Replacing front brake pads

[backslashv]

Hi,

Two questions:

1. What is the oem front brake pads' brand for the 2014 x1 sDrive 28i?

2. I've called multiple places and they charge a lot for the labor. ($160, $200, ...) Is this normal? What is a reasonable labor cost? I am thinking of buying the pads myself and just have a mechanic install them.


Thanks

[LevinBR]

Originally Posted by backslashv

Hi,

Two questions:

1. What is the oem front brake pads' brand for the 2014 x1 sDrive 28i?

2. I've called multiple places and they charge a lot for the labor. ($160, $200, ...) Is this normal? What is a reasonable labor cost? I am thinking of buying the pads myself and just have a mechanic install them.


Thanks

I believe Jurid is the OEM for BMW. I would recommend buying them online. Hawk and Akebono are also great brands.

[0w40X1]

I ran my X1 s28i on HPDE track 5 times, and found the brakes to be plenty good.

However, I'm not going to track anymore, and don't like the grabby bite, and scoring of rotors, so I put on Centric Posi-quiet Ceramic which is highly reviewed on Tirerack.com.

I bought the fronts for $48, and the rears for $30 after finding the # and Googling the best price.

I also tied up the 2 sensor wires, so I can decide when to install instead of car nanny going off.

I can easily tell when the pads are worn, since I look at calipers occasionally.

Centric Posi-Quiet Ceramic 105.10610 front 105.12670 rear

[backslashv]

Thank you both for your responses.
I found this for oem pads: https://goo.gl/NN2kNb

Can you comment on the labor cost for replacing the pads?
Also is resurfacing the rotors ok?

[0w40X1]

BMW doesn't recommend resurfacing since it gets thinner.

I put my Ceramic on when rear pads half worn to catch before rotors scored.

Unless rotors are really scored, new pads can clean them up.

Mine still have slight waves, but no vibration.

[Mirko]

I went with Akebono ceramics and love them. These pads dust very little even when compared to the StopTech High Performance Street pads I have on the 328i. Stopping power is better than the stock pads I had on the X1.

[fiehlsport]

My rears were Textar, fronts Jurid.

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by 0w40X1

I ran my X1 s28i on HPDE track 5 times, and found the brakes to be plenty good.

Please stop posting stuff like this. 1; it's irrelevant. 2; at an HPDE on an average track, for even a moderately aggressive beginner the OEM pads are borderline dangerous regarding heat capacity (fade resistance).

We get it, you didn't have any problems...which I wouldn't be boasting about, honestly.

The fact is, you simply don't use your brakes (or tires) very hard. A more aggressive driver could fade them within the first lap on a demanding track.

This isn't about driving ability mind you, it's about safety.

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by Mirko

I went with Akebono ceramics and love them. These pads dust very little even when compared to the StopTech High Performance Street pads I have on the 328i. Stopping power is better than the stock pads I had on the X1.

While I like their overall low-dust and manners, compared to the OEM pads and stoptechs, they have a big drop off in initial bite. Completely normal feeling compared to average pads, but a significant drop off compared to OEM that catch many people off guard (the common complaint with them in most reviews).

[Mirko]

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

While I like their overall low-dust and manners, compared to the OEM pads and stoptechs, they have a big drop off in initial bite. Completely normal feeling compared to average pads, but a significant drop off compared to OEM that catch many people off guard (the common complaint with them in most reviews).

Interesting, haven't noticed that but good to know. Mind you compared to the junk that PO had on there they are leaps and bounds better. They wouldn't be my first choice for a performance pad but for my daily driver they are great.

[0w40X1]

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

Please stop posting stuff like this. 1; it's irrelevant. 2; at an HPDE on an average track, for even a moderately aggressive beginner the OEM pads are borderline dangerous regarding heat capacity (fade resistance).

We get it, you didn't have any problems...which I wouldn't be boasting about, honestly.

The fact is, you simply don't use your brakes (or tires) very hard. A more aggressive driver could fade them within the first lap on a demanding track.

