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      12-08-2016, 10:05 AM   #1
SharpAndCunning
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Anyone Change Thier Pads Yet

My brakes are coming due soon(only 24k miles, I guess the last owner used them a lot) and it's coming up that I need a replacement break level sensor.

What's the deal with this? Anyone else do them yourself? I was going to use Duralast Ceremac pads, as I've had good luck with them in the past)

My in car monitor says I need them in 8000 miles, but they are just starting to squeak. :/
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      12-08-2016, 10:41 AM   #2
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Why do you need a replacement brake sensor? Did you already wear through yours?
How much pad do you have left?
Don't trust your in car monitor.
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      12-08-2016, 11:40 AM   #3
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I will say this, the wear sensors on this car and the system in general is much more of a PITA than the one on my 135 or M3. On those, I can just cut the sensor and twist the ends together, forever avoiding a warning light due to pad level.

On this car, the system is more sophisticated and that's not possible. Or at least it wasn't after I had tripped them around 30k miles. I was forced to buy a new sensor to get it to reset.
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      12-08-2016, 12:04 PM   #4
kiloTHREE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrematureApex View Post
On this car, the system is more sophisticated and that's not possible. Or at least it wasn't after I had tripped them around 30k miles. I was forced to buy a new sensor to get it to reset.
There are like 3 different "stages" of wear.
~20 Ohms new
~500 Ohms stage 1
> 1k stage 2

I don't know the exact numbers but it's something like that.
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      12-08-2016, 12:08 PM   #5
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https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E84-X1...aking/Sensors/

just buy the correct stuff. if its squeaking check how much pad you have left. squeak doesnt always mean you need brake pads. Maybe you need brake pad grease.... or a clip came off.
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      12-08-2016, 06:24 PM   #6
SharpAndCunning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrematureApex View Post
I will say this, the wear sensors on this car and the system in general is much more of a PITA than the one on my 135 or M3. On those, I can just cut the sensor and twist the ends together, forever avoiding a warning light due to pad level.

On this car, the system is more sophisticated and that's not possible. Or at least it wasn't after I had tripped them around 30k miles. I was forced to buy a new sensor to get it to reset.
So if it hasn't been tripped, can we just replace pads a little early and prevent it? I don't know what the sensor tripping looks like, I'm assuming a light on the dash?

I'll pull a wheel or two off this weekend and look. They are only squeaking at this point when going like 2-3mph in traffic. Started a couple days ago. Car shows 8000 miles for brakes.

I just can't fathom having to buy a sensor.
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      12-08-2016, 06:54 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiloTHREE View Post
There are like 3 different "stages" of wear.
~20 Ohms new
~500 Ohms stage 1
> 1k stage 2

I don't know the exact numbers but it's something like that.
Yeah, I suppose it's worth measuring a new sensor, and taking a trip to radioshack. If nothing else, it will give others a solution to disabling these stupid things like we could before.
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      12-08-2016, 06:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrematureApex View Post
Yeah, I suppose it's worth measuring a new sensor, and taking a trip to radioshack. If nothing else, it will give others a solution to disabling these stupid things like we could before.
Can't you just take it out of the caliper and tie it out of the way, that way it will never wear down and never throw an error code.
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      12-08-2016, 07:03 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrematureApex View Post
Yeah, I suppose it's worth measuring a new sensor, and taking a trip to radioshack. If nothing else, it will give others a solution to disabling these stupid things like we could before.

I like the way you think!
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      12-09-2016, 11:09 AM   #10
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My brakes squeak and I have plenty of life left on my pads. I think it is because there is insufficient lubricant on the back of my pads (where they come in contact with the caliper). I want to fix it, but I will wait until I have to change my pads because it requires the same amount of work.

My calipers (especially clips) are pretty rusted. Before this X1, I had a 2004 E53 X5. Those calipers and clips NEVER rusted, and I drove that car for 11 years. I also took trips to salty beaches with that X5. My X1 has lived in CO its whole life. Interesting... Maybe the caliper materials were higher quality on my X5
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      12-09-2016, 09:05 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LevinBR View Post
My brakes squeak and I have plenty of life left on my pads. I think it is because there is insufficient lubricant on the back of my pads (where they come in contact with the caliper). I want to fix it, but I will wait until I have to change my pads because it requires the same amount of work.

My calipers (especially clips) are pretty rusted. Before this X1, I had a 2004 E53 X5. Those calipers and clips NEVER rusted, and I drove that car for 11 years. I also took trips to salty beaches with that X5. My X1 has lived in CO its whole life. Interesting... Maybe the caliper materials were higher quality on my X5
This is reassuring. I'm going to take a front and a rear wheel off this weekend and have a look. Just in case they are wearing, I don't want to ruin a rotor. I think I still have a can of the stop squeal from when I did my girlfriends brakes, I'll just spray the back of the pads and hope.

