Any advice on rotors?

DUI Elite · 11-29-2016, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Njerts

I think I will. I have always done my own brakes and it is not difficult at all.
I got a nice socket set with a torque wrench on black Friday.

But my brakes feels really good now, hopefully they will last till summer. It is so much better working on a car if you are not freezing.

I will start shopping for part in the mean time.

If you want an upgrade in braking performance, consider stoptech street performance pads and ATE Typ 200 brake fluid.

Initial bite will be a little harsher than OEM and it will take a lot more abuse to experience brake fade compared to OEM fluid.

If you want extremely durable pads that can even survive some decent road racing abuse but still work well on the street, look into Performance Friction Z-rated pads. If you still need something stronger than that, do Performance Friction 08 compounds (though I wouldn't recommend daily driving on these. They require a good amount of heat in them before they stop appropriately)

jaeezzy · 11-29-2016, 09:00 PM

I'm eyeing on these with holes from Zimmermann - Product number: BRSP909192Z

Njerts · 11-29-2016, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaeezzy

I'm eyeing on these with holes from Zimmermann - Product number: BRSP909192Z

Those look nice.
I like the idea of slotted rotors, after my issues with the oem rotors.
I think debris got trapped between the rotor and pad and caused the scratched rotor. Maybe the slots would have got the debris out before the damage.

vstolpner · 11-30-2016, 11:27 AM

Slotted rotors will cause more wear on the pads and will wear more from heat themselves. So you're either taking the chance that some debris might damage your rotors again, or you'll be paying to replace pads and rotors sooner for sure.

Also, if this happened to all of your rotors then you have to ask what kind of debris would have done that and where you might have picked it up on all four rotors

Njerts · 11-30-2016, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstolpner

Slotted rotors will cause more wear on the pads and will wear more from heat themselves. So you're either taking the chance that some debris might damage your rotors again, or you'll be paying to replace pads and rotors sooner for sure.

Also, if this happened to all of your rotors then you have to ask what kind of debris would have done that and where you might have picked it up on all four rotors

My left front has more scars than the right. Rears has no abnormal damage.
Why, I don't know, I drive nowhere that I could come into contact with someting that could land between rotor and pad.
In the winter we do get some salt on the roads, but very seldom.

Regarding slots, I don't think they cause abnormal high wear, same for drilled.

bucketfoot · 05-11-2017, 08:06 PM

I may have to look into what brake upgrade options are available.

I took my X1 out on the track a couple of weeks ago and had to end a session early (to be fair it was a double session) due to my front brakes overheating and chattering really bad. This was pretty disappointing, especially given that my brother-in-law had no issues running a fricking rental Impala.

PrematureApex · 05-12-2017, 08:34 AM

I'm surprised you made it more than a few laps. Stock pads (or any street pads really), have no place on the track, and quite honestly, are dangerous.

A decent driver can fade those stock pads in a matter of a few turns, especially in a car this heavy.

Your brother in law could have been running much slower than you, and/or using much less of his brakes.

At a minimum when you go to the track, you'll want track appropriate pads and fresh fluid (or track-appropriate fluid with both high wet and high dry boiling points).

bucketfoot · 05-12-2017, 11:47 AM

I didn't have any problem the first time I went out. But the big difference was that this time we combined HDPE classes and had one long 45 minute session instead of separate 20 minute sessions.

I started getting some light chattering about 35 minutes in and was off the track by 40 minutes.

I did have fresh fluid (1-2 month old at the most), but I certainly would not rule out looking into different pads just for the track.

Given that I am not racing, and at most I'll do this a couple of times a year, I'm more so wondering if there are some better options for me that I can use both on the street & track.

Gamb1t · 05-12-2017, 04:13 PM

Your X1 has a dry weight of 3700lbs. Whereas a typical Impala is lighter (depending on MY and trims). Driving characteristics affects the outcome too. It's a total apples to oranges comparison.

Track pads usually make lousy street application. Maybe have 2 types of pads available. Switch back and forth.... abit of a PITA, but you get much more satisfaction. Personally I'd just buy cheap used Miata for track days.

Mtpisgah · 05-26-2017, 08:59 PM

I replaced my rear pads and rotors tonight at 86k miles. The pads are done but the rotors had little wear on them. I bought Centric blank rotors online and the pads from the local BMW dealer. The rotors were harder to get off than the fronts, a bit seized from rust. On all my other cars, I have set the parking brake when doing brake jobs but that is a mistake on this car. Leave the brake off and the rotors will come off easier, once you break them free from the rust that is.

