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      03-06-2016, 06:20 PM   #1
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Tension Strut Hydrobearing Replacement

Finally got rid of the dreaded hydro bearing in the front control arm/tension strut.

I used the only option, the StrongFlex polyurethane bushing...took about 2 weeks to arrive from Poland.

Here are a couple pics...

I used a combination tools from a normal wheel bearing puller kit (e.g. harbor Freight) and a ball joint press kit (again, like you can get at Harbor Freight).



And as with most jobs, a strong impact gun helps (in this case, a Milwaukee 18V 1/2").

The inboard end of the TS comes out VERY easily with a couple 18mm tools of your choosing. I had to take off 2 fasteners of the undertray to allow it to hang down enough to remove the TS bolt.

After that, I used this setup to press the hydro out...driven by my impact gun.



^^Bearing is about 1/2 way pressed out.

As for the poly install, the first one went in easily with a similar setup. The second one put up a bit of a fight. The bushing just didn't want to get started and popped out a couple of times.

I had to get a hair creative. I wound up pressing the poly into a receiver (a metal cylinder) which had a diameter half way between the diameter of the bushing's lip, and the TS opening. So it was easier to press in/get started. Then I butted that receiver up to the TS opening, and ran the bushing through. So in other words, I did a stepped press, a first stage which got the bushing started, and then a second stage into the TS. Worked like a charm.
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      05-29-2017, 10:09 AM   #2
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So I'm hesitant to use a poly bushing here as I use my car year round, and don't like re-greasing bushings when the OE ones were maintenance-free. I have always had bad luck with poly being used over the winter - salt and junk gets thrown into them and they disintegrate.

I've heard that the M3 solid rubber bushings can be retrofit into this location, as long as 5mm is shaved off of the collar on each side. Is there any truth to this? (RWD bushings are apparently wider than their AWD counterparts)
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      05-30-2017, 06:43 AM   #3
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That is true, you can make them work.
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'02 S54 M3 (500/500 GC/Koni)
'08 N54 135 (JB4, DCI, BMW PS/Bilstein B6s, H&R M3 FSB, Strongflex FCABs)
'14 N55 X1 (JB4, BMS DP, BMS Intake, Alpina TCU reflash, H&R Sports, Bilstein B6s, E93 M3 RSB, Strongflex FCABs, baby seat)
'08 N54 535xi touring (Bilstein B6s, Downpipes, MHD tune, baby seat)
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      05-30-2017, 10:49 AM   #4
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Cool, thanks for the reassurance! I found them on eBay (OE Lemforder) for $30 each, might grab a set. My girlfriend's dad is a machinist - he can lop 5mm off each side better than I can most likely. I'll make sure to post pics and info if it works.
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      06-01-2017, 06:20 PM   #5
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Got the bushings (Lemforder OEM) for $45 shipped from FCP Euro. I'll try to get pics, picking up a ball joint press tool tomorrow morning.

I also measured the old bushing - it truly is exactly 5mm off each side that needs to come off. Nice and simple.
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      06-03-2017, 07:12 PM   #6
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Done! This job sucked, but with $300 in loaner tools from Autozone/Harbor Freight I was able to get it done.

M3 Control Arm Bushings: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...m3-31102283579

My girlfriend's father milled 0.197" (197 thousandths in CNC speak) off of each end of the bushings. (Approx 5mm) This allows the RWD bushings to fit where AWD bushings should be. Apparently that job sucked too - the aluminum wasn't a smooth cut, and he went through 4 end mill tools, working very slowly otherwise the bushing would wiggle loose from the CNC table.





I had to use a T-Bolt clamp to close the gap on the new bushings before pressing them in:



Make sure to tighten the control arm bolt when the vehicle is at RIDE HEIGHT - not on a jack. Otherwise these bushings will tear. I left the bolts loose, drove the car up on ramps, then tightened from below.

Steering response and ride compliance is SLIGHTLY more taut. But, I'll have more peace of mind now when tracking the car, knowing the stock hydro-bushings aren't wobbling around like crazy.

Last edited by fiehlsport; 06-03-2017 at 08:14 PM..
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      03-14-2018, 02:11 PM   #7
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So.......

Has anyone with the polyurethane bushings developed problems with squeaks? I'm considering tackling this job, but I'm also considering spending more $$ and going to a monoball bushing, like these:

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...m-bearing-set/

I'm also a bit wary of the NVH increase with monoballs, so if anyone can relate their experience with them, I would be interested to hear it too.
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      03-17-2018, 06:23 PM   #8
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No, no squeaks and no re-greasing yet. Been at least 30k miles.
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'02 S54 M3 (500/500 GC/Koni)
'08 N54 135 (JB4, DCI, BMW PS/Bilstein B6s, H&R M3 FSB, Strongflex FCABs)
'14 N55 X1 (JB4, BMS DP, BMS Intake, Alpina TCU reflash, H&R Sports, Bilstein B6s, E93 M3 RSB, Strongflex FCABs, baby seat)
'08 N54 535xi touring (Bilstein B6s, Downpipes, MHD tune, baby seat)
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