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      11-07-2014, 12:40 PM   #23
zeevette
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shredjim View Post
Sounds like diesels come with a dipstick? Maybe the other countrys get them, but here in the US the 28i's don't have dipsticks. The oil level gauge is electronic. I miss having a temperature gauge more.
Same with the 35i. Removing owner service abilities are just a business decision.
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      11-07-2014, 01:12 PM   #24
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Page 72 of the Owner's manual shows a gauge and:

Quote:
Engine oil temperature
▷ Cold engine: the pointer is at the low temperature
end. Drive at moderate engine
and vehicle speeds.
▷ Normal operating temperature: the pointer
is in the middle or in the right half of the
temperature display.
▷ Hot engine: the pointer is at the high temperature
end. Switch off the engine immediately
and allow it to cool down.
If the engine oil temperature is too high, a message
appears on the Control Display.
The coolant level is on Page 246:
Quote:
The filling level indicator 1 in the filler neck
indicates the coolant level. The coolant
level is correct if it is between the arrows of
the respective reservoir
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      11-08-2014, 01:21 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTony View Post
Of all the oil change forums I've seen when they say drain oil, presumably on level surface or ramps etc.
Stupid or not my Questions are.
1) Via Dipstick, how is the best way to check oil, presume level surface.
A. Engine cold.
B. Engine warm or hot.
2) What is the 1'st thing done.
A. Do you just change the oil when cold, OR
B. Do you warm the engine up 1'st. I realize that if you use ramps that oil will be mixed through and warm. Do you warm it up a bit more or wait for it to cool on ramp before changing.
The above Questions might be funny to some but I want to make sure I drain the Maximum amount of oil.
Don't be to hard on me Guy's.
As promised the engine oil service instructions for N47 is attached.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf N47-1100_Engine Oil Service.pdf (643.8 KB, 2724 views)
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      11-10-2014, 02:08 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0w40X1 View Post
GTony,

Drive your car on to ramps after engine is warmed up, but wait 30-60 minutes so you don't burn your hand.

While oil drains change oil filter if you can reach.

Pour in recommended amount, and check that about that much came out.

Move car off ramp, and recheck dipstick hot or cold.

Next time it's cold before starting recheck dipstick to confirm oil level.
Thanks for putting those simple steps in order. Everything helps.
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      11-10-2014, 02:22 PM   #27
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Hi d1saster,
Many thanks for going to the trouble to answer my concerns.
Like I said to Ow40X1, everything helps. Will add that to my little Service Book I am creating. Much Appreciated.
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      01-11-2015, 12:02 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redsoxx1918
My first three BMWs had a 15000 service interval for oil and filter change. My 2013 X1 was set for 13000 miles. My 2015 X1 is set for 10000 miles. When I hit 700 miles, it dropped to 9000 miles. I guess BMW is figuring out that these new turbo engines need more frequent oil changes.
I wouldn't go more than 5k miles between changes on an engine with forced induction if you plan on keeping it past the warranty.
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      01-12-2015, 05:56 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skychismo View Post
I wouldn't go more than 5k miles between changes on an engine with forced induction if you plan on keeping it past the warranty.
Correct way IMHO is to grab a sample and trend it. If the oil you are using and your driving conditions are conducive to it, extended OCI's are perfectly OK for street cars. I did this with my past two and ran 250K combined with 7500m OCIs, no issues.

The biggest thing I could be concerned about is shear: is the oil staying in grade if using a 30w (standard BMW fill: other LL01 oils like M1 0/40, GC 0/30 etc...can perform better).

Engines and oils are far more stout then we give them credit for these days, and there is 7qt in the N55 sump

This is my first N55, only had it a month so far. Still 30K left on the factory maintenance. Personally I would sample at 7500 and see how the shear is, and perhaps drain/fill to begin a bit of a trending before going all in at 10K+ OCIs.

- b
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      01-12-2015, 07:13 AM   #30
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A good source for analysis (at least for me) has been Blackstone Laboratories

Non-attribution policy in affect as I have no affiliation, just good service.

But, caveat, I'm not sure how I'm going to get samples as I plan on having the oil changed by the dealer, et al.
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      01-12-2015, 09:30 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NumberSix View Post
A good source for analysis (at least for me) has been Blackstone Laboratories

Non-attribution policy in affect as I have no affiliation, just good service.

But, caveat, I'm not sure how I'm going to get samples as I plan on having the oil changed by the dealer, et al.
Bring the sample bottle with you, leave in car, instruct SA during writeup.

I've done this at my Nissan dealer and so far once with the 335d at the local BMW. I even bring my own oil

- b
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      01-12-2015, 10:08 AM   #32
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How much does it cost on average to do an oil change at the dealership?
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      01-12-2015, 07:31 PM   #33
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Just got a coupon for $69.95 which they send out regularly:
Up to 7 qt. full synthetic premium oil
Oil filter
Top-off all fluids
Multi point inspection
Vehicle wash
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      01-12-2015, 08:47 PM   #34
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Don't take the number of miles as gospel. In general, you need an oil change earlier if
- The engine is new. Metal particles from a new engine and parts can get into the oil system and not necessarily get caught by the filter, either because they're too small, or so large that they don't circulate.
- High rev driving. The harder you drive the engine, the more wear per mile/km.
- Cold temperatures. A quick trip when your engine starts ice cold puts more wear than hours of driving after the engine is warm.
The combination of high rev driving and cold engine temperatures is an absolute killer. Get your oil changed at least every couple of thousand miles if you do that.

Changing the oil more often than the service interval does not hurt. Compared with the price of the car, insurance, fuel and everything else, the costs are minuscule.
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      01-12-2015, 09:50 PM   #35
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Garage List
Usually costs me just over $200. That's $125 for 8 quarts of Royal Purple and dealership labour etc. Maybe it's less, but I'm pretty sure 2 bills is pretty accurate. If you were to do it at the dealer, mine would change me about $135 all in. Oil, filter, checks and disposal.
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      01-12-2015, 11:46 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NumberSix View Post
But, caveat, I'm not sure how I'm going to get samples as I plan on having the oil changed by the dealer, et al.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bvanlieu View Post
Bring the sample bottle with you, leave in car, instruct SA during writeup.

I've done this at my Nissan dealer and so far once with the 335d at the local BMW. I even bring my own oil

- b
I just let the SA know to have the tech put some of the oil in the bottle after it has drained for a little bit. They've always done it for me without question and I've done this a few times.
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