which was $2600 total. The price includes two roof rails, and all labor paint and body work. The second price includes all of the above plus a new lift gate.

Not sure which one I should go with? Insurance is a $500 dollar deductible if I go that route, and either way I don't mind spending the money if it is done right. They said in both cases they can make it look like new.

Any suggestions?
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      03-18-2013, 07:55 PM   #10
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Sorry to hear of your mishap. Not looking to add to your woes, but having had a look t realoem I think you're right about the roof spoiler being part of the rear hatch itself.
Yep, the girl at the shop looked in their computer (probably something identical to realoem) and was shocked that she couldn't order the spoiler. The lift gate is all one piece. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...61&hg=41&fg=60
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      03-19-2013, 09:28 AM   #11
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I'd probably keep the OE part, the numbers will match (not that it really matters) and there's less disassembly required, reducing the chance of annoying rattles and alignment issues. Like I said above, I'd strongly suggest they don't blend the paint into surrounding areas. I'd rather have the repair be slightly visible than have a bunch of extra paint on the roof and rear quarter panels that would be very easy to detect with a paint thickness gauge. Plus I'm assuming you have Alpine White, a single stage paint, not Mineral White, a metallic paint, which would be more visible as a non blended respray.

If your deductible is $500, I'd also ask the body shop if they'd cut you a little slack for cash and a non blended repair and just pay it out of pocket, you never know when you might actually need your insurance and previous claims tend to make your rates go up faster than if you have a clean history.

Finally, I suggest my (to date) flawless method of not ramming the garage with bicycles. I always leave a folding chair or cooler in the area my car occupies when I leave with a bike on the roof. That way when I get home, even if I'm totally knackered, I can't just attempt to pull into the garage.
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      03-19-2013, 09:41 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Bread View Post
I'd probably keep the OE part, the numbers will match (not that it really matters) and there's less disassembly required, reducing the chance of annoying rattles and alignment issues. Like I said above, I'd strongly suggest they don't blend the paint into surrounding areas. I'd rather have the repair be slightly visible than have a bunch of extra paint on the roof and rear quarter panels that would be very easy to detect with a paint thickness gauge. Plus I'm assuming you have Alpine White, a single stage paint, not Mineral White, a metallic paint, which would be more visible as a non blended respray.

If your deductible is $500, I'd also ask the body shop if they'd cut you a little slack for cash and a non blended repair and just pay it out of pocket, you never know when you might actually need your insurance and previous claims tend to make your rates go up faster than if you have a clean history.

Finally, I suggest my (to date) flawless method of not ramming the garage with bicycles. I always leave a folding chair or cooler in the area my car occupies when I leave with a bike on the roof. That way when I get home, even if I'm totally knackered, I can't just attempt to pull into the garage.
I have Mineral White Metallic. I appreciate the thoughts on blending. I like the idea of keeping the original part mostly for alignment purposes. I am pretty OCD about things so having the gaps around the lift gate be off would drive me insane. I may talk with the people at the body shop and express all of my concerns and ask them to fix it whatever way they can guarantee repair 100% and keep the gaps identical.

My only fear of repair is the use of body filler and the curve that the body panel makes around the area of the dent. I have never attempted to work with sheet metal and been successful at it, so I really have no idea how a repair of this panel would even happen.
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      03-19-2013, 12:10 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conceyted View Post
My only fear of repair is the use of body filler and the curve that the body panel makes around the area of the dent. I have never attempted to work with sheet metal and been successful at it, so I really have no idea how a repair of this panel would even happen.
I'd opt for them to repair the top of the lift gate. Have them do the body work on the gate first and as soon as it ready for finish paint, go have a look at it. If they didn't get it right, you can ask that they try again or(worse case) replace the whole gate. It doesn't appear to be anything difficult. They should be able to get it right the first time, IMO.
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      03-19-2013, 12:11 PM   #14
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I'd opt for them to repair the top of the lift gate. Have them do the body work on the gate first and as soon as it ready for finish paint, go have a look at it. If they didn't get it right, you can ask that they try again or(worse case) replace the whole gate. It doesn't appear to be anything difficult. They should be able to get it right the first time, IMO.
Great advice. Leaning to do this about 95%.
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      03-19-2013, 03:53 PM   #15
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personally I'd go for a repair of the tailgate. Prepare yourself though, there's no way they will fix it on the vehicle so it will be removed and you will have the risk of the realignment issues which spook you.
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