From the time I started pulling tools off the shelf to putting the last tool back on was was two hours, that includes a bathroom and beer break (separate events). A bit longer than previous brake jobs but still not bad and better than paying the shop.

fiehlsport · 05-29-2017, 06:51 PM

I got a set of Carquest (Chinese) painted rotors from Advance Auto before my 35i's last trackday. It cost $99 after coupon for the set, and they look just like OEM with the painted hats. They held up great with a set of Hawk HPS 5.0 pads. Next time I'm going to go more aggressive on the pads as they started to fade after a few 20 minute sessions, but the rotor isn't as crucial as the pads and fluid. (If you're keeping everything relatively stock)

SharpAndCunning · 05-31-2017, 09:46 PM

What do you guys do about the sensor?

I just had to have my sensor replaced under warranty, because it was telling me at 10mm of pad thickness I need brakes in 600 miles.

I have no problem with Autozone rotors. I used them on my Genesis Coupe Track pack, and I warrantied them at 22 months(2 year warranty). They were fine. The C-max plus ceremic pads were way better than oem, and that car had brembo brakes.

I'm sure Autozone rotors and cmax pads for the X1 will be more than adequate.

fiehlsport · 06-01-2017, 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpc647

What do you guys do about the sensor?

I just had to have my sensor replaced under warranty, because it was telling me at 10mm of pad thickness I need brakes in 600 miles.

I have no problem with Autozone rotors. I used them on my Genesis Coupe Track pack, and I warrantied them at 22 months(2 year warranty). They were fine. The C-max plus ceremic pads were way better than oem, and that car had brembo brakes.

I'm sure Autozone rotors and cmax pads for the X1 will be more than adequate.

If the sensor hasn't been touched by the rotor yet, I don't see any reason not to reuse it. Then, reset the wear monitor through the dash. (or iDrive if equipped)

SharpAndCunning · 06-01-2017, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burnout8488

If the sensor hasn't been touched by the rotor yet, I don't see any reason not to reuse it. Then, reset the wear monitor through the dash. (or iDrive if equipped)

Good point.

bucketfoot · 07-03-2017, 09:34 PM

I'm probably going to spend a little more and go with StopTech slotted rotors (paired with Hawk HPS 5.0 pads), but does anyone have any experience with Brake Performance brand rotors?

cheychey · 07-11-2017, 06:25 PM

Sorry for hijacking the thread. I'm also in need for rotors as well as brakes. I just got back from my mechanic and he said I have to change all my rotors, brakes and sensors as well. He quote me for parts CDN $250 for the front rotors ($125 each) and CDN $200 for the rear rotors ($100 each). As for the brakes its $125 for the front set and $95 for the rear set. Also $25 for each set of sensors ($50 for all). He said they are german but I forgot to ask which brand. I will call him tomorrow to find out. I was wondering if these prices are ok.

Update: Found out the brakes are textar and rotors are either zimmerman or textar.

Njerts · 07-26-2017, 11:32 AM

Sorry for the late reply. That is very reasonable for Canadian prices.
Dealer front rotors are $155 a piece.
Front pads are $205 a set.
Front sensor is $35
(All amounts in CAD)

bill1963 · 08-08-2017, 02:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Njerts

Sorry for the late reply. That is very reasonable for Canadian prices.
Dealer front rotors are $155 a piece.
Front pads are $205 a set.
Front sensor is $35
(All amounts in CAD)

so any update? Did you change pads and rotors yourself? Or did you try get a quote from Nixon Auto in Burnaby? I'm from Vancouver too so really curious what Nixon had quoted you compared to the dealership $1850.

Njerts · 08-14-2017, 08:42 AM

Brakes was done this weekend. I went for Brembo rotors and pads.
It took less than an hour with the help of a friend that knows all lot more than me.
His method is not to touch the caliper bolts at all.
Just remove the 2 x 16mm caliper bracket bolts, push back the piston, take off the whole brake assembly then replace pads and rotors.

green333 · 08-15-2017, 04:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Njerts

Brakes was done this weekend. I went for Brembo rotors and pads.
It took less than an hour with the help of a friend that knows all lot more than me.
His method is not to touch the caliper bolts at all.
Just remove the 2 x 16mm caliper bracket bolts, push back the piston, take off the whole brake assembly then replace pads and rotors.

wow... that is a fast brake job, you saved a lot of money by not going to the dealer haha.

