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      11-27-2013, 11:20 PM   #1
squishy
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How To: Adjusting Xenon Headlight Level

Hey guys,


I didn't see a thread on this, so figured I would post up. This is how to adjust the xenon headlight level, vertically. This is for the North American X1, not sure about the X1 in other countries, though I would imagine they would be the same.


Okay, I noticed from factory, the headlight level is unusually low, which reduces visibility on the road up ahead. So, I wanted to move the level slightly higher. To do this, you have to pop open the hood, and look directly on top of the headlamp. There should be a metal bar going across the top of the headlamp (both headlamps are the same). On the very top of the bar, there are two holes. One of the holes should lead to a plastic adjuster piece. There is about 2 inches in separation between the hole on the metal part and the adjuster. This is to adjust the headlight level. You would need to insert a screwdriver which has 6 sides I believe, but I used a flathead screwdriver and it worked just fine. Insert it through the hole, and turn clockwise to move the level down, and counterclockwise to move the level up. A small adjustment makes a noticeable difference! The best way to check the level is to park your X1 in front of a wall, parked on a plain surface, i.e., a surface that is not slanted upwards or downwards, and adjust accordingly. This is a trial and error process. Adjust the headlights (when it's dark out), and go test drive it to see how it is.

To get both headlights adjusted evenly, park in front of a white wall, and place blue tape on the wall going across. Place it evenly based on where the ground is. OR, get one headlight up to where you want it to be, and then place the tape on the wall to get the other headlight at the same level.


Adjusting the level too high will blind the piss out of oncoming cars! You have to be careful on how much you adjust it. I parked my X1 about 25 feel from a wall, and adjusted both headlights approximately 3-3.5 inches up. This, I found, was absolutely perfect. I test drove it at night about 5 miles on a hilly road, and the level was exactly where I wanted it. It really lights up the road ahead, without blinding oncoming cars. Coming up to parked SUV's (Honda Pilot was one) the light cutoff was at the bottom of their license plates, and on cars (XV40 Toyota Camry, as I recall), it came up to the top of their license plates.


I will try to take pictures of everything (adjuster screw, cutoff level, etc.) soon. It was freezing out tonight, and didn't want to stay out there too long.


Feel free to ask any questions!
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      11-27-2013, 11:32 PM   #2
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Perhaps I'm wrong, but I thought the headlights are auto adjusting so depending on the weight distribution of the vehicle load, they adjust to different angles to keep the lights parallel with the ground.
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      11-27-2013, 11:38 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric5273 View Post
Perhaps I'm wrong, but I thought the headlights are auto adjusting so depending on the weight distribution of the vehicle load, they adjust to different angles to keep the lights parallel with the ground.
They are auto adjusting, but I don't think they stay parallel with the ground. For one thing, they weren't parallel to begin with out of factory. They are nearly parallel now, after I adjusted them. I would NOT recommend adjusting them parallel with the ground. They need to be slanted very slightly downwards, so one does not blind oncoming cars that sit lower than the X1.

Maybe here's what happens: I raised the level of the cutoff to slightly below parallel to the ground. So, when coming up to a hill, the headlights auto adjust to higher than what they would be factory, depending on how much I raised them. That's my guess, but I could be wrong.
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      11-28-2013, 08:55 AM   #4
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Great thing with E-code halogens or xenons is the sharp cutoff, which makes adjusting them as per the OP much easier than the older, fuzzy cutoff of domestic halogens.
Her ladyship's panzer (aka A4 Audi) has great xenon lights, so I'm expecting more of the same with the X1....if it ever gets here.
His advice is well taken to not crank them up too far; opposing traffic will let you know of their unhappiness, and I suggest you follow someone you know at night to get their impression as well.
Now if we just could take a ball peen to the lights of the damnfools who stick xenon capsules in halogen fixtures....
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      12-26-2013, 08:52 PM   #5
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Pics? I going out to do this first chance i get.

Thanks for the post.
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      12-26-2013, 10:06 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by popopine View Post
Pics? I going out to do this first chance i get.

Thanks for the post.
Oh sorry, this thread completely slipped my mind.

It's dark out now, but I can try to get pics first thing tomorrow morning. Trust me, it may seem daunting, but it is very simple. You shouldn't have trouble locating the plastic adjuster piece, as long as you follow my advice.
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      12-27-2013, 12:01 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric5273 View Post
Perhaps I'm wrong, but I thought the headlights are auto adjusting so depending on the weight distribution of the vehicle load, they adjust to different angles to keep the lights parallel with the ground.
corect + depends and the speed
if you start the car and open lights you see that light going up and down in the start
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      12-29-2013, 01:32 PM   #8
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One issue that I encountered in my recent trip to Tahoe, non HID headlights are inadequate in pitch dark winding roads. They are either aimed too low or the OEM bulbs are not good. Most probably the former, because the light is actually quite bright but cuts off suddenly. After reading this thread I think HIDs have the same problem.
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      12-29-2013, 02:28 PM   #9
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They're aimed fine I'm sure. The output in lumens is extremely low for Halogen bulbs as compared to HIDs. One thing I made sure to get on mine was the lighting package. This is my first with HIDs and I'll never be able to go back to halogens. My roomie and I are also in the midst of renovating, which we're changing all the lights to HID/LED.
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      12-29-2013, 03:00 PM   #10
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The sharp cutoff is an acquired taste, and you'll find it works really well in rain, snow or fog, with far less bounceback. Concur that factory halogens are often less than satisfactory; I've been putting E-codes in the Jeeps for 20 years, and fitting them with 100w bulbs and relays under the hood. Part of the problem in most vehicles is voltage drop when the power has to be run to the steering column and then back to the lights, often a considerable distance. There is little advantage to bumping the wattage without the relays.
The E-code 100w setup is virtually as good as Xenons IMHO, and doesn't blind anyone if set correctly.
Short of the relays, an improvement in halogens can be achieved with Sylvania SilverStars, which are noticeably brighter/whiter than OEM.
Twix, if you're putting those HIDs in halogen housings, I'll be looking for your lights with a BFH (last word is 'hammer') . Seriously, those conversions make a ton of light, but it is wildly unfocused and blinds the oncoming traffic no end...frequently there is no provision for high beams as well, or the brights seem to be on all the time...hope that's not the kind of conversions you and your roomie are considering.
Squishy, thnx for originating the thread, and do post pics. I wouldn't mind raising my lights just a little, but I'm really happy with the brightness and sharp cutoff.
Best,
Moon
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      12-29-2013, 03:07 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twix View Post
They're aimed fine I'm sure. The output in lumens is extremely low for Halogen bulbs as compared to HIDs. One thing I made sure to get on mine was the lighting package. This is my first with HIDs and I'll never be able to go back to halogens. My roomie and I are also in the midst of renovating, which we're changing all the lights to HID/LED.
The output is not the issue. When you switch to high beams (halogen BTW), you can see practically to eternity. Also as you see people with HIDs have mentioned similar issue.

