Spring/Coilover DIY tips & tricks?

[D Unit]

Since the e84 and e90 share the same rear suspension, I already sourced a good DIY here for the back. This part should be easy peasy, but I will be adding adjustable e90 upper control arms (camber) and e90 adjustable toe arms.

BavAuto e90 rear suspension

Any tips for the the front install? Other members have reported damaging the CV joints while trying to remove the strut assembly.
http://e84.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1004515
Is everything else straightforward?
Any special tools I need besides the spindle housing spreader show here?

[m3_tristan]

I didn't feel comfortable messing with my suspension plus I didn't want to mess up my alinement too much since I got one just before I put coils on. I had a professional shop do it.

[D Unit]

Originally Posted by tristanpaglia

I didn't feel comfortable messing with my suspension plus I didn't want to mess up my alinement too much since I got one just before I put coils on. I had a professional shop do it.

I just installed h&r springs on my wife's f30 yesterday, so hopefully they're not too different. Seems like the only issue is stretching out the CV joints when removing the front strut assembly.

I'm really hoping to save $$$ doing the coilover install myself, so I could put the $$$ towards paying the shop to do the downpipe install instead.

[PrematureApex]

It's straight forward, albeit a bit of a pain. The front end of E90 cars, xdrive or otherwise, are not great to work on.

The rear is self-explanatory. Remove the outboard camber/spring perch arm bolt to get the spring out, shock comes out with ease.

For the front...which is 99% of the battle...

Leave the top of the strut bolted into the tower...and find a way to get enough droop to drop the knuckle off of the bottom of the strut assembly. That may include using something to spread the knuckle clevis wider than that tool can do. Standing on the rotor, hammering, etc. It can be a battle.

Tips:

Make sure to disconnect the front sway bar in an effort to get enough droop travel to get the bottom of the strut out of the knuckle. If that's not enough, loosen the inboard control arm and tension strut bolts a hair. This will allow the arm drop lower. Although, in doing so...you risk popping the inboard CV joint out. Not a big deal though, if it pops out, align the axle generally straight and smack the end of the axle with a big hammer until it pops back in. Tighten the control arm bolts after you have jacked the knuckle generally parallel to the ground to avoid massive preload.

If you're lucky, you won't need spring compressors to get enough clearance. If you do need them, fit one or two on the spring while on the car, tighten them up, this will allow you to shorten the assembly enough to clear the bottom of the knuckle.

Other thoughts...

If this is my car, I'm ordering Strongflex poly front control arm bushings, at least for the tension struts, to do while I'm at it getting dirty. The stock hydros are horrid. A good impact gun and harbor freight bearing press/ball joint kit will get them new ones installed. best modification every for steering feel.

http://e84.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1234161

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1236485

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by tristanpaglia

I didn't feel comfortable messing with my suspension plus I didn't want to mess up my alinement too much since I got one just before I put coils on. I had a professional shop do it.

Your professional shop is going to alter the alignment just as much as you would.

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by D Unit

I

I'm really hoping to save $$$ doing the coilover install myself, so I could put the $$$ towards paying the shop to do the downpipe install instead.

This will take you longer than the DP install, for sure. You can do that yourself with relative ease.

Don't pay that shop to do any bolt-ons.

[PrematureApex]

Not sure what you're installing, but if it's just springs, don't. Go coilovers, or aftermarket shocks/struts paired with the springs. Stock dampeners aren't up to the task, at all. I didn't listen and did it twice...

[m3_tristan]

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

Your professional shop is going to alter the alignment just as much as you would.

Not really, if they know what they are doing you don't need one. I went to him before for my h&r springs before I got my coilovers and I went for an aliment. When I got the sheet my aliment was never off.

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by tristanpaglia

Not really, if they know what they are doing you don't need one. I went to him before for my h&r springs before I got my coilovers and I went for an aliment. When I got the sheet my aliment was never off.

Not trying to be rude, but perhaps you should research this stuff a bit before rebutting?

Lowering the car will certainly change its alignment. With MacPherson struts, a change in ride height is necessarily going to change your camber. And any change in camber results in a toe change. Those are indisputable facts.

http://www.anewtoronto.com/wheel%20alignment.html

In your case, may be the unsettled suspension didn't alter the alignment enough such that you were out of spec, but it was certainly changed to some degree. Like you, my alignment was still in the green 3/4 corners after installing my H&Rs and Bilsteins, but it was certainly changed to some degree by the install.

But it has nothing to do with "knowing" what you're doing. When installing the suspension, you aren't touching the tie rods, and nothing else is adjustable (sans some play in the strut tower slots). There is nothing a "professional" is doing to maintain your alignment that you wouldn't be doing.

But claiming that your alignment doesn't change after lowering the car...yeah...I wouldn't go on repeating that in public.

[AWF87M2]

With springs or coilovers install, I just let a shop do it, a lot can go wrong during DIY. The place I take it to only charges $250 4 alignment included for installing springs on my s drive 2.8i. Took them about 3.5 hrs as they had others car they had to work on.

[D Unit]

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

For the front...which is 99% of the battle...

