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      04-12-2014, 03:23 PM   #1
paradoxical3
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X1 35i M-Sport Track/Daily Driver Build

EDIT: I'm going to turn this thread into a mini build log tracking the modifications I have done and will be doing.

As I've said from the very beginning, I believe the X1 to be an almost ideal only car for someone like me. I have only one garage and live in a city, but am an avid car enthusiast who enjoys both the drag strip and road course. I play tennis and baseball at least four times a week, and constantly find myself making Home Depot or Ikea runs (translation: I need a hatchback with folding seats). On top of this, we have nasty winters where I live and AWD is a necessity. Therefore, my goal is to take the X1 and elevate it from a "great" all around car into the "perfect" all around car for me. My goals:

1. Retain stock-like comfort and drive-ability. I need to be able to have a date in the passenger seat, hit a pothole, and not lose any chance I have

2. Run a 1/4 mile in under 12.0 seconds.

3. Lap Mid-Ohio Sports car course in under 1:45 (equivalent or faster than a e92 M3 with good tires and camber plates driven by a good driver)

4. Improve the X1's somewhat awkward cosmetics

The easiest of these will be the cosmetics. To that end, I have fitted the BMW Performance black grills and Renn Motorsport 19inch wheels.

Running a 1/4 mile in under 12 seconds is not easy, but doable. The car currently stands at 12.1. I believe upgrading from the Wagner intercooler to the newly ordered Evolution Raceworks Competition intercooler (in anodized black) along with dropping nearly 40lbs of rotating weight with the lighter wheels may do the trick. I will be testing this within the next couple of weeks.

Lapping Mid-Ohio competitively with the M3 is obviously the most difficult. I am a relatively noob driver, and have only been to Mid-Ohio once. With a bone-stock suspension and stock runflat tires, the X1 was running consistently in the low 1:5x range. The question becomes, besides becoming a better driver (which will surely cut multiple seconds from that time the more I go), what can I do to achieve that goal? I decided on a comprehensive suspension overhaul based around the JRZ RS1 coilover.



For those unfamiliar with JRZ, as I was before I began doing research about a year ago, they are a high-level racing outfit that manufacturers some of the winningest suspension setups of the last few years. They are on the level of Moton and AST.

My exact setup is going to be:

JRZ RS1 Coilover
Ground Control Hybrid Camber Plates
Swift Springs

As I literally just ordered the suspension today, I will be tweaking the spring rates with the help of my local performance shop (and e90post sponsor) Turn In Concepts. I cannot recommend these guys highly enough - they have extensive race experience and have all of the equipment in-house that gives me the confidence to trust them with my setup, including a shock dyno. I will also be installing several M3 suspension components, such as the rear lower guide arms, subframe bushings, and potentially the sway bar if it fits.

I also ordered a dedicated set of track wheels - Apex ARC8 17" 9.5in, et35. These weigh only 16.9lbs each - 10lbs lighter than the stock wheels per corner. I will be running Dunlop Direzza Zii tires in a 255 square setup.

On the street, I will run OEM brake pads. On the track, I have PFC08 - since the X1 has the 335i rotors and calipers, this works perfectly. I will likely go with a Stoptech ST60 kit once I become a better driver - the Apex wheels clear this kit fine even though they are only 17in.

Unfortunately, there is a wait time for the JRZs as they are hand built in the Netherlands. I won't have them installed for around 1-1.5 months. This will give me time to hit the track a few more times on stock suspension, which should enable me to better understand the upgrade.

My next track day at Mid Ohio is from May 9-11th - one week away! This will give me a good baseline time with the stock suspension, but with the ER intercooler and Apex wheels. My focus for now is to become a better driver rather than laptimes (I will not be driving 10/10ths at a HPDE), but nonetheless I will be quite happy if I can break 1:50.

Expect lots of pics and video of the X1 at Mid Ohio with the new intercooler and wheels soon. In the meantime, here's how it looks in the daily driver setup.


JB4 Tune, Map 7 with flexfuel wires
BMS Catless Downpipe
BMS Intake
Evolution Racewerks chargepipe
NGK plugs gapped to .022
Alpina B3 Transmission Flash
Wagner Intercooler
Rennsport 19 inch wheels, 9.5" ET35 (10mm front spacer, 5mm rear)
265/35/19 Michelin PSS square setup
BMW Performance aluminum pedal set
Laser Interceptor police LIDAR jammers
Valentine 1 hardwired detector

Coilovers are up next.

