12-17-2015, 08:04 PM | #23 |
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FWIW, I replaced the worn out stock tires on my 2013 with the Pirellis and they've been very good - especially in the wet Northwest weather. Better than stock for sure.
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12-21-2015, 07:18 PM | #24 |
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Had a set of Conti DWS06 installed today - $842, with a local independent shop. Maybe not the cheapest, but I'm happy to keep some locals guys employed.
I've had the X1 since March, replaced one tire after picking up a nail at my BMW dealer - $310. Recently spotted unusual wear on the other rear tire - had the car in for scheduled service, and asked about a warranty on the tire, the fellow just chuckled - woulda been another $310. |
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12-22-2015, 02:17 PM | #25 | |
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Quote:
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12-22-2015, 06:51 PM | #26 |
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My thought was that it was a camber issue - the service writer twice said the pattern was consistent with an underinflated tire - I countered that my low pressure warning had never come on - he shrugged.
The Contis seem a good deal quieter, quite stable at high speed (a little over 90), no loss of confidence cornering (didn't push too hard due to rain). It was a lazy ride to work and an aggressive one home. Looks like I lost as much as 4 mpg when trying to max economy, 35 down to 31. |
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12-23-2015, 08:09 AM | #27 | |
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Quote:
Toe and/or inflation issues kill tires.
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'02 S54 M3 (500/500 GC/Koni)
'08 N54 135 (JB4, DCI, BMW PS/Bilstein B6s, H&R M3 FSB, Strongflex FCABs) '14 N55 X1 (JB4, BMS DP, BMS Intake, Alpina TCU reflash, H&R Sports, Bilstein B6s, E93 M3 RSB, Strongflex FCABs, baby seat) '08 N54 535xi touring (Bilstein B6s, Downpipes, MHD tune, baby seat) |
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12-23-2015, 10:55 AM | #29 |
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I might be wrong but from what I know wear due to tire pressure has to be symmetric on the tire itself. So if it's with on the inside of the tire, it had to be worn on the outside as well.
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12-23-2015, 01:32 PM | #30 |
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Yup, it would generally be symmetric. Either heavier down the middle or heavier toward the outsides.
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'02 S54 M3 (500/500 GC/Koni)
'08 N54 135 (JB4, DCI, BMW PS/Bilstein B6s, H&R M3 FSB, Strongflex FCABs) '14 N55 X1 (JB4, BMS DP, BMS Intake, Alpina TCU reflash, H&R Sports, Bilstein B6s, E93 M3 RSB, Strongflex FCABs, baby seat) '08 N54 535xi touring (Bilstein B6s, Downpipes, MHD tune, baby seat) |
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12-23-2015, 04:20 PM | #31 |
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It seems that it's not likely to be tire pressure, so maybe try and get that warranty claim after all. And remember you can always contact BMW NA and BMW AG to help if your dealership is less than helpful.
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12-23-2015, 09:09 PM | #32 |
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Thanks, guys. I think you're both correct, but I was ready for the new non run-flats, the new tires are on and the olds are gone. I considered posting photos of the wear pattern and asking for opinions, but rather, moved on. I do need to keep an eye on the new tires, looking for signs of wear - if it was toe, I assume it will repeat.
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12-23-2015, 11:44 PM | #33 |
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Most definitely. Might even be worth it to find a shop that will be able to assess your suspension so you can go back to your dealership and tell them to fix it.
Make sure to mention the wear pattern when you're getting the suspension checked. Alternatively buy a very accurate tread depth gauge and keep checking it every couple thousand miles (maybe more often). Once you're able to see the wear visually it's too late |
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12-30-2015, 06:27 PM | #34 |
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running a set of Hancook dedicated snow tires on my 328i x-drive.
non run-flats, and the improvement in ride quality is very noticable. my wife typically drives this car, and works close to home, so I stuffed a can of fix a flat in the trunk, and hope for the best. I miss my old '03 325xi with it's full-size matching wheel spare in the trunk.......but all those years, and it never had to be used. tires are a lot better than they used to be. jagg |
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12-30-2015, 10:44 PM | #35 |
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I am a big fan of the Conti DWS's. Had them on my Mazda3 before I traded it in for the X1. Once these tires run bald I will be buying them again. Not a fan of RFT's - going to keep an inflator in my car and if it's damaged beyond that I guess I'll have it towed.
P.S. Discount Tire carries another Conti, similar to DWS but called something else, those are the ones I had on my Mazda and were excellent. |
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12-31-2015, 01:12 AM | #36 |
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I recently got a flat on my non-RFT's and had to put the original run flats on the car. Immediately the car felt much worse. The ride was harsher, more road noise, and it didn't feel any more sporty or better connected to the road. Also the speed bumps are noticeably harsher.
Just my experience and obviously I haven't tried the other tires, but between Goodyear Eagle LS2 (RF) and Goodyear Assurance Tripletread (non-RF), I'll go with Tripletread every time. |
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01-13-2016, 06:18 PM | #39 |
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I know this will most likely cause some debate...but I am thinking of getting a set of Cooper RS3-S.
I have been using Cooper tires on various rigs over the years and they have all been excellent. I put a set of RS3-A on my Mazda 3 and they were quite and handling was great. The S is said to be excellent. In tire shootouts it has finished very well so I am thinking of giving a set a shot on whatever rims I buy for summer. |
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01-14-2016, 07:03 PM | #41 |
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Just a heads up to Ja Gio and anybody else who might be concerned - the tire pressure warning is to flag tires that are seriously low - something like 25% - and are likely to cause catastrophic failures (remember the Ford Explorers with Firestones). It's not a good indicator of proper inflation. I can't remember if the vehicle info screen shows actual pressure at the tires (?) but there's no sub for a decent pressure gauge. Don't know about the digital ones - the dial ones can be good if you spend the money.
Also improper inflation will magnify uneven wear on the low profile tires - the lower the tire the greater the influence. Car companies (decent ones) have engineered things & figured the best infllation & I always use that as a guide. Sometimes there's a reason for different pressures front to back - different loads, different tires, etc. our MSport X1 specs higher rears but they're bigger & they're the driving wheels & need better traction. My old Integra GSR specd higher front pressure than rear (front drive). A little more pressure than factory specs is usually okay & often better but you need to be careful. At least this applies to street driving. If you're tracking your car your on your own. |
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01-15-2016, 02:56 PM | #43 |
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You can reset the warning to come earlier. Overinflate your tires then reset the tpms. Then deflate the tires to proper pressure.
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01-15-2016, 04:27 PM | #44 |
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I'm not sure that would work. If you're talking about sensor based TPMS then the computer reads the actual pressure from the sensors and the reset only gets the ECU to recognize new sensors - not the new pressure from the sensors.
In case of ABS based TPMS even overinflating and deflating would keep the relative rotational frequency the same and again this would not work. This is why ABS based TPMS can't recognize an even deflating of all tires and will only show a significantly deflated single tire. |
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