Njerts · 08-15-2017, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by green333

wow... that is a fast brake job, you saved a lot of money by not going to the dealer haha.

I am sure they will get it another way😁

bucketfoot · 08-19-2017, 04:07 PM

I ended up going with StopTech slotted rotors paired with Hawk HPS 5.0 pads.

Took it out on some nearby country roads to bed the brakes and am very happy with the initial feel and stopping power. I look forward to seeing how they feel on the track the next time I get out (should be the end of Sept).

11-29-2016, 09:00 PM	#24
jaeezzy Enthusiast 28 Rep 305 Posts Drives: BMW X1 sDrive18d M Sport Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Australia iTrader: (0)	I'm eyeing on these with holes from Zimmermann - Product number: BRSP909192Z Attached Images __________________ ... jaeezzy...
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11-30-2016, 11:27 AM	#26
vstolpner Captain 25 Rep 673 Posts Drives: 2019 F39 X2 m35i Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Vancouver, BC iTrader: (0)	Slotted rotors will cause more wear on the pads and will wear more from heat themselves. So you're either taking the chance that some debris might damage your rotors again, or you'll be paying to replace pads and rotors sooner for sure. Also, if this happened to all of your rotors then you have to ask what kind of debris would have done that and where you might have picked it up on all four rotors
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05-11-2017, 08:06 PM	#28
bucketfoot Captain 1064 Rep 819 Posts Drives: 2020 Toyota GT86 Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Centennial, CO iTrader: (0)	I may have to look into what brake upgrade options are available. I took my X1 out on the track a couple of weeks ago and had to end a session early (to be fair it was a double session) due to my front brakes overheating and chattering really bad. This was pretty disappointing, especially given that my brother-in-law had no issues running a fricking rental Impala.
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05-12-2017, 08:34 AM	#29
PrematureApex Colonel 840 Rep 2,402 Posts Drives: N55 X1, N54 135, s54 m3 Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Philadelphia iTrader: (0)	I'm surprised you made it more than a few laps. Stock pads (or any street pads really), have no place on the track, and quite honestly, are dangerous. A decent driver can fade those stock pads in a matter of a few turns, especially in a car this heavy. Your brother in law could have been running much slower than you, and/or using much less of his brakes. At a minimum when you go to the track, you'll want track appropriate pads and fresh fluid (or track-appropriate fluid with both high wet and high dry boiling points). __________________ '02 S54 M3 (500/500 GC/Koni) '08 N54 135 (JB4, DCI, BMW PS/Bilstein B6s, H&R M3 FSB, Strongflex FCABs) '14 N55 X1 (JB4, BMS DP, BMS Intake, Alpina TCU reflash, H&R Sports, Bilstein B6s, E93 M3 RSB, Strongflex FCABs, baby seat) '08 N54 535xi touring (Bilstein B6s, Downpipes, MHD tune, baby seat)
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05-12-2017, 11:47 AM	#30
bucketfoot Captain 1064 Rep 819 Posts Drives: 2020 Toyota GT86 Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Centennial, CO iTrader: (0)	I didn't have any problem the first time I went out. But the big difference was that this time we combined HDPE classes and had one long 45 minute session instead of separate 20 minute sessions. I started getting some light chattering about 35 minutes in and was off the track by 40 minutes. I did have fresh fluid (1-2 month old at the most), but I certainly would not rule out looking into different pads just for the track. Given that I am not racing, and at most I'll do this a couple of times a year, I'm more so wondering if there are some better options for me that I can use both on the street & track.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-12-2017, 04:13 PM	#31
Gamb1t Major 598 Rep 1,343 Posts Drives: 330i,X1,Z4,Solstice GXP, RX-8 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Canukistan iTrader: (0)	Your X1 has a dry weight of 3700lbs. Whereas a typical Impala is lighter (depending on MY and trims). Driving characteristics affects the outcome too. It's a total apples to oranges comparison. Track pads usually make lousy street application. Maybe have 2 types of pads available. Switch back and forth.... abit of a PITA, but you get much more satisfaction. Personally I'd just buy cheap used Miata for track days.
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05-26-2017, 08:59 PM	#32