Click thumbnails for larger size.
















Last edited by paradoxical3; 05-01-2014 at 10:33 PM..
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      04-12-2014, 04:11 PM   #2
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Nice

Great pics....looks good. How much unsprung weight you figure you are saving by going to aftermarket rims?
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      04-12-2014, 04:23 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zero-2-sixty View Post
Great pics....looks good. How much unsprung weight you figure you are saving by going to aftermarket rims?
Including tires it's about 30lbs I believe. These wheels only weigh 20lbs.
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      04-12-2014, 05:22 PM   #4
paradoxical3
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I just weighed the old wheels and calculated everything and I saved 33lbs of unsprung weight total.

Last edited by paradoxical3; 04-12-2014 at 05:59 PM..
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      04-13-2014, 11:23 AM   #5
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Para, I would be curious to hear what your exhaust is like now with the down pipe change....
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      04-13-2014, 12:35 PM   #6
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Very nice man, I am curious do you have any rubbing inside the fenders?

And a second question, since you did so much homework, what is the max rim width you can go with by keeping the original setting without using any spacers?
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      04-13-2014, 12:47 PM   #7
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Absolutely stunning, not to mention the car probably scoots.
The M front end is unbeatable.
Great choice for tires.
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      04-13-2014, 01:18 PM   #8
paradoxical3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EdgeCrusher View Post
Para, I would be curious to hear what your exhaust is like now with the down pipe change....
I will try to take some videos. It's pretty much perfect in my opinion. Because of the secondary cats there is zero rasp and zero drone, but it's louder when you get on it with some nice gurgles. When I downshift thanks to the revmatching from the B3 flash it sounds really nice. It's the perfect mix of aggressive and civil.

Quote:
Very nice man, I am curious do you have any rubbing inside the fenders?

And a second question, since you did so much homework, what is the max rim width you can go with by keeping the original setting without using any spacers?
With a 35mm offset you will need at least a 10mm spacer to clear the strut. Which basically means it was stupid of me to get the 35mm offset instead of 20mm.

At first I thought I didn't have any rubbing, but with these tires there is slight rubbing ONLY at full lock in the middle of the fender liners. After a day or so they don't rub anymore. I did remove one bolt from the oil cooler grill because I was paranoid it might touch when the front end was under load.

You can go basically as wide as you want with appropriate offsets if your car is not lowered, because the fenders are above the wheels. For the back you could probably easily fit 295 or even 305 rubber there if your car is stock height, less if it's lowered. For the front, the only issue you will have is rubbing at full lock in the middle of the fender liners.

The thing is, the rubbing is caused because my tire diameter is slightly bigger than stock. 265/35/19 is a taller tire than the stock 225/40/19. If I could do it over, I think I would do 9.5 square setup ET20 with 275/30/19. This would be 2.3% smaller than stock diameter, which would almost definitely not rub.

Last edited by paradoxical3; 04-13-2014 at 01:25 PM..
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      04-13-2014, 04:16 PM   #9
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      04-13-2014, 11:27 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paradoxical3 View Post


With a 35mm offset you will need at least a 10mm spacer to clear the strut. Which basically means it was stupid of me to get the 35mm offset instead of 20mm.

At first I thought I didn't have any rubbing, but with these tires there is slight rubbing ONLY at full lock in the middle of the fender liners. After a day or so they don't rub anymore. I did remove one bolt from the oil cooler grill because I was paranoid it might touch when the front end was under load.

You can go basically as wide as you want with appropriate offsets if your car is not lowered, because the fenders are above the wheels. For the back you could probably easily fit 295 or even 305 rubber there if your car is stock height, less if it's lowered. For the front, the only issue you will have is rubbing at full lock in the middle of the fender liners.

The thing is, the rubbing is caused because my tire diameter is slightly bigger than stock. 265/35/19 is a taller tire than the stock 225/40/19. If I could do it over, I think I would do 9.5 square setup ET20 with 275/30/19. This would be 2.3% smaller than stock diameter, which would almost definitely not rub.
thank you for your answers!
Basically, I am trying to find out what will be the most wider tire I can install in a square setup without getting any rubbing, even at full lock.

