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      03-09-2016, 08:08 PM   #1
vstolpner
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Review: BMW X1 Invisi EcoHitch Stealth from Torklift Central

Finally got my hands on a hitch for the car so wanted to do a full review and perhaps provide some information for those interested in doing the same.

I haven't gotten a chance to install the hitch yet, will be doing that this weekend, so for now this is just unboxing.

The hitch I got is this one here (full disclosure - this is a free sample for the purpose of a review):
http://torkliftcentral.com/rving-and...ohitch-stealth

The hitch came in a very sturdy cardboard box and was packaged very well. The box actually didn't fit in the car with the seats up, but I guess that was to be expected.

The hitch seems to be well made - thicker steel than I would have expected, the welds look to be strong, and the paint applied well and evenly.

Took some preliminary photos of the packaging and the hitch and will update with the review after I get the chance to install it.


UPDATE: See several posts below for the full review.
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Last edited by vstolpner; 03-13-2016 at 02:34 PM..
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      03-10-2016, 08:29 AM   #2
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Do we think it will safely do more than 2000 lbs.?

Probably towing a 5x8 U-haul across country next summer. It's ~1k empty. I've seen some other X1 options in the 2500-3000lb. range iirc.
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      03-10-2016, 10:19 AM   #3
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Looks to be a nice design. Nice install video on their website:


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      03-10-2016, 10:36 AM   #4
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From what I gathered the main point of this hitch is that you can remove the receiver from the support structure to make it completely invisible (hence the "Invisi" in the name). But because of that they don't have the long piece of metal that ties further in to the frame of the car and would normally bear the pulling weight. Probably save reason why the tongue weight is only 200lbs vs 300-400lbs on other hitches.

Keep in mind I'm no expert in this. I will get in touch with the company and find out for you.
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      03-10-2016, 11:11 AM   #5
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Yes, just like the execuhitch, but cheaper and with less capacity.
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      03-10-2016, 05:33 PM   #6
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So the official answer is:
"Our hitch is rated for 2,000 lbs. and we do not suggest going over that weight. It’s rated and tested at that specific weight and towing or having tongue weight that is more than recommended can possibly break the hitch and possibly cause damage to the car."
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      03-11-2016, 10:03 AM   #7
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Hey vstolpner,

I installed that same hitch on my car last summer. I am not sure if they updated the instructions, but there were some processes and torque values that were way off.....

You will absolutely need to stack washers under the back plate of the hitch where it contacts the bumper beam stud plate which has a lip. If you do not fill in the lip with washers, the lip will deform. Also, they had a torque spec which would have snapped the studs. As I was tightening the bolts with my torque wrench I began to get nervous.....I stopped and did a little research. If you need additional insight, reach out to me. I did take pictures and have an email thread with ecohitch discussing this that I can forward on to you.

Aside from that, the hitch seems awesome, really stealthy. I opted for the 1-1/4" to use with bike racks. The receiver part does twist a little from time to time and makes a very minor creak or knocking noise, no biggie. Only when I have a bike loaded and am railing turns.
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      03-11-2016, 10:16 AM   #8
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Her geomanic,

Thanks for the details. Would be great if you can send me some photos about the washers you were talking about and the torque details. I'll PM you my details.

And I ended up going for the 2" receiver to make sure I have a good connection with the bike rack... 1 1/4" just seemed a little small.
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      03-13-2016, 02:34 PM   #9
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Full Review

So finally got around to installing the hitch in the car over the weekend.
Thanks geomanic for your suggestions - very helpful!

First off, this is definitely best done with a friend - the hitch and the crush bar are actually rather heavy when considering that you need to position both sides at the same time.

Now for the review:

Getting the bumper off wasn't too difficult but it was more time consuming than I thought - probably spent half the time just taking it off. I used a pair of ramps to raise the rear of the car and that gave more than enough access underneath.

