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      04-05-2018, 11:49 AM   #1
SharpAndCunning
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Who's Running a JB4 and a stock Chargepipe?

Just wanted to see who's had any luck with running a JB4 stage 1 with a stock Chargepipe.

I've seen people have issues under stock boost.

I'm really torn between a jb+ and a jb4 stage 1. A used jb4 stage 1 is less than $50 more than a new jb+ (haven't seen any used ones), and I'm wondering if it makes more sense. But I don't want to mod extensively. And I don't really want grief over a chargepipe if I take it in for service.


It seems as if there isn't much difference between the JB4 Stage 1 and the JB+. The stage 1 can't control fuel, and it doesn't allow you to clear codes, so why spend the extra money?

Last edited by SharpAndCunning; 04-07-2018 at 10:29 AM..
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      04-05-2018, 12:55 PM   #2
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I bought a JB4 for my '13 35i, and never installed it. NIB, or rather, envelope. For sale if you're interested.
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      04-05-2018, 01:30 PM   #3
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No one should care about a mere charge pipe, it is almost preventative maintenance - unless your engine blows and they see you have a JB4.

As far as running a stock charge pipe, there are too many variables. I blew my stock charge pipe and had to have my car towed because it went into limp mode before I got my aftermarket pipe, which I had next day aired to fix the problem.
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      04-06-2018, 07:50 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeevette View Post
I bought a JB4 for my '13 35i, and never installed it. NIB, or rather, envelope. For sale if you're interested.
I appreciate the offer, but the JB4 seems overkill for my plans. While yes, I may order a charge pipe and an exhaust, that's where my modifications are going to stop. The X1 is already unreliable enough, a few more psi is all I'm comfortable adding.
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      04-06-2018, 08:17 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpc647 View Post
I appreciate the offer, but the JB4 seems overkill for my plans. While yes, I may order a charge pipe and an exhaust, that's where my modifications are going to stop. The X1 is already unreliable enough, a few more psi is all I'm comfortable adding.
What vast reliability issues surround the N55?
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      04-06-2018, 09:31 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by hooligan_clt View Post
What vast reliability issues surround the N55?
Wastegage rattle. Chargepipes. Valves Carboning up. Fan motors (for the HVAC) dying/whistling(more x1 specific). Stupid things that shouldn't happen on 45k+ car.
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      04-06-2018, 11:38 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpc647 View Post
I appreciate the offer, but the JB4 seems overkill for my plans. While yes, I may order a charge pipe and an exhaust, that's where my modifications are going to stop. The X1 is already unreliable enough, a few more psi is all I'm comfortable adding.
Dont think theres after market exhausts for our cars unless you are taking about a downpipe.
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      04-06-2018, 03:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpc647 View Post
Wastegage rattle. Chargepipes. Valves Carboning up. Fan motors (for the HVAC) dying/whistling(more x1 specific). Stupid things that shouldn't happen on 45k+ car.
I don't think I can consider the charge pipe a reliability issue - besides it isn't catastrophic, and easily prevented. Is it a stupid issue? Most definitely.
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      04-06-2018, 05:17 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcdanielvzw View Post
I don't think I can consider the charge pipe a reliability issue - besides it isn't catastrophic, and easily prevented. Is it a stupid issue? Most definitely.

Easily prevented? Sure, by spending $250 on an aluminum one, which you either have to swap out all the time, or possible risk the dealer giving you crap for having it, and then giving them a reason to start searching for other modifications.
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      04-07-2018, 12:13 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpc647 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcdanielvzw View Post
I don't think I can consider the charge pipe a reliability issue - besides it isn't catastrophic, and easily prevented. Is it a stupid issue? Most definitely.

Easily prevented? Sure, by spending $250 on an aluminum one, which you either have to swap out all the time, or possible risk the dealer giving you crap for having it, and then giving them a reason to start searching for other modifications.
If a chargepipe is a big deal to you as preventative maintenance, do NOT use any kind of tune or exhaust you will just drive yourself crazy.

I just put the VRSF chargepipe on the x1 35 and it's well worth the peace of mind.

The "unreliability" list you made is so minor that I can only imagine you having a meltdown if you have to pull over and clear codes. With any tune you should do plugs and coils, which is already more expensive than the chargepipe. I recommend you stay stock based on your posts.
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      04-07-2018, 08:20 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpc647 View Post
Easily prevented? Sure, by spending $250 on an aluminum one, which you either have to swap out all the time, or possible risk the dealer giving you crap for having it, and then giving them a reason to start searching for other modifications.
If your dealer gives you crap for a chargepipe, then you need a new dealer. I can't fathom a single problem a chargepipe would cause by itself as long as it is properly installed, and that goes for the stock chargepipe even. All my dealership said was "wow that's a hefty charge pipe."