Leave the top of the strut bolted into the tower...and find a way to get enough droop to drop the knuckle off of the bottom of the strut assembly. That may include using something to spread the knuckle clevis wider than that tool can do. Standing on the rotor, hammering, etc. It can be a battle.

Tips:

Make sure to disconnect the front sway bar in an effort to get enough droop travel to get the bottom of the strut out of the knuckle. If that's not enough, loosen the inboard control arm and tension strut bolts a hair. This will allow the arm drop lower. Although, in doing so...you risk popping the inboard CV joint out. Not a big deal though, if it pops out, align the axle generally straight and smack the end of the axle with a big hammer until it pops back in. Tighten the control arm bolts after you have jacked the knuckle generally parallel to the ground to avoid massive preload.

If you're lucky, you won't need spring compressors to get enough clearance. If you do need them, fit one or two on the spring while on the car, tighten them up, this will allow you to shorten the assembly enough to clear the bottom of the knuckle.

Other thoughts...

If this is my car, I'm ordering Strongflex poly front control arm bushings, at least for the tension struts, to do while I'm at it getting dirty. The stock hydros are horrid. A good impact gun and harbor freight bearing press/ball joint kit will get them new ones installed. best modification every for steering feel.

http://e84.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1234161

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1236485

Is the front all e90 too? Good idea using spring compressors to help remove the assembly from the car. I might give that a shot. Seems like your advice is dead on with BavAuto's too... BTW, I am installing BC coilovers with Swift springs.

I might consider the g Strongflex poly front control arm bushings too if I don't get lazy. I already have the rear e90 adjustable control arms to deal with, so I'd like to manage all this work under a day if I can... LOL.

Originally Posted by AWF87M2

With springs or coilovers install, I just let a shop do it, a lot can go wrong during DIY. The place I take it to only charges $250 4 alignment included for installing springs on my s drive 2.8i. Took them about 3.5 hrs as they had others car they had to work on.

What's your location? In the Bay Area (California) it's about $550 for labor and $100 for a good alignment.

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by D Unit

Is the front all e90 too? Good idea using spring compressors to help remove the assembly from the car. I might give that a shot. Seems like your advice is dead on with BavAuto's too... BTW, I am installing BC coilovers with Swift springs.

I might consider the g Strongflex poly front control arm bushings too if I don't get lazy. I already have the rear e90 adjustable control arms to deal with, so I'd like to manage all this work under a day if I can... LOL.

Yup, front is all E90 x-drive.

There are two ways to remove these from E90 cars, one works better with xdrives, the other RWD cars. The video shows one way which IIRC from working on my 135, is easier on RWD cars, but not on the X1. They leave the bottom of the strut in the knuckle, and get enough clearance to tip the top of the strut under the fenders.

Unlike that video,you should be able to get enough droop to drop the knuckle off the strut first with the swaybar off and the control arm bolts loosened up. Standing on the knuckle will probably get it done. In other words, leave the strut top bolted into the car, and try to drop the knuckle off the bottom first. If you can get that done, it's unlikely that you'll need to use compressors to get the assembly out from under the fender.

Getting the BCs in will be easier, as their total length will be shorter.

The rear toe arms are completely cake to install. No worries there.

Do you have a decent impact gun?

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by AWF87M2

With springs or coilovers install, I just let a shop do it, a lot can go wrong during DIY. The place I take it to only charges $250 4 alignment included for installing springs on my s drive 2.8i. Took them about 3.5 hrs as they had others car they had to work on.

There's actually very little that can go wrong, even less-so with a sdrive.

Come on people...man up. This is not at all a hard installation.

[kiloTHREE]

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

Come on people...man up. This is not at all a hard installation.

This was one of the first differences I noticed about the communities switching from the VW to the BMW side of the boat. Not sure if it's a lack of willingness or time.

[neverdone]

I'd say know how. although fir me, i have no time. I'm actually tired of working on cars, so if I want something done to it, someone else is doing it for ease of convenience.

I work out of town 2 weeks at a time so my time is better spent hanging with my family.

[AWF87M2]

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

There's actually very little that can go wrong, even less-so with a sdrive.

Come on people...man up. This is not at all a hard installation.

Actually there is quite a bit that can go wrong, like damaging the headlight level sensors for example. Seen this happen to someone that has done installs a dozen times. If I have a lot of free time like a lot of people on here I would have tackled it myself. Being on stand by all the time for my job doesn't allow for it. $250 including alignment was an hell of deal considering alignments in my area are usually around $125.

[D Unit]

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

There's actually very little that can go wrong, even less-so with a sdrive.

Come on people...man up. This is not at all a hard installation.

It's as if I'm about to storm Normandy!!!

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

Yup, front is all E90 x-drive.

There are two ways to remove these from E90 cars, one works better with xdrives, the other RWD cars. The video shows one way which IIRC from working on my 135, is easier on RWD cars, but not on the X1. They leave the bottom of the strut in the knuckle, and get enough clearance to tip the top of the strut under the fenders.