HIDs are definitely better, but there are 1k more. There are millions of cars with halogen bulbs on the road and most of them have adequate visibility.
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      12-29-2013, 03:19 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halfmoonclip View Post
The sharp cutoff is an acquired taste, and you'll find it works really well in rain, snow or fog, with far less bounceback. Concur that factory halogens are often less than satisfactory; I've been putting E-codes in the Jeeps for 20 years, and fitting them with 100w bulbs and relays under the hood. Part of the problem in most vehicles is voltage drop when the power has to be run to the steering column and then back to the lights, often a considerable distance. There is little advantage to bumping the wattage without the relays.
The E-code 100w setup is virtually as good as Xenons IMHO, and doesn't blind anyone if set correctly.
Short of the relays, an improvement in halogens can be achieved with Sylvania SilverStars, which are noticeably brighter/whiter than OEM.
Twix, if you're putting those HIDs in halogen housings, I'll be looking for your lights with a BFH (last word is 'hammer') . Seriously, those conversions make a ton of light, but it is wildly unfocused and blinds the oncoming traffic no end...frequently there is no provision for high beams as well, or the brights seem to be on all the time...hope that's not the kind of conversions you and your roomie are considering.
Squishy, thnx for originating the thread, and do post pics. I wouldn't mind raising my lights just a little, but I'm really happy with the brightness and sharp cutoff.
Best,
Moon
Silvania Silverstar ultra indeed make a huge difference and provide semi HID lighting, but they last about a year, sometimes 6 months.
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      12-29-2013, 09:16 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MazdaFan View Post
Silvania Silverstar ultra indeed make a huge difference and provide semi HID lighting, but they last about a year, sometimes 6 months.
I've a set of Silverstars in the Ford Focus that is now my daughter's; they are about two years old and still working fine.
My counsel to her has been to use the fog lights when you simply need lights to be seen; that tends to stretch the life expectancy of the SilverStars.
Just drove the X1 home in a dark and dreary deluge; worth every damn penny I paid for it.
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      12-29-2013, 11:01 PM   #14
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Nah dude, I have the factory HIDs. I'm not retarded enough to do one of those cheap retro kits.
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      12-30-2013, 11:07 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twix View Post
Nah dude, I have the factory HIDs. I'm not retarded enough to do one of those cheap retro kits.
Sorry, Twix. Didn't mean to beat ya' up about it. Those damned kits were fairly common in PA for awhile, but either the cops, inspection stations, or outraged citizens have virtually eliminated them, but they remain a sore point for me.
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      02-02-2014, 02:55 PM   #16
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I'm going to post this here as well as in the original thread where I asked the question....
To adjust the Xenon lights:
-there is an opening just outboard of the rubber bumpers that support the hood; this on the black crossmember that mounts the radiator under the hood
-in the bottom of this opening is a white nylon screw that will accept either a 6mm Allen key, a straight screwdriver or a Phillips
-counterclockwise raises the aim of the lights; do all adjustments with the low beams
-a cinderblock wall is ideal, using the courses of block to align the left and right light vertically
-only raise the lights a little and try them; too much and oncoming drivers will be unhappy
-adjust them so that the the horizontal cutoffs align; the driver's side was noticeably low on mine after an accident and repairs; not sure how they were from the factory
-the sharp cutoff reduces bounceback in sloppy weather, but it is an acquired taste; lights set too low and you will be able to overdrive them
-the self-adjusting feature should keep a full load from blinding oncoming drivers
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      08-01-2014, 04:01 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aris View Post
corect + depends and the speed
if you start the car and open lights you see that light going up and down in the start
will this happen every time you start the car?
haven't seen it in 6 months, while our 1 series (non xenon) does it every time.
I think there is something more going on here...
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      11-14-2016, 07:00 AM   #18
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I don't drive at night very often but noticed recently that the illumination would only go about 20ft in front of the car and then be pitch dark. I attribute this to lowering the car and also using springs on my 35i that were designed for the 28i (ie. heavier in front). In any case, I adjusted the cutoff higher and the illumination is miles better. I can still see the cutoff on the ground in the distance so I don't think I'm blinding anyone and have not been flashed yet.

Highly recommend anyone with lowered suspension to check their headlights.
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