05-06-2018, 09:46 PM | #1 |
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Min Rotor Thickness?
My search skills suck.....what's the minimum rotor thickness front and rear?
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05-07-2018, 08:38 AM | #2 |
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Not sure what car you have. For the N55 X1 it's I think 28.4/24.4mm F/R.
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06-03-2018, 06:43 PM | #3 |
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It's stamped on the rotors. Either on the hub portion of the rotor or the top by the veins.
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07-10-2018, 09:27 AM | #4 |
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on the question of rotor replacement, does anyone replace the bolts that hold the caliper carriers? These are the 16mm (in the rear) bolts that attach the caliper carrier to the wheel carrier (or the 18mm bolts that attach to the steering knuckle)? I just did the rear brakes but reused those bolts. They seemed to be in good shape, although the blue loctite on them was starting to wear.
(also, one of my rotors was missing a set screw. Thankfully those set screws I kept from the E36 are the same!) Last edited by black-box; 07-10-2018 at 09:36 AM.. |
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07-10-2018, 12:06 PM | #5 | |
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07-10-2018, 06:17 PM | #6 |
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Per the parts guy at the dealership, no need to replace them as they're not a stretch-type bolt. They only replace those when under warranty. Mine were visually fine, so I'll just put some fresh loctite on them.
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07-10-2018, 08:19 PM | #7 |
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Those bolts are not critical. I wouldn't even loctite them. Many cars dont have rotor retaining bolts.
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07-11-2018, 08:11 AM | #8 |
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He's talking about the two bolts that hold the caliper to the spindle, not the rotor retaining screws. I've never replaced those stupid rotor screws either, they always rust on like whoa and half the time when you use an impact screwdriver they break or strip.
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07-11-2018, 11:46 AM | #9 |
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Haven't changed rotors on the X1 (N55) yet but recently did rotors/pads on my M Coupe. For that, I didn't replace the carrier bolts. I also didn't notice any loc-tite on them either. Bolts/threads looked okay so I reused them and torqued to spec.
Rotor set screws, I replaced. Well....the rears, anyways. I forgot to order ones for the fronts, but made a note to myself to do that next time. Threads were all fine, but it's the head that gets chewed up and/or corroded so a little preventative maintenance for a cheap part that has to come out anyways.....I figure why not. I just use a hex socket and torque them to spec. ECS (I think) sells a stainless steel version that isn't supposed to rust. Haven't tried those. I figure the X1 is due, though. Fronts are still the originals (rears were replaced under warranty) and I'm seeing enough of an edge on the front rotor. I'll check the stamping when I get the wheels off. I need to change the oil anyways....the computer is now reminding me of it (I usually do mid-cycle changes anyways). Thankfully, brake parts for the X1 are cheaper than the Coupe.
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bosstones' flickr Last edited by bosstones; 07-11-2018 at 04:01 PM.. |
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