This isn't about driving ability mind you, it's about safety.

You don't drive a s28i to know that.

I drove mine at Circuit of the Americas 2 years ago, and stopped from 120mph on the straight to 30 mph standing on the brakes. I had no "FADE"!

You're the guy that told me that i should turn off the traction control if I even dreamed of tracking, since the traction control would kick in, and I'd lose time which isn't relevant, since it's not a race.

I learn to drive smooth to not kick it in, and when turned off, that also turns off the built in electric differential.

I don't know what it is about BMW's and BMW brakes, but everyone thinks nobody else can drive or maintain them.

Knowledge seems to either be never turned a nut or holier than thou.

[PrematureApex]

Serenity now.

But just one note:

Originally Posted by 0w40X1

I learn to drive smooth to not kick it in, and when turned off, that also turns off the built in electric differential.

No. Actually, the "e-diff" (fake LSD) is ALWAYS engaged, and can't be disabled. Maybe you'd like to re-phrase what you meant? Did you mean to the anti-yaw TC? If not, please, tell us how to disengaged the e-diff. There are threads on here illustrating how hard that is, even through coding. We've tried.

My wife fades the stock brakes on an average 1.5m road course btw. Perhaps you should pick up the pace a little...or more importantly...stop offering advice to others in the guise of a driver who's done more than a couple (apparently very slow) DE events. You think all-season tires and stock pads are fine. You clearly are not performing as many others are.

Your insistence on using your experiences as advice is down-right dangerous to many...and thus...is contrary to about all advice people give to beginners starting their adventures into DE'ing.

I know it sounds horrible...but I've never seen someone who knows so little about cars/driving in general post so much about cars and driving. Everyone would be better off if you'd post less and read more. I know it's a product of an "X1" forum...but damn man.

Again, I'm sure you're a nice guy...but your comments are ridiculous.

[0w40X1]

BMW seems to make our cars with lots of differences.

Maybe BMW gave me some super secret stuff.

I've won enough TTOD autoX to know how the tires are working, and I TELL YOU that turning off traction control turns off the E-diff making one rear spin wildly or turns feel numb.

I never said that All Seasons should be used on track, and don't like or have anywhere.

My X1 came with Pirelli P7 SUMMERS, and if you listen at end of straight of COTA, you'll hear tires chirp on braking and turning.

I see you have 3 very nice Bimmers with lots power parts, but I'm not doing free parts testing, just making most of what I drive.

Anybody can be hard on parts; my goal is to drive fast without burning them up.

Once more; I go to HPDE for FUN, and I don't wanna race. Someone always being slick and adding more stuff which comes back to: "It's all apples and oranges"!

https://youtu.be/Hsgk2aqpY6U

[HBWT]

$16o-200 for labor at an indie shop is not unreasonable...IF...
they bleed off the dirty fluid, clean and grease sticky slider pins, wire brush and apply anti-seize to the hub faces, and are smart enough to not allow you to stack dis-similar pad material...new rotors(recommended) would negate this concern.
I did my rears about 2 months ago and new Centric rotors and Akebono Ceramics work fine for DD. Fronts will likely be done in the Spring.
I recommengpd against disabling(bypassing) the wear sensors. As easy as it is to look at the outer pad, the inside pad could wear differently and leave you with backer on rotor at an inconvenient time. That, and it’s just silly to disable a system that has no downside.

[SharpAndCunning]

Originally Posted by HBWT

$16o-200 for labor at an indie shop is not unreasonable...IF...
they bleed off the dirty fluid, clean and grease sticky slider pins, wire brush and apply anti-seize to the hub faces, and are smart enough to not allow you to stack dis-similar pad material...new rotors(recommended) would negate this concern.
I did my rears about 2 months ago and new Centric rotors and Akebono Ceramics work fine for DD. Fronts will likely be done in the Spring.
I recommengpd against disabling(bypassing) the wear sensors. As easy as it is to look at the outer pad, the inside pad could wear differently and leave you with backer on rotor at an inconvenient time. That, and it’s just silly to disable a system that has no downside.

