X1m 2013 Comfort Access Module Location

[thestimp]

Hello All,

Just picked up a 13 x1m 35i with all the bells and whistles- also have a 335 fully loaded. Drove it home and realized the CAS isnt working at all, so I'm guessing the module died. Can someone please tell me where it is located? I cant find it anywhere on the internet currently and its driving me nuts.

thanks!

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by thestimp

Hello All,

Just picked up a 13 x1m 35i with all the bells and whistles- also have a 335 fully loaded. Drove it home and realized the CAS isnt working at all, so I'm guessing the module died. Can someone please tell me where it is located? I cant find it anywhere on the internet currently and its driving me nuts.

thanks!

Most likely on the right side below the rear taillight. You'll have to pull up the trunk liner. Side compartment next to the battery. Bad location for it, and the part-line on the plastic housing is located in a horrible spot and any water back there gets into the case. What were they thinking?

Just last week I had to replace mine on a 135...water leaks through the tail light, module sits in water and eventually gets into the case and fries the board. I put all the modules back there in plastic bags, or tape the seams of the housings.

$100 on ebay for a used module and it's back working again, no coding required.

Yup, right side the of the trunk, easy swap...

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=61_1718

#1, Passive Go

[thestimp]

Thanks a bunch! I'll tear it apart see if thats my problem, guessing from NO CA working at all its all fried. I'll do that wrap like you did.

Thanks!

[fiehlsport]

X1 M-Sport* :-D Might ruffle a few feathers calling it an M.

[thestimp]

Yeah I like to butt hurt the 335 guys, me being one of them.

Got the BMWHAT app and did some coding tonight, some worked some didn't. my outside digital temp also shot up to 150F and idles around 100, really weird.. all I really want to work is doors open when I turn the car off and that's eh one that wont effing work.

Still cant figure out the CAS module location but I haven't completely taken off the back right wall in the trunk. The BMWHAT app says the CAS isn't responding at all, so I think I'm right when I say its dead.

Once I get a day to rip it out I'll know for sure, so annoying having muscle memory with the 335 and then go to this car and nothing.

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by thestimp

Yeah I like to butt hurt the 335 guys, me being one of them.

Got the BMWHAT app and did some coding tonight, some worked some didn't. my outside digital temp also shot up to 150F and idles around 100, really weird.. all I really want to work is doors open when I turn the car off and that's eh one that wont effing work.

Still cant figure out the CAS module location but I haven't completely taken off the back right wall in the trunk. The BMWHAT app says the CAS isn't responding at all, so I think I'm right when I say its dead.

Once I get a day to rip it out I'll know for sure, so annoying having muscle memory with the 335 and then go to this car and nothing.

The temp sensor will fix itself in a day or two, that's normal when you code the CAS I believe.

Did you look at the realoem diagram posted above? And it's not down there?

Edit: Looking again at the pic, might be moved forward of the taillight, and more like behind the rear seats on the right side. Not too hard to pull those panels and peak around for it.

[thestimp]

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

The temp sensor will fix itself in a day or two, that's normal when you code the CAS I believe.

Did you look at the realoem diagram posted above? And it's not down there?

Edit: Looking again at the pic, might be moved forward of the taillight, and more like behind the rear seats on the right side. Not too hard to pull those panels and peak around for it.

Are you sure I can just replace that thing without coding? How will it attune to my keys and such? From what I'm reading I need to have in VIN specific and do some coding. Yarg. I can do the coding but I'd rather because the brickening.

[vstolpner]

If the module is only for reading the keys and passing the codes to the main ECU then the keys wouldn't need to be coded, but I would be surprised if there was anything in the car that can be changed without coding it.

BTW, any luck with getting the doors to unlock when the engine shuts off?

[thestimp]

Originally Posted by vstolpner

If the module is only for reading the keys and passing the codes to the main ECU then the keys wouldn't need to be coded, but I would be surprised if there was anything in the car that can be changed without coding it.

BTW, any luck with getting the doors to unlock when the engine shuts off?

Yeah the doors unlock when the key pops out now, took 1 or two restarts and I recoded it again.

Next up is seat belt chimes and all that, my Bluetooth thingy has a high fail rate had to go get my USB cable to try it out.

I'm a little hesitent on buying the 100$ ebay Comfort access module if I need to code it. I may hold off and wrap my head around all the aspects first.

I also need to order my JB4, downpipes, and chargepipe. :-D

I'll let you know what I find when I try to access the cas module VIA laptop and such. Maybe its just bricked and I can bring it back to life with BMW tools, WINKfp etc...

[thestimp]

Wait, if my KeyFob is working but the Comfort Access is not, this is the way to go? Replace the control unit go thing?

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by thestimp

Are you sure I can just replace that thing without coding? How will it attune to my keys and such? From what I'm reading I need to have in VIN specific and do some coding. Yarg. I can do the coding but I'd rather because the brickening.

Originally Posted by vstolpner

If the module is only for reading the keys and passing the codes to the main ECU then the keys wouldn't need to be coded, but I would be surprised if there was anything in the car that can be changed without coding it.

BTW, any luck with getting the doors to unlock when the engine shuts off?

