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07-09-2017, 04:23 PM | #1 |
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Current (2017) Info/Advice Thread for 2011-2015 BMW e84 X1s
Hello all,
Can we do this? Maybe the advice shared here can kinda "reset" common questions. Hopefully the answers will help fellow owners who are or will be buying these as they come off original leases or now that they're in our used car price range (like me) finally. *TLDR/BLUF* USA 2013 BMW x1, xDrive28i, Tech Pkg, iDrive, original softwares -How do I update my iDrive? Is there an update? -What version iDrive is it? Saw something like "Version 5 or newer... CCC or Make models only" Huh?? -How can I update my nav map cheaply yet safely? -How can I make this thing go to a set screen every time I get in? -These noises! Omg. So annoying. Gongs, warnings, tutorials when I just accidentally fail to push the right button the first time, etc. How can I make them go away? -To the above Q, I've seen comments about "coding" different things out. I'd love that. Best way to do it safely yet inexpensively? -I'm considering H7 LEDs. Anybody vehemently against it? (Halogen Pkg on mine) -Read the owners manual but the little twisty knob it talks about on the auto dimming mirror doesn't exist on mine, and my windows are tinted and I can't see anything. What can I do? -Can I get better integration with my Pixel/Android? Seems like really dated tech. -More than anything, the updates and coding are what I'd like new info on. -Please? Further/Possibly irrelevant info: "These questions have been addressed". "Dude, just search the forums". It's like a repost on Reddit. I get it. Just the older the cars get the harder and less relevant the info to research is. So, I'm gonna ask some newb questions in hopes that some fellow X1, I'm sorry, E84 owner (See! I've learned some stuff) will be kind enough to help me out with modern, up to date info/advice. I bought it used from some old man who had it for grocery trips. 29k miles, white with tan leather. Feel like I stole it for $18k. Never had a BMW before, nothing but Hondas and Fords in this house. It's a cool little machine. I love my Hondas don't get me wrong, they're practical workhorses with predictable and reliable functions. Even the touring trim doesn't compare to base model BMW though, there's no doubt in my mind now. Just wish I knew more about the BMW culture of things in regards to how stuff worked, especially updating/personalizing the electronics. There's a significant "just ask your dealer" approach to do many things that I'm not used to, coming from the DIY mindset of car companies such as Honda. I balk at the idea of paying anyone to do something for me that I can do myself, which is why I'm here today. Any help is genuinely appreciated! |
07-09-2017, 04:57 PM | #2 | |
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This will probably not work since the resistance of LED is way less than a halogen bulb and will be reported as a failed bulb and you will see lots of flickering because of the way the system test for bad halogen bulbs. |
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07-10-2017, 10:47 AM | #3 |
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Good catch, a workaround is to measure the resistances of the halogen bulb and LED and solder an inline/in-series resistor with the LED to compensate. Total resistance is the sum of all resistors in the circuit when in series.
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07-10-2017, 11:12 AM | #4 | |
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Or better yet, get iCarly and disable voltage monitoring for low/ high beam. |
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07-10-2017, 03:28 PM | #5 |
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Nope, in series. When in parallel, the total resistance is the sum of the multiplicative inverse (1/RT = 1/R1 + 1/R2+...+1/Rn). When in series, the total resistance is the sum of resistances in the load path (RT= R1+R2+...+Rn).
Either way, coding is a better idea as you can change various other settings. |
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07-10-2017, 03:34 PM | #6 |
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If you put any resistor in series with the LED you will get less voltage on the LED, which is not what you want.
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07-10-2017, 05:06 PM | #7 |
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Nope, in series. When in parallel, the total resistance is the sum of the multiplicative inverse (1/RT = 1/R1 + 1/R2+...+1/Rn). When in series, the total resistance is the sum of resistances in the load path (RT= R1+R2+...+Rn).
Either way, coding is a better idea as you can change various other settings. |
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07-10-2017, 05:32 PM | #8 |
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The formulas you keep on quoting is 100% correct. It is the application that is incorrect. You do not want a voltage divider, and that is what you get if you put a resistor in series with the LED.
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07-11-2017, 09:45 AM | #9 |
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I'm just recalling stuff from almost 20 years ago when I took Phys 201. Understand that the voltage to the LED would drop if you put the resistor ahead of it, but why would that matter if the resistor is past the bulb? Bulb gets the voltage it's designed for, total resistance the car measures is the same, where's the problem?
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07-11-2017, 12:02 PM | #10 |
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You want the pic on the left which is parallel. I think this thread has gone too far away form the topic, if you still don't understand PM me. |
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