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      10-22-2016, 12:14 AM   #1
kry226
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Failed Transfer Case Fluid Change

At my wits' end.

I attempted a set of drive train fluid changes yesterday (6HP transmission, F/R differentials and transfer case).

The transmission and diff fluid changes actually went pretty well... and then I hit the transfer case.

My 35i has the ATC35L transfer case with no drain plug (like the rear diff). OK, no problem. I was prepared for that and had a suction pump handy, but I COULDN'T GET THE TUBE DOWN INTO THE CASE! Within an inch or so, you run into the wall of the case or other internal structures. We even tried stepping down in tube diameter... NO GO.

We were able to skim about 150-200 ml out of the case but that's it.

So, what am I doing wrong? And is there a better way to completely replace the fluid?
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      10-31-2016, 12:36 PM   #2
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Ever figure it out?

I used a very very thin hose and was able to snake it down. (Stepped down to it using other various sizes of hose) Ended up getting exactly 500mL out.
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      11-01-2016, 01:11 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burnout8488 View Post
Ever figure it out?

I used a very very thin hose and was able to snake it down. (Stepped down to it using other various sizes of hose) Ended up getting exactly 500mL out.
Not yet. But I'm planning on doing the same as you. I've got a line on some very small fuel hose off Amazon I'm going to try. I'll report back how it goes.

But at the end of the day, it's like BMW actually tries to make these things difficult to maintain.
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      02-27-2017, 11:54 AM   #4
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Resurrecting this thread to find out if anyone else have had strategies/ideas to tackle this.
I was using another X1 owner's instruction and his X1's TC had the drain plug. Well I crawled under mine and discovered my TC doesn't!
For some reason I thought the ATC 35L was for x35i models (35L... 35i) and that x28i has the ATC 350 (with drain plug per realoem). But am wrong.
After some digging around on the interweb, the newer ATC 35L is 10lbs lighter. Based on rough visual estimates, the 35L has less "fins" vs the 350 and seems to be a bit thinner at the bottom part.

Looks like I will have to get a thin tube. Is removal of the braces required?
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      02-27-2017, 12:07 PM   #5
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I believe the crossmember does need to come down. The xfer case and transmission will need to be rested on a jack.

You'll be able to get out 500mL of fluid with a very thin and rigid tube attached to a vacuum pump.
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      02-27-2017, 03:56 PM   #6
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Can I use the same sized tube for brake bleeding?
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      03-07-2017, 09:14 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burnout8488 View Post
I believe the crossmember does need to come down. The xfer case and transmission will need to be rested on a jack.

You'll be able to get out 500mL of fluid with a very thin and rigid tube attached to a vacuum pump.
Just wondering did you have to reset the ECU after the oil change? Seems have to some didn't.
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      03-13-2017, 08:35 AM   #8
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I don't think we're able to reset transfer case adaptations using INPA for some reason. The dealer can, if I recall. I looked and did not find the option.
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      03-13-2017, 02:09 PM   #9
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Did you have any warning indicator about it after you replaced the fluid?

I crawled underneath the Xcase while performing the diff oil changes, it seems that a stubby 14mm 'L' hex key might work. What do you think? There seems to be about 2-3" of space.
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      03-14-2017, 07:37 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gamb1t View Post
Did you have any warning indicator about it after you replaced the fluid?

I crawled underneath the Xcase while performing the diff oil changes, it seems that a stubby 14mm 'L' hex key might work. What do you think? There seems to be about 2-3" of space.
Nope, no warning. If you're doing the fluid at a low mileage anyway, the computer won't really need to adapt to the new fluid. (The old stuff wasn't degraded to the point where the xfer case had to change its programming to cope)

If I waited until 100k+ to do the transfer case fluid, then I'd imagine resetting the adaptations would be necessary.

I don't really remember what I used to do the fluid change now that it's been so long, but I think I used a normal 3/8" drive hex socket on a normal ratchet to do the job. I had the whole transmission sagged down on a floor jack for better access.
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      04-18-2017, 12:04 AM   #11
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Update!

I finally got around to changing the Tcase oil @~60,000km. I left the brace on. It was quite tight and I have fairly slim fingers.

I bought a 14mm Hex socket and hammered out the bit.
With a bit of fiddling and patience, I was able to get it through the gap to loosen the fill/drain plug. Then it was just a matter of ratcheting slowly.

Yes a small tube is recommended to suck out the original fluid.
I managed to remove abit over 350ml after all. Just like the diff oils, the fluid was dark.
I used the BMW branded Tcase (1000ml) oil. Ended up filling > 400ml. Going to keep the rest for future change..... years from now.

Key tools for the "brace-on" method:
- 14mm Hex bit
- 14mm box/open ratchet
- Mallet to knock the plug loose
- Small diameter tube

Last edited by Gamb1t; 04-18-2017 at 12:40 PM..
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      01-16-2018, 12:18 PM   #12
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Fluid Removal Solution

I am interested in doing this job this summer. I, too, have the ATC 35L transfer case without a drain plug.

After observing the schematics of this T case, my idea is this:

1) Put the car on jack stands or a lift so that the wheels are free to rotate
2) After gaining access to the fill hole, insert tube and rotate front drive shaft counter clockwise. This will turn the gear which the tube is touching so that it pulls the tube down (into bottom of case).

Possible Caveats:

- Tube may be blocked by something other than a gear, in which case this method would not help.
- Unable to turn front drive shaft counter clockwise, but I'm pretty sure you can with the car off and in park. (I played with this when doing tranny fluid)
- Turning front drive shaft will not rotate other gears
- Space next to gear is simply too narrow for certain sized tubes

Thoughts?
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      01-16-2018, 03:26 PM   #13
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I'm not sure why you have to do that. I'd be careful that the tube doesn't get stuck inside the gearing. Then you'd be in a real bind.
Isn't the prop shaft locked in gear in 'P'?

Just be patient. I moved the tube to various spots while extracting the original fluid out. It's a PITA because it is tight in there. Removing the brace does make it easier but poses other challenges.
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      06-15-2018, 10:30 AM   #14
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It’s pretty simple. Taking out the bolt that goes through the mount was the hardest part. Fluid was really dark ~70k miles and don’t think it had been replaced before. Took out about 400ml out and same amount went back in. Didn’t do the TC reset either and so far ~100miles and no light.
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