Once the bumper was off I realised that I don't need to completely take off the crush bar in order to install the hitch, and that made things both easier and harder. It was harder to position the hitch, but it did allow for easier install of the washers (thanks @geomanic).
NOTE: the crush bar's lip is such that you DO need those washers in order to bend that lip - not sure why they wouldn't just include them or, better yet, weld on an extension to the brackets.

After I finally got the hitch positioned, and the washers in, I realised that the hitch was a touch too wide (nearly stripped one of the screws installing it), but with a little bit of massaging I got it on.

There is a small part of the hitch that I'm a little confused about and I'll be reaching out to the company to get a better understanding of it - the hitch has a section that clamps on to the crush bar. This doesn't make much sense to me as the crush bar is not meant to bear any weight (and I don't believe it can in fact), so I'm not sure what the purpose of that is. But I'll provide an update after I hear back.

Putting everything back in place was a piece of cake. My last issue that I ran into was that the bumper was actually bigger at the bottom and covered part of the hitch assembly such that I couldn't install the receiver. A few minutes with a dremel tool rectified that however.

I haven't had a chance to install bike rack onto the hitch yet, but I was able to stand on the receiver and jump up and down without sensing any weaknesses (I'm about 200 lbs - so right at the tongue weight limit). Also the bottom of the receiver sits about 10" off the ground with an empty car - in case anyone is interested.

Overall I'm very satisfied with the hitch and the installation process. I love the fact that I can remove the receiver bit with just leaving the hitch assembly hidden behind the bumper. Would definitely recommend the hitch to anyone else.


Included photos:
1. The receiver part of the hitch that disconnects from the assembly to completely hide the assembly (best part of this hitch)
2. Before photo of the bumper covering the hitch assembly opening (bumper preventing the receiver from being installed)
3. Bottom of bumper after a few minutes with a dremel tool to allow the receiver to be installed
4. Rear view of the car with the hitch fully installed
5. Low view to show the clearance of the hitch
6. 10" clearance with an empty car
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      03-15-2016, 02:41 PM   #10
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Cool

Hey vstolpner

Great write up, I also purchased this hitch, but have not had the chance to install it yet. Only option really since I do not have the mega sunroof. As far as trailer wiring, what did you choose. I have a local shop that is recommending a new harness that runs along side the signal wires with no splicing or cutting involved, claims that it does not interfere with the CAN system on the BMW. I would prefer a plug and play scenario. If you have any photos regarding your comment about the washers, would be great. I have looked at the install sheet several times, and still cannot understand the necessity of extra washers if all the lock nuts are at their proper height. I know a picture is worth a thousand words.
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      03-15-2016, 04:40 PM   #11
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CSPM,
Glad you liked the review. I don't have photos of where the washers would go but it's pretty obvious once you have the crush bar and the tow hitch together (the washers would go in between the crush bar and the tow hitch, 4 per bolt so 16 in total, but get extras in case one gets away on you). Keep in mind that this is also why I had to cut the bumper a bit. The alternative would be to grind down the lip on the crush bar in which case you wouldn't need the washers and wouldn't need to cut the bumper.

I think the manual used an older model that didn't have the lip on the crush bar bracket. Like I said, once you have the bumper off it becomes fairly obvious.

If you're still not sure let me know and I'll try and dig up a photo online and allow on there.
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      06-13-2017, 12:41 PM   #12
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Long Term Review?

Hey I just joined this forum looking for info on the EcoHitch vs. Curt or Draw-Tite options. Appreciate the install details, makes me confident I could DIY and save the dealer install fee. Now that you've had it for a year, any comments on the functionality or stability? I'd be using primarily for bike rack but might also hook up a small utility trailer once in a while. I wondered if the removable receiver might add more wobble to the bike rack, since there are now two bolted connections between the car and the rack? Any feedback would be appreciated!
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      08-03-2017, 02:07 PM   #13
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Any additional feedback?

I have the exact same question as Speedy46.

Any additional feedback on EcoHitch vs. Curt or Draw-Tite options?

I'm looking for a 2" hitch on my 2015 X1 (with panoramic sunroof). I'll usually carry 2 bikes but will carry 4 at times. When carrying 4, it will be 2 road and 2 mountain.

