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      06-29-2014, 07:27 PM   #1
themishmosh
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H&R Spring install - sometime things don't go your way!

so I started the spring install on my 35i M-sport this morning. Figured it would take 3-5 hours. Did the fronts first and then the back. Backs were cake. Front, not so much. First I tried taking the strut assembly out as a whole without compressing. I got nowhere with that as it just would not release at the base even after loosening the bolt and trying to spread the slot with a screwdriver. So I turn to the spring compression method and then tilting the strut outward. I guess I tilted it a little too much because for some reason, I could not tilt it back. I look at the inner CV boot and it is bulging. I have worked on Japanese makes until now and never had I had the joint come all the way out by turning out the knuckle! I jiggle it a little and manage to get it in.

After the install was done, I go for a test drive. I immediately know something is wrong as I can feel vibration as I'm backing out and then later, with acceleration. I know I must have fubar'd the CV joint.

I go back to the garage, once again turning the strut out--although this time manage to get it out without compressing it. I remove the inner CV boot clamp. Lo and behold, floating in the grease is one of the three bearings!!! Luckily, I hammer it back on and add a little grease and then use a universal boot clamp on it. Test drive later was grand. H&R is everything I had hoped for. Looks good, rides excellent and handles well.

So for those diy'ers out there, watch out for your CV joints!!! While I"m at it, whats the deal with the rear sway bar end links. On one side is the nut, on the other is a round smooth surface that is hard to clamp. Eventually I saw that the threaded end has a torx on the end but it's hard to access--not enough room!

Already I hate working on BMWs...
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      06-29-2014, 10:04 PM   #2
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This happened to me also. The dealer installed my ACS springs and they broke my left CV. They "fixed" it and sent it out. Turns out they forgot properly clamp the boot so I ended up flinging grease all over my engine. Brought it in and they repaired it no questions asked.
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      06-30-2014, 04:07 AM   #3
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Normally I would install my own springs but after reading this I'll probably just hand it off to a garage that can also do the alignment.
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      06-30-2014, 01:45 PM   #4
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The lower mounts on the struts seem to be the biggest issue. even the dealer had a problem with mine and I had less than 1000 kms on the car at the time.
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      06-30-2014, 07:32 PM   #5
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Thanks Twix. I don't feel so bad if the pros have done it. At least I managed to get it corrected although at the time, I was totalling thinking I REALLY messed up this time and to a brand new car that I just got less than a week ago!

At this point, no way am I going to consider doing any rear sway bar or exhaust mods. I'm going to finish up my tinting of the rear side windows and think about jb4, B3 Alpina flash and nothing more!
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      07-01-2014, 08:59 AM   #6
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If you want extra power and no hassles, do DINAN. Much more expensive, but it's factory warranted through a DINAN authorized dealer.

I hear B3 is a really great flash for that transmission, changes it completely.

The rear sway bar shouldn't be too bad at all compared to the front springs, much less stuff you have to deal with.
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      07-01-2014, 04:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twix View Post
If you want extra power and no hassles, do DINAN. Much more expensive, but it's factory warranted through a DINAN authorized dealer.

I hear B3 is a really great flash for that transmission, changes it completely.

The rear sway bar shouldn't be too bad at all compared to the front springs, much less stuff you have to deal with.
Problem is, there is no Dinan dealer near me.

Re: sway bar. Our stock rears are tiny! Very surprised. The sway bar end links are even worse--poly, not metal. I think if you did upgrade to the M3 bar, you would need new upgraded end links.
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      07-01-2014, 05:55 PM   #8
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Check out Paradoxial. He's doing the swap right now
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      07-03-2014, 10:55 AM   #9
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Got an alignment at the dealer today. Said that the front camber has no adjustment. Not bad anyways.

The drop definitely makes the 19" wheels look much better. As I said before, I love the ride. Still doesn't corner like a car but it is nice and firm without being harsh.
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      07-03-2014, 07:27 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themishmosh View Post




Got an alignment at the dealer today. Said that the front camber has no adjustment. Not bad anyways.