Unlike that video,you should be able to get enough droop to drop the knuckle off the strut first with the swaybar off and the control arm bolts loosened up. Standing on the knuckle will probably get it done. In other words, leave the strut top bolted into the car, and try to drop the knuckle off the bottom first. If you can get that done, it's unlikely that you'll need to use compressors to get the assembly out from under the fender.

Getting the BCs in will be easier, as their total length will be shorter.

The rear toe arms are completely cake to install. No worries there.

Do you have a decent impact gun?

Cool... Yessir on the impact gun too. Came real handy when I did my wife's f30.

BTW, I found an x1 specific rear install on youtube...

[themishmosh]

Originally Posted by D Unit

Any special tools I need besides the spindle housing spreader show here?

Just get any cheap adapter socket with a 1/4" head on the end. The square 1/4" driver head fits perfectly and when you turn it 45 degrees, spreads the perfect amount. Do not use a 1/4" driver as the head will likely be damaged a little from doing so.

As I said in my thread, if your axle pops out, do not man-handle it back in. Get it aligned and jiggle it back in to avoid one of the bearing popping loose. Also, when looking at how2's, pay attention if they are working on xdrive. what works on RWD may not work on xdrive when doing the fronts.

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by AWF87M2

Actually there is quite a bit that can go wrong, like damaging the headlight level sensors for example. Seen this happen to someone that has done installs a dozen times. If I have a lot of free time like a lot of people on here I would have tackled it myself. Being on stand by all the time for my job doesn't allow for it. $250 including alignment was an hell of deal considering alignments in my area are usually around $125.

Jesus man. Yeah, detaching the headlight lever arm is just so tough. And it would certainly be nothing short of a travesty should your forget to do that step, and damage a freaking $40 sensor or, more likely, the $10 lever arm. That's your example of what can "go wrong". The head light level sensor? The pussification of America continues.

This is a thread about suspension installation tips. "Take it to a shop" is hardly helpful.

You have a good deal on install costs? Value your time different than others? Don't have the tools, time, or ability to DIY? That's great. No one has any problem with having someone work on your car for you, for any number of legitimate reasons. But don't act like it's because this is a hard, or at all risky installation. In fact, this is relatively easy comparatively. If you have nothing to contribute, why post? Don't discourage others from doing their own work, after all, isn't that completely opposite of what someone should want to see on an enthusiast's forum?

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by themishmosh

As I said in my thread, if your axle pops out, do not man-handle it back in. Get it aligned and jiggle it back in to avoid one of the bearing popping loose. Also, when looking at how2's, pay attention if they are working on xdrive. what works on RWD may not work on xdrive when doing the fronts.

While of course take your time and try to get it back in with as little force as possible, at least for me, it took a good wack with a hammer/block of wood on the knuckle to pop it back in once aligned.

[AWF87M2]

"Pussification"? Really? Seems like all the responses you make towards others disagreeing with you are nothing short of cynical. I am simply stating my opinion, you don't have to agree with me. Whenever someone sees to disagree with your view on things you start budging in and try to start a heated argument with them. Seems like you have a lot of time on your hands, good for you, my comment discourages someone from doing the install themselves? We are all adults here I'm sure we are all old enough to determine if the diy is something we can or worth tackling ourselves. Even the most experienced diyers make mistakes, that are life threatening. Sometimes injuries are from unexpected failures of jackstands on a single corner. $125 is a small price to pay and I am just simply stating that at this price, it is better to let a shop do it then investing in money for tools and time to do it yourself. You act like an anarchist I'm done arguing with you, just pray that one day your jack stands don't decide to fail at a bad time while you're working on your car crippling you. Have a nice day.

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

Jesus man. Yeah, detaching the headlight lever arm is just so tough. And it would certainly be nothing short of a travesty should your forget to do that step, and damage a freaking $40 sensor or, more likely, the $10 lever arm. That's your example of what can "go wrong". The head light level sensor? The pussification of America continues.

This is a thread about suspension installation tips. "Take it to a shop" is hardly helpful.

You have a good deal on install costs? Value your time different than others? Don't have the tools, time, or ability to DIY? That's great. No one has any problem with having someone work on your car for you, for any number of legitimate reasons. But don't act like it's because this is a hard, or at all risky installation. In fact, this is relatively easy comparatively. If you have nothing to contribute, why post? Don't discourage others from doing their own work, after all, isn't that completely opposite of what someone should want to see on an enthusiast's forum?

[AWF87M2]

Originally Posted by D Unit

Is the front all e90 too? Good idea using spring compressors to help remove the assembly from the car. I might give that a shot. Seems like your advice is dead on with BavAuto's too... BTW, I am installing BC coilovers with Swift springs.

I might consider the g Strongflex poly front control arm bushings too if I don't get lazy. I already have the rear e90 adjustable control arms to deal with, so I'd like to manage all this work under a day if I can... LOL.




What's your location? In the Bay Area (California) it's about $550 for labor and $100 for a good alignment.

I'm located in soCal. I used to live in bay area so I know a few shops that won't try to rip you off in labor. $550 is way to high. You can give Alekshop in freemont a call. I believe they are a vendor on here as well. Or Edge Motorsports in Mountain View. That is if you don't decide to diy yourself.