Also if you are that worried about crap from a dealership, then don't swap out any parts until after your warranty. Fairly cut and dry.
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      04-07-2018, 10:32 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkrom View Post
If a chargepipe is a big deal to you as preventative maintenance, do NOT use any kind of tune or exhaust you will just drive yourself crazy.

I just put the VRSF chargepipe on the x1 35 and it's well worth the peace of mind.

The "unreliability" list you made is so minor that I can only imagine you having a meltdown if you have to pull over and clear codes. With any tune you should do plugs and coils, which is already more expensive than the charge pipe. I recommend you stay stock based on your posts.

Considering I'm talking about a JB+ and a JB4 stage 1, yes, I don't expect I'll be pulling over to clear codes.

My issue isn't replacing the charge pipe, it's the fact that the factory one is so shitty, it cracks under stock boost.

No one, anywhere has mentioned replacing coils with a jb+ or stage 1....



Quote:
Originally Posted by mcdanielvzw View Post
If your dealer gives you crap for a chargepipe, then you need a new dealer. I can't fathom a single problem a chargepipe would cause by itself as long as it is properly installed, and that goes for the stock chargepipe even. All my dealership said was "wow that's a hefty charge pipe."

Also if you are that worried about crap from a dealership, then don't swap out any parts until after your warranty. Fairly cut and dry.

The chargepipe just gives them an excuse to start digging deeper and looking for tuner detection codes, even if the jb4 stage 1 is already removed.
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      04-07-2018, 10:34 AM   #13
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if you are still under warranty and don't want to risk a powertrain repair under warranty, then definitely do not get a chargepipe or jb4. otherwise a dealer is not going to care if you have aftermarket parts or not for the free maintenance plan. i would think if you have an aftermarket chargepipe that they would assume you have an aftermarket tune.
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      04-07-2018, 12:16 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpc647 View Post
Wastegage rattle. Chargepipes. Valves Carboning up. Fan motors (for the HVAC) dying/whistling(more x1 specific). Stupid things that shouldn't happen on 45k+ car.
?

There is no real carbon build-up issue on the N55. The wastegate rattle is MUCH more an N54 thing as well, not a real N55 problem. But more importantly, none of those things are in ANY way affected by a JB4 vs. a stock tune.

The N55 is a SUPER strong engine. Adding a JB4 is perfectly reliable, and dramatically changes the car from a power perspective.

If you want to keep it stock, fine. But don't claim the JB4 somehow affects any of the issues you listed (sans charge pipe...which isn't a big deal asmost stock ones hold up fine, mine included) when it plainly doesn't. That's just simply false info.
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      04-07-2018, 12:21 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themishmosh View Post
if you are still under warranty and don't want to risk a powertrain repair under warranty, then definitely do not get a chargepipe or jb4. otherwise a dealer is not going to care if you have aftermarket parts or not for the free maintenance plan. i would think if you have an aftermarket chargepipe that they would assume you have an aftermarket tune.

First off, the maintenance plan is completely not effected. They will change your oil regardless of what mods you have on the car. Mods have nothing to do with that, at all. They have NO grounds to not perform the free maintenance.

Regarding the warranty...it's dealer dependent...but I think you'd be surprised.

My X1 has gotten a new water pump, brakes, transmission work, etc. all with a JB4, downpipe, suspension work, etc. still on the car. I even had to tell them on the phone how to shut off the JB4 so their computer could connect.

My N54 cars have gotten turbos, injectors, etc. replaced with the JB4 on the car.

You didn't buy a Subaru. The service is still very accommodating...
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      04-07-2018, 05:45 PM   #16
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You will want to do plugs and coils before any tune. Higher boost makes weaker components throw errors when they can squeak by at low stock boost.

For what it's worth I'm going MHD on this car with a warranty. I have jb4 + mhd and fbo on the n54 135.

I think tunes are must haves for this motor, but that's because I view the list of complaints you made as almost trivial. Not saying you're wrong, just that compared to the n54 this is a rock solid platform. I have no problem with chargepipe and plugs etc as groundwork for mods but if I did I wouldn't bother tuning the car. Just my honest advice.
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      04-09-2018, 09:11 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrematureApex View Post
?

There is no real carbon build-up issue on the N55. The wastegate rattle is MUCH more an N54 thing as well, not a real N55 problem. But more importantly, none of those things are in ANY way affected by a JB4 vs. a stock tune.

The N55 is a SUPER strong engine. Adding a JB4 is perfectly reliable, and dramatically changes the car from a power perspective.

If you want to keep it stock, fine. But don't claim the JB4 somehow affects any of the issues you listed (sans charge pipe...which isn't a big deal asmost stock ones hold up fine, mine included) when it plainly doesn't. That's