The drop definitely makes the 19" wheels look much better. As I said before, I love the ride. Still doesn't corner like a car but it is nice and firm without being harsh.
Lookin good with Wheels/H&R Spring Combo.
Thanks for Info./ Comments on installation, including Twix ones.
Will take with me for understanding with a chosen Installer. Everything helps.
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      07-03-2014, 07:52 PM   #11
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I think if I had this kind of spreader tool, I could have taken out the strut without having to turn it out and completely avoid overextending the cv joint.



And check out this thread:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=635166

Last edited by themishmosh; 07-03-2014 at 08:25 PM.
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      12-31-2014, 11:05 PM   #12
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I just received HR springs this week. I am considering doing the job myself. This is the first time working on springs; is there any useful manuals or guides I can use to do the job?

Thanks - Lu
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      01-02-2015, 11:23 PM   #13
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It's pretty straight forward, just watch the CV boots on the front end. A couple of us have had tears after installing lowering springs. It's not a spring related tear, but one that happens while removing or installing the new front springs. I'd recommend having a shop do it, that way they can slide it onto the alignment rack right away.
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      01-04-2015, 04:37 PM   #14
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      07-23-2015, 07:47 PM   #15
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It's pretty much impossible as far as I can tell to pivot the knuckle without the inner CV pulling out of the cup.

The question is, does it pop back in with either a good push, or a couple smacks on the axle nut with a sledge, without losing a bearing or two.

Luckily, mine popped back in without issue, but both sides definitely pulled out getting the strut out.
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      10-22-2016, 08:28 PM   #16
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You guys think this tool will do the trick?

2 pc set for spring strut clamp 5.0 x 7.0 mm and 5.5 x 8.2mm
For spreading spring strut clamps on VAG VW BMW Citroen Ford


I just installed h&r springs on my wife's f30 yesterday and I had to use a ghetto flat screw driver + vice grips that worked beautifully. On the f30, I spread the clamp, tilted the strut assembly out of the fender well and twisted it until it came out.

Are you guys saying this method will not work on the x1? Instead, would it work better to leave the top tower bolts connected, spread the knuckle, mallet the stut assembly off the bottom, then remove the top bolts?
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      10-23-2016, 08:15 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D Unit View Post
You guys think this tool will do the trick?

2 pc set for spring strut clamp 5.0 x 7.0 mm and 5.5 x 8.2mm
For spreading spring strut clamps on VAG VW BMW Citroen Ford


I just installed h&r springs on my wife's f30 yesterday and I had to use a ghetto flat screw driver + vice grips that worked beautifully. On the f30, I spread the clamp, tilted the strut assembly out of the fender well and twisted it until it came out.

Are you guys saying this method will not work on the x1? Instead, would it work better to leave the top tower bolts connected, spread the knuckle, mallet the stut assembly off the bottom, then remove the top bolts?
Posted in your other thread...you will not be able to tip the top of the strut out from under the fender. Best bet is to drop the knuckle off of the bottom of the strut with it still installed. Detach sway and loosen inboard CA bolts to allow the knuckle to drop.
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      10-29-2016, 07:49 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrematureApex View Post
Posted in your other thread...you will not be able to tip the top of the strut out from under the fender. Best bet is to drop the knuckle off of the bottom of the strut with it still installed. Detach sway and loosen inboard CA bolts to allow the knuckle to drop.
When I did just the springs, I did tilt the whole strut assembly out... But you have to compress the springs while in the wheel well. The second time I did it...I forget what I did when I changed the strut... Just glad I didn't have trouble and don't have to do it ever again!
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      10-31-2016, 08:20 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themishmosh View Post
When I did just the springs, I did tilt the whole strut assembly out... But you have to compress the springs while in the wheel well. The second time I did it...I forget what I did when I changed the strut... Just glad I didn't have trouble and don't have to do it ever again!
Yup, I mentioned in the other thread that he could use compressors on the car and attempt to shorten it up to tip it out. But IMHO, using the spring compressors on the car is a PITA vs. dropping the knuckle off of the bottom. I'd try off the bottom first and hopefully save yourself some time, and use the compressors as a backup strategy.
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