Mtpisgah Private First Class 14 Rep 148 Posts Drives: 2010 WRX & 2013 X1 Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Greenville, SC iTrader: (0)	I replaced my rear pads and rotors tonight at 86k miles. The pads are done but the rotors had little wear on them. I bought Centric blank rotors online and the pads from the local BMW dealer. The rotors were harder to get off than the fronts, a bit seized from rust. On all my other cars, I have set the parking brake when doing brake jobs but that is a mistake on this car. Leave the brake off and the rotors will come off easier, once you break them free from the rust that is. From the time I started pulling tools off the shelf to putting the last tool back on was was two hours, that includes a bathroom and beer break (separate events). A bit longer than previous brake jobs but still not bad and better than paying the shop.
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05-29-2017, 06:51 PM	#33
fiehlsport Second Lieutenant 49 Rep 283 Posts Drives: '13 X1 xDrive35i Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Endwell, NY iTrader: (1)	I got a set of Carquest (Chinese) painted rotors from Advance Auto before my 35i's last trackday. It cost $99 after coupon for the set, and they look just like OEM with the painted hats. They held up great with a set of Hawk HPS 5.0 pads. Next time I'm going to go more aggressive on the pads as they started to fade after a few 20 minute sessions, but the rotor isn't as crucial as the pads and fluid. (If you're keeping everything relatively stock)
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05-31-2017, 09:46 PM	#34
SharpAndCunning Lieutenant 100 Rep 432 Posts Drives: 2014 X1 35i Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: . iTrader: (0)	What do you guys do about the sensor? I just had to have my sensor replaced under warranty, because it was telling me at 10mm of pad thickness I need brakes in 600 miles. I have no problem with Autozone rotors. I used them on my Genesis Coupe Track pack, and I warrantied them at 22 months(2 year warranty). They were fine. The C-max plus ceremic pads were way better than oem, and that car had brembo brakes. I'm sure Autozone rotors and cmax pads for the X1 will be more than adequate.
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07-03-2017, 09:34 PM	#37
bucketfoot Captain 1064 Rep 819 Posts Drives: 2020 Toyota GT86 Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Centennial, CO iTrader: (0)	I'm probably going to spend a little more and go with StopTech slotted rotors (paired with Hawk HPS 5.0 pads), but does anyone have any experience with Brake Performance brand rotors?
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07-11-2017, 06:25 PM	#38
cheychey New Member 4 Rep 22 Posts Drives: 2012 BMW X1 Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Mississauga,ON Canada iTrader: (0)	Sorry for hijacking the thread. I'm also in need for rotors as well as brakes. I just got back from my mechanic and he said I have to change all my rotors, brakes and sensors as well. He quote me for parts CDN $250 for the front rotors ($125 each) and CDN $200 for the rear rotors ($100 each). As for the brakes its $125 for the front set and $95 for the rear set. Also $25 for each set of sensors ($50 for all). He said they are german but I forgot to ask which brand. I will call him tomorrow to find out. I was wondering if these prices are ok. Update: Found out the brakes are textar and rotors are either zimmerman or textar. Last edited by cheychey; 07-13-2017 at 09:17 PM..
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07-26-2017, 11:32 AM	#39
Njerts Lieutenant 125 Rep 545 Posts Drives: x3 m40i Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Vancouver,BC iTrader: (0) Garage List 2018 BMW X3 M40i [0.00]	Sorry for the late reply. That is very reasonable for Canadian prices. Dealer front rotors are $155 a piece. Front pads are $205 a set. Front sensor is $35 (All amounts in CAD)
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08-14-2017, 08:42 AM	#41
Njerts Lieutenant 125 Rep 545 Posts Drives: x3 m40i Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Vancouver,BC iTrader: (0) Garage List 2018 BMW X3 M40i [0.00]	Brakes was done this weekend. I went for Brembo rotors and pads. It took less than an hour with the help of a friend that knows all lot more than me. His method is not to touch the caliper bolts at all. Just remove the 2 x 16mm caliper bracket bolts, push back the piston, take off the whole brake assembly then replace pads and rotors.
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08-19-2017, 04:07 PM	#44
bucketfoot Captain 1064 Rep 819 Posts Drives: 2020 Toyota GT86 Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Centennial, CO iTrader: (0)	I ended up going with StopTech slotted rotors paired with Hawk HPS 5.0 pads. Took it out on some nearby country roads to bed the brakes and am very happy with the initial feel and stopping power. I look forward to seeing how they feel on the track the next time I get out (should be the end of Sept).
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