It's a little frustrating. My Genesis brakes never squeaked, and that car stopped 10x better than the X1. I hope this isn't just the beginning....
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      12-10-2016, 12:32 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpc647 View Post
It's a little frustrating. My Genesis brakes never squeaked, and that car stopped 10x better than the X1. I hope this isn't just the beginning....
I didn't like my brakes either until I changed the tires... Just saying
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      12-10-2016, 09:18 AM   #13
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Don't put Duralast pads on a new BMW. OEM or high quality aftermarket only.

Check to see how much pad is left, post a picture. Probably a lot left at 24k.

Don't put new wear sensors on used pads to save a buck.

Do a few hard stops from 60mph to re-bed the pads and see if the squeaking goes away, the pads might need a re-bed.
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      12-10-2016, 11:43 PM   #14
SharpAndCunning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burnout8488 View Post
Don't put Duralast pads on a new BMW. OEM or high quality aftermarket only.

Check to see how much pad is left, post a picture. Probably a lot left at 24k.

Don't put new wear sensors on used pads to save a buck.

Do a few hard stops from 60mph to re-bed the pads and see if the squeaking goes away, the pads might need a re-bed.

I plan on taking a wheel off tomorrow. It's definitely on the left side.

What's wrong with Duralast pads? They are ceremic, and I thought they were very comparable to Ferado pads that come stock on Brembo Systems.
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      12-12-2016, 08:17 AM   #15
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Brake Photo's








Back:






So there's plenty of pad left, and they are making noise. Do you guys notice your factory pads are noisy?

We got a few inches of snow this morning, so I could do a couple of hard stops, but I will try it.

Looking at these does make me miss my brembo's a little bit. 15 minute pad changes. They slid right out. :/

So if a couple of hard stops don't do the trick, it looks like I'll be throwing a set of ceremic pads on a car that doesn't actually need brakes.

Last edited by SharpAndCunning; 12-12-2016 at 10:16 AM..
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      12-12-2016, 10:21 AM   #16
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Some people may frown upon this, but why not just take your rotors off and get them turned? It's like 40 bucks for a set of 4 and your rotors look fairly new so they won't take much material... Just something to try instead of spending 120 on pads all around when your pads are pretty darn new anyhow.
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      12-12-2016, 02:02 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiloTHREE View Post
Some people may frown upon this, but why not just take your rotors off and get them turned? It's like 40 bucks for a set of 4 and your rotors look fairly new so they won't take much material... Just something to try instead of spending 120 on pads all around when your pads are pretty darn new anyhow.
Aren't the pads what make noise though? Because they've got metallic compounds?
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      12-12-2016, 04:05 PM   #18
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Why not just take some rough sandpaper to the pads then? Not to take much off, just to score the surface
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      12-13-2016, 08:11 AM   #19
SharpAndCunning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstolpner View Post
Why not just take some rough sandpaper to the pads then? Not to take much off, just to score the surface
That's not a bad idea. That could very well help.

But if I'm going to go through the trouble of removing the caliper, I'd probably just put a new set of ceramics on them, and not have to worry about this every again.

I think I'm just a little bitter about it. I've never had brakes squeak like this.
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      12-14-2016, 05:21 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiloTHREE View Post
Some people may frown upon this, but why not just take your rotors off and get them turned? It's like 40 bucks for a set of 4 and your rotors look fairly new so they won't take much material... Just something to try instead of spending 120 on pads all around when your pads are pretty darn new anyhow.
Everything I've heard said the rotors are already near minimum thinness, and it's recommended to put new rotors everytime.

If my rotors aren't too bad, I'll always just pad slap myself, but never turn.

Tire rack has a very good review of Centric posi-quiet that act like OEM, have very little dust, and no squeel which is what I'll try.
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      12-14-2016, 08:07 AM   #21
kiloTHREE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0w40X1 View Post
Everything I've heard said the rotors are already near minimum thinness, and it's recommended to put new rotors everytime.
Most rotors have 2-4mm before reaching minimum spec.
Typically you take off about 0.5mm when resurfacing.
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      12-14-2016, 08:50 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0w40X1 View Post
Everything I've heard said the rotors are already near minimum thinness, and it's recommended to put new rotors everytime.

If my rotors aren't too bad, I'll always just pad slap myself, but never turn.

Tire rack has a very good review of Centric posi-quiet that act like OEM, have very little dust, and no squeel which is what I'll try.

Wow. Those are pretty cheap, even in the ceremic form. They can be had online for ~45. Might be a better option than the Duralast. Although, the duralast have a lifetime warranty.
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