The downside to not disabling is, is that when it's activates you have to replace it, and it's a useless part that's expensive to replace. 5 years ago we didn't have brake pad sensors, and we didn't die. why do we need them now.

Originally Posted by 0w40X1

I ran my X1 s28i on HPDE track 5 times, and found the brakes to be plenty good.



I also tied up the 2 sensor wires, so I can decide when to install instead of car nanny going off.

What do you mean you tied the sensor wires? I thought there was a little chip in it that if it's disconnected it trips the car into saying brakes need replacing?

[bucketfoot]

You can cut off the ends of the sensors, strip them back and short the two leads together as the fail condition is an open connection (thus just removing them does not work).

[SharpAndCunning]

Originally Posted by bucketfoot

You can cut off the ends of the sensors, strip them back and short the two leads together as the fail condition is an open connection (thus just removing them does not work).

0w40 makes it sound like her unplugged it and zip tied it out of the way so it's still there. ha

[0w40X1]

Originally Posted by jpc647

0w40 makes it sound like her unplugged it and zip tied it out of the way so it's still there. ha

Yep, caught it all undamaged, and tied up away from brakes.

I just don't like the service nannies telling me how to run vehicle, and then, having to clear it off.

The algorithms of how long after they start wearing are off anyway.

I even keep the car date at 05/01/2017 for the last date everything was fixed up.

I only have 23k miles in 4.5 years so anything time based is wrong. Also, I disconnect battery for 3 months twice a year, since I'm pleasantly retired, and travel away from US when extreme seasons arrive.

[SharpAndCunning]

Originally Posted by 0w40X1

Yep, caught it all undamaged, and tied up away from brakes.

I just don't like the service nannies telling me how to run vehicle, and then, having to clear it off.

The algorithms of how long after they start wearing are off anyway.

I even keep the car date at 05/01/2017 for the last date everything was fixed up.

I only have 23k miles in 4.5 years so anything time based is wrong. Also, I disconnect battery for 3 months twice a year, since I'm pleasantly retired, and travel away from US when extreme seasons arrive.

Interesting. I might just have to do that. My 2014 only has 26k on it, and I know one of the sensors is new(only a couple thousand mils) because the dealership broke it during inspection.

I don't mind replacing brakes. I'll upgrade from oem pads, and get ceramics, but I don't want the sensors tripped and to be annoying.

How did you unplug them and tie them away? I'll have to do it before the weather really brakes here in Mass

[0w40X1]

Just feel the back of calipers on front drivers and rear passengers.

You can feel the wire, but you need to pull wheel, and just figure out how you like it tied.

I didn't even use zip ties.

At my car use I will always have a tire off to view inside pads by 30k miles or 6 years.

I've seen some cars eat inside, but my s28i was very even on both sides.

It's also not a daily driver, and just won't see any ice (summer tires)and very little rain.

[SharpAndCunning]

Originally Posted by Mirko

I went with Akebono ceramics and love them. These pads dust very little even when compared to the StopTech High Performance Street pads I have on the 328i. Stopping power is better than the stock pads I had on the X1.

This is really good to know. The Akebono are the only ceramics I'm finding through local parts stores. Glad you like them a lot. They have an unlimited mileage lifetime replacement too.

[PrematureApex]

Just read reviews before you buy.

While that poster said they have more bite than his OEM pads, that is 100% the opposite experience the vast majority of buyers have had (self included).

The benefits of the Ake. ceramics (and really any ceramic) are VERY low dust, easiness on the rotors and quiet operation.

Those things don't come for free...you give up the hard initial bite of the OEM pads which is a enjoyed "BMW" characteristic for many people (some people really like that feeling of instantly strong brakes) and heat capacity.

You'll certainly have to re-calibrate your braking pressure after switching them out. I found myself running up on peoples bumpers around town initially.

Personally, while I'll see them through and recommend them to family members...I generally dislike the lack of bite vs. a semi-metallic.