PS
What is the impact of your new setup on the gas mileage ?

Last edited by Teutonic; 04-13-2014 at 11:35 PM..
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      04-14-2014, 09:29 AM   #11
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Sick whip!!! Your really pioneering the way for the rest of us!! Thanks!
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      05-01-2014, 10:28 PM   #12
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Big update - turning this thread into a build log since I just ordered a JRZ suspension and Evolution Racewerks intercooler.
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      05-03-2014, 11:42 AM   #13
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Beautiful! So how many people do you surprise at the strip?
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      05-03-2014, 03:30 PM   #14
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glad your making this thread.
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      05-04-2014, 09:29 AM   #15
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I am going to pay close attention to this thread, as I can live vicariously through you. Thanks for the knowledge you share with the community.
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      05-04-2014, 03:50 PM   #16
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bmw x1 35i n55 downpipe need help which one

hi para i cant remember which down pipe you recommend since now bms doesn't sell there downpipe for the bmw n55 any more? what i did find out so far -

for the bmw x1 35i downpipe -

vr- the cheapest $290 i like its a 3"1/2 main tube not to large wont create excess turbulence inside but the inside diameter of the exiting two pipes measure 2"1/4 and if iam correct our exhaust pipes are 2"1/2 inner diameter, if our inner diamiater is 2"1/4 this is a good one.

active auto-$599 4" main tube looks like its built very well but they dont show the inside transition from main tube to the exiting two pipes, i say this because the ar down pipe looks so smooth on the inside. good hardwear.

ar design-$656 4" main body looks like its built well, very smooth in side and they have pictures when others dont, what is cool they have a heat coating to keep engine temps down which is critical.

others i didnt include if it was to cheaply made or no good pictures or not smooth inside or pinches.
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      05-04-2014, 04:24 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paradoxical3 View Post
Big update - turning this thread into a build log since I just ordered a JRZ suspension and Evolution Racewerks intercooler.
why are you switching out the wagner intercooler? did it not perform well when u took it around a track?
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      05-11-2014, 09:12 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porkay M View Post
why are you switching out the wagner intercooler? did it not perform well when u took it around a track?
The wagner performed fine, I just like to switch things up and try new things. The Evolution Racewerks is supposed to perform a couple of degrees better but at the expensive of cutting and fitment problems (and twice as expensive). I figured since I am going balls to the wall on this I might as well try it.

I took the car to Mid-Ohio this weekend and I hit 1:48, which I am very happy with. It is understeering pretty bad and a better driver could probably grab another second or two out of it, but considering it's a SUV on stock suspension and street tires it's pretty crazy.

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      05-11-2014, 10:27 PM   #19
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i went with the ar downpipe and heat coating, you did great at the track!
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      05-18-2014, 09:35 PM   #20
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Hey para i looked at the pictures of the intercooler, a little ruff i can buy new $650. the model you have it doesnt cool as much as i would like and thats why your selling it, but i could use it until i find something better. I think $400 is a good price in its condition. i have to hope it doesn't have a leak or hole and its not bent. let me know.
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      05-19-2014, 12:11 AM   #21
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OP, have you thought about convert it to RWD? Apparently someone had done it by removing the front drive shaft, and use JB4 to defeat DTC.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=519

Do you have any videos of you driving from the inside of the car? Would like to hear how the tranny flash do for you on the track.
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      05-19-2014, 10:11 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AW92 View Post
OP, have you thought about convert it to RWD? Apparently someone had done it by removing the front drive shaft, and use JB4 to defeat DTC.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=519

Do you have any videos of you driving from the inside of the car? Would like to hear how the tranny flash do for you on the track.
Interesting thought for the RWD conversion, but one of the reasons I bought it was for the AWD capability. Makes for a super-versatile car.

I do not have videos from inside the car, next time I go to the track I would like to get a better camera mount that will show my hands.

The wait for the JRZs is almost over, they should be shipping next week!

The next weak link in the car is definitely the brakes. I cannot decide what to do - spring for a Stoptech BBK or try to go with upgraded rotors and a more aggressive pad. Very hard decision.
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