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      11-25-2017, 03:06 AM   #1
Vegasheat
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Timing chain issue concerning

This timing chain (guide) issue has me regretting the purchase of my first BMW in 20 years. I was happy to hear the N-20 had a chain and not a belt. I remember the BMW 4 cylinder engines of the past were bullet proof if maintained.

1. Is this problem as big as the forum claims or is it very few in reality?

2. Are people paying independent shops to replace this proactively? If yes how much?

Too me this is the real issue, carbon build up that cost $400 to have blasted out is maintenance.

I really love this car and am happy I purchased an extended COP unlimited milage 4 year warranty but am still wishing I never purchased my x1. I don’t like plastic cheap parts that can destroy a $24,000 engine at any time.
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      11-25-2017, 06:24 AM   #2
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There have been cases of timing chain guide failure. Statistically few in the grand scheme. Plastic chain guides are used in many engines.

Failure normally starts with a bad tensioner, which can be heard as excess chain noise. The slop on the chain breaks the plastic guide, which either causes skipped timing and/or seized oil pump.

Guidance is to keep up the oil changes (this maintains both the lubricity on the guide and healthy tensioner).

The guide was redesigned for 2015+ n20's. There has been no conclusive evidence the redesign addresses this particular "issue". Could simply be new part supplier.


To recap - statistically low failure rates. Good potential to avoid.


On the carbon buildup issue,
Walnut blasting is an effective, expensive maintenance for carbon buildup on valves.
Seafoam (injected into the intake) is a good lower cost, simpler alternative.

Some say an oil catch can on the pcv line will mitigate carbon buildup. It might.


I wouldn't regret the N20 engine. The normal engine noise may sound very unrefined, and almost diesel-like, but there are many reliable high-milage examples around.

Happy Driving!
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      11-25-2017, 10:18 AM   #3
0w40X1
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So please tell us about your carbon buildup; symptoms, miles, oil and gas used, etc.
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      11-25-2017, 10:29 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0w40X1 View Post
So please tell us about your carbon buildup; symptoms, miles, oil and gas used, etc.
I have no carbon buildup symptoms. I just purchased my CPO X1 and joined this group for tips and started reading this forum. I already found a shop that performs the service for $250 if I ever have issues. I plan on having oil service every 6k miles.
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      11-25-2017, 03:09 PM   #5
0w40X1
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You mentioned $400 to clean carbon.

Run Top Tier gas, and or put Techron from auto parts store in when idle acts up.

Yeah, I know direct injected engines supposed to carbon worse with oil fumes or leaky valve guides dripping oil.

I'd more worry about $700 for a new battery, but I can beat that price, too.
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      11-25-2017, 03:19 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0w40X1 View Post
You mentioned $400 to clean carbon.

Run Top Tier gas, and or put Techron from auto parts store in when idle acts up.

Yeah, I know direct injected engines supposed to carbon worse with oil fumes or leaky valve guides dripping oil.

I'd more worry about $700 for a new battery, but I can beat that price, too.
And where is your battery source? That’s an absurd price for a battery
Won’t these work?

https://www.batteriesplus.com/batter...l4-2.0l-570cca

Last edited by Vegasheat; 11-25-2017 at 03:28 PM..
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      11-27-2017, 07:29 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0w40X1 View Post
You mentioned $400 to clean carbon.

Run Top Tier gas, and or put Techron from auto parts store in when idle acts up.

Yeah, I know direct injected engines supposed to carbon worse with oil fumes or leaky valve guides dripping oil.
Gas type is irrelevant to the carbon buildup issue on the backsides of intake valves of a DI engine (where the problem is seen).

That's the whole point, because fuel/air mixture is not being washed over the backs of the valves, carbon builds up. You can run whatever gas you want, it has no effect on the issue.
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      11-28-2017, 04:29 AM   #8
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I've seen the pics, and get that the carbon is on the intake gas free side.

I've not had any symptoms of "carboning" on this X1 nor do I expect any.

I'm presently buying the HEB unknown grocery gas because I like to live life on the edge.

Yeehaw!
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      11-28-2017, 04:23 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrematureApex View Post
That's the whole point, because fuel/air mixture is not being washed over the backs of the valves, carbon builds up. You can run whatever gas you want, it has no effect on the issue.
I don't believe BMW has the same problem that is so prevalent to VW DI engines. They have super crappy valve seals. Just google GTI Carbon build up and you'll be amazed what you see.
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      11-28-2017, 08:47 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiloTHREE View Post
I don't believe BMW has the same problem that is so prevalent to VW DI engines. They have super crappy valve seals. Just google GTI Carbon build up and you'll be amazed what you see.
The N54 six-cylinder definitely suffers more from carbon buildup than the N20/N55, seems like they were able to iron it out better later on.

The VWs inhale the oil vapor through the PCV system too, though - I don't believe their valve seals are to blame.
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      11-29-2017, 08:08 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burnout8488 View Post
The VWs inhale the oil vapor through the PCV system too, though - I don't believe their valve seals are to blame.
Almost exclusively it's the valve seals. My PCV was capped and vented into my downpipe with a slash cut nipple. Still had excessive weeping. Meth injection helped a little.
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      10-09-2018, 11:22 AM   #12
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Just reading about this carbon issue as I just picked up a 2015 X1.

In all my previous cars and boat I ran a product called Liquid Performance. Not affiliated in any way, but I swear by it in everything from my Ferrari to my boat.

Just my .02
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      10-09-2018, 03:51 PM   #13
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131k, runs perfect sounds perfect. Change oil every 10k. Original battery, no sign s yet of it getting weaker.
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      10-10-2018, 07:20 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Kevman View Post
131k, runs perfect sounds perfect. Change oil every 10k. Original battery, no sign s yet of it getting weaker.
Lucky. Most batteries I've had in Florida (not generics mind you) last about 3.5 years.

The battery in my 14 X1 is still original, must be a combination of being AGM and location in the trunk leading to less extreme heat exposure.
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      10-14-2018, 12:52 PM   #15
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Anyone had or having timing chain issues ? I'v read it's not that common but and issue non the less with the N20 engine, low and high mileage engines. 48,3xx miles and i'm not having any whining noise and the chain appears tight when i check it under the oil fill cap.

i'm not really concerned because I'm still in the 7/70 warranty fix issued by BMW, but positive feedback wouldn't hurt either.
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      10-14-2018, 01:03 PM   #16
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One thing not discussed is don't use ECO-PRO.

It runs up temps of coolant to 236 deg f instead of my normal of 215 deg f.

I wouldn't use ASS either.

Each time car is started the chain is jerked, and hotter plastic will get brittle quicker.
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      10-14-2018, 01:26 PM   #17
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I don't use ECO-PRO or ASS but I not sure about the previous owner. Car was always maintained at the BMW dealer where it was purchased so I have full maintenance records for the car. I'm doing yearly oil changes for my commute is less than 5,000 miles a year.
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      10-20-2018, 02:10 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0w40X1 View Post
One thing not discussed is don't use ECO-PRO.

It runs up temps of coolant to 236 deg f instead of my normal of 215 deg f.

I wouldn't use ASS either.

Each time car is started the chain is jerked, and hotter plastic will get brittle quicker.
I don't know how ECO-PRO's thermostat threshold would cause failure to the timing chain guide. All it does is not open the t-stat until that temp in order for the engine to reach operational temp quicker so that it is not in closed loop too long. It's for emissions purposes.

Constant stop and start operations via ASS do accelerate wear on the chain/guide. Best preventative is to switch off ASS and change oil well ahead of BMW's OCI.
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      10-20-2018, 10:54 AM   #19
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When I ran my X1 s28i without air conditioning one nice day, I thought something was really wrong. The coolant temp on my scanguage showed 236 deg f instead of the 215 deg f I was used to.
\
The second you add gas, temp starts down.

In fact when on the track car runs cooler at 209 deg f.

Using eco-pro, temp goes up to 236 deg f.

So when there's nopt much waste heat, BMW design adds heat on purpose for efficiency.

21 extra deg f COULD make plastic more brittle, and I see no need for that slight almost immeasurable economy.

Most all those Japanese cars don't get much better mileage with way less power.

Last edited by 0w40X1; 10-20-2018 at 11:01 AM..
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      10-22-2018, 02:00 PM   #20
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Our thermostat is controlled via predefined parameters. It's mentioned in the X1 Complete Vehicle documentation. Anyway here's an explanation https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...3&postcount=16

It is natural when you go faster the temp goes down because of the radiator getting more air for heat exchange. The most stressing situation is stop and go traffic. In fact if you are on sport mode, the ecu will command the thermostat to ensure coolant is flowing the entire system.

Back on topic. Since there are no coolant running into that area (if you do, you have major issues!), therefore coolant temps would have little impact on the longevity of these pieces. Cooling is done via engine oil. Hence fresh oil is key.
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      10-22-2018, 03:14 PM   #21
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In my last car I replaced the stock thermostat with one 10-20 degrees colder. Can that be done here or does the computer have all the control?
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      10-22-2018, 03:48 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gamb1t View Post
Our thermostat is controlled via predefined parameters. It's mentioned in the X1 Complete Vehicle documentation. Anyway here's an explanation https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...3&postcount=16

It is natural when you go faster the temp goes down because of the radiator getting more air for heat exchange. The most stressing situation is stop and go traffic. In fact if you are on sport mode, the ecu will command the thermostat to ensure coolant is flowing the entire system.
I didn't say I go faster.

I said the second I touch gas.

Lets say I use cruise control without AC at 70 mph; coolant temp will get up to 235 dge f or so.

Let's say I turn off cruise and maintain 70 mph with foot on gas; coolant will go down to 215 over a period of say one minute to complete.

When you don't drive hard BMW figured out to run temps up 20 deg f because car can handle it and get better economy.

Maybe it's the thermo or maybe it's the electric water pump controlling water flow.

Put a guage on yours and see for yourself.
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