Originally Posted by thestimp

Yeah the doors unlock when the key pops out now, took 1 or two restarts and I recoded it again.

Next up is seat belt chimes and all that, my Bluetooth thingy has a high fail rate had to go get my USB cable to try it out.

I'm a little hesitent on buying the 100$ ebay Comfort access module if I need to code it. I may hold off and wrap my head around all the aspects first.

I also need to order my JB4, downpipes, and chargepipe. :-D

I'll let you know what I find when I try to access the cas module VIA laptop and such. Maybe its just bricked and I can bring it back to life with BMW tools, WINKfp etc...

Originally Posted by thestimp

Wait, if my KeyFob is working but the Comfort Access is not, this is the way to go? Replace the control unit go thing?

I think we're having a miscommunication.

As posted above, I literally just replaced my Passive Go (Comfort Access remote) module three days ago after mine fried. No coding required. Started working after restarting the car. These fail somewhat regularly, and result in your key fob needing to be pressed to lock and unlock the door, as well as needing to be inserted into the ignition to start the car.

Maybe you're talking about replacing the main CAS module (which is located under the dash I believe), which would of course require coding to your keys. If your other CAS module systems are working, with the exception of the auto lock/unlock and keyless start, than I wouldn't think it's the main module that's failed.

And buy the JB4, chargepipe, and DP used. Save yourself all that money.

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by thestimp

Wait, if my KeyFob is working but the Comfort Access is not, this is the way to go? Replace the control unit go thing?

First thing's first, take the 5 minutes and remove the Passive Go module. Open up the case, remove the board, and see if you can tell if the board is damaged. The normal failure is water, which results in a short. You can see it on the board, and/or smell it.

[PrematureApex]

There is the CAS module (front left driver area) which controls normal lock/unlock via radio remote, then there is a CA module (right trunk near seatback) that detects the location of the CA key to provide Comfort Access functionality (no need to press buttons on FOB or insert key into dash slot). Your CAS module works, but your CA module appears to not detect the key. So a clue in detecting the fundamental reason for not properly function is:

1. Remote FOB button press lock/unlock
2. FOB in dash slot allows Start of engine
3. Key in trunk allows trunk to be closed, accidentally locking in the key in trunk

Above are standard functions (without CA), below are CA functions

1. Grasp handle to unlock, press ridges to lock
2. Key in pocket allows Start of engine
3. Key in trunk does not allow trunk to be closed and locked, preventing accidental key left in trunk

When CA key is detected to be close to car, car asks CA key to identify itself. After key identifies itself, CAS allows car to be opened by pulling on handle.

There you go.

Sounds like you have a Passive Go issue, not a CAS module failure. I replaced one in my 135 with a like-part number from a 3 series, no coding required.

Also, check all your fuses.

[thestimp]

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

There you go.

Sounds like you have a Passive Go issue, not a CAS module failure. I replaced one in my 135 with a like-part number from a 3 series, no coding required.

Also, check all your fuses.

We are now on the same page, it is JUST the comfort access, so I need a new passive go unit, trying to find a used one is tricky.

I'll check the fuses tonight, I see something like 60, 61,62 and another to check.

Glad to see its a simple procedure, thanks for all your help!

Also going to do the Alpina b3 flash tomorrow.

I've done all of the same things to my 335, which had a brick wall fall on it, check the other threads. If that gets totaled then I will cannibalize parts from it to put into the x1 before the hoard it off.

Totally right on the used parts, I have a few myself I could sell...

[PrematureApex]

Try the new (older) Alpina flash, I liked it a bit more over the standard one.

7615835 (Alpina B3 trans flash)
-Gear indicator (D1, S1)
-D shift rpm relatively low
-S mode shift rpm 2800-3000
-Great rev match downshifting
-7000rpm shift

7603537 ("Old / Alternate" Alpina B3 trans flash)
-same as 7615835 except:
-smoother
-slightly higher RPM D mode upshifts

[PrematureApex]

I'd pull the module first, then search on ebay/etc. for the part number. I found mine pretty easily.

[thestimp]

Didnt realize there were two AB3 flashes, I think I had the regular version on my old 335. I'll check it out!


Now I have to figure out how to remove that back panel, seems like a pain - also its cold out, wish I had a heated garage.

[thestimp]

UPDATE:

For future people researching this.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=51_7721

Thats how you take off the side panel covering the Passive Go system blah blah.

[PrematureApex]

Also make sure to try fresh batteries in the keys before spending $$$ on the module, unless it's obviously fried.

[vstolpner]

Wow, I think your board might be a little damaged... Lol

[thestimp]

Just changed the batteries and checked 4 fuses. Still zero CA functions. Module is next, once I figure out how to get the panel off, seems like I need to remove a rail and seat padding. FUKSLDJFLKSDJFLK

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by thestimp

Just changed the batteries and checked 4 fuses. Still zero CA functions. Module is next, once I figure out how to get the panel off, seems like I need to remove a rail and seat padding. FUKSLDJFLKSDJFLK

It's easy. The corner piece of seat padding pulls right off, just yank on it. All the black fasteners with the center pin are easy. The only PITA on the X1 is the torx bolt. It's tight.