Based on my research so far, here are my thoughts:


1) EcoHitch STEALTH x7269

Lightest towing capacity & tongue weight.
200 Max tongue weight
2000 total tow weight

EcoHitch pros: Does not compromise vehicle crumple zones. Sounds like a big one.
EcoHitch cons: Price and install difficulty.


2) Curt C13140
250 Max tongue weight
2500 total tow weight
Distance from center of hitch pin opening to outer part of rear bumper - 2 ¾“
Distance of top inside edge of receiver opening to ground - 13 ½“

Apparently requires a stabilization strap that runs from the rack up to the top of the rear hatch door (when attaching non-trailer loads, i.e. bike racks). Curt says this will reduce the wobble of the rack.

-- I totally hate the idea of attaching a stabilization strap above the rear hatch door. It will inevitably mar the paint over time.

Curt pros: Apparently the install ends up a bit cleaner. See "Draw-Tite cons" below.
Curt cons: Stabilization strap. If I go with the Curt, I'll skip the stabilization strap and just accept whatever wobble there is.

Apparently compromises vehicle crumple zones because of attachment point at vehicle A-Frame. For anyone interested, this can be seen during the install video at etailer: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hit...leid=201514198


3) Draw-Tite Class 3 Receiver Hitch #75761
400 Max tongue weight
3500 total tow weight
Distance from center of hitch pin opening to outer part of rear bumper - 2“
Distance of top inside edge of receiver opening to ground - 13“

Draw-Tite pros: Most sturdy. Does not require stabilization strap (as the Curt does).
Draw-Tite cons: Apparently the end of the receiver protrudes past the edge of the rear bumper a bit. This according to the installation video at etrailer: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hit...leid=201514989

Apparently compromises vehicle crumple zones because of attachment point at vehicle A-Frame. (can be seen in installation video).


At this point I'm leaning towards the Draw-Tite because of its sturdiness and tongue weight max. I anticipate my rack + 2 mountain bikes + 2 road bikes might add up to 150 pounds.


Thanks in advance for any comments.
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      08-03-2017, 03:13 PM   #14
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I chose draw-tite for the greater tongue weight. A sturdy rack plus 4 bikes, or loaded cargo carrier, can press the limit of others. I like the way it looks on my X1.
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      08-04-2017, 05:08 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSPM View Post
Hey vstolpner

Great write up, I also purchased this hitch, but have not had the chance to install it yet. Only option really since I do not have the mega sunroof. As far as trailer wiring, what did you choose. I have a local shop that is recommending a new harness that runs along side the signal wires with no splicing or cutting involved, claims that it does not interfere with the CAN system on the BMW. I would prefer a plug and play scenario. If you have any photos regarding your comment about the washers, would be great. I have looked at the install sheet several times, and still cannot understand the necessity of extra washers if all the lock nuts are at their proper height. I know a picture is worth a thousand words.
So, this hitch is compatible with X1's without a sunroof? And of the three hitches mentioned, this is the only one that will accommodate a non-sunroof X1. Just clarifying. And thanks.
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      08-06-2017, 10:46 PM   #16
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So I purchased and installed the 2" EcoHitch for my '14 X1 a couple weeks ago. I just finished a 2000 mile road trip with a Yakima Dr Tray holding a road and mountain bike mounted on the hitch. I was very happy with the finished install and it only took about 1.5 hours (thanks to the reviews by others). I may pull a trailer in the future, but haven't wired for lights yet.

To answer forteatwo, the EcoHitch will definitely work on non-pano models, because it only attaches at the crush-bar mounts. This is the reason I ultimately chose it over the Draw-Tite, because it doesn't defeat the crumple zone. Probably won't ever matter, but might keep a minor rear-end collision from being a totaled vehicle due to bent subframe?

I was worried that the additional bolted connection for the invisible hitch might make this hitch a bit flexy, but as far as I've seen it's very stout. I can rock the whole car by wiggling a bike on the rack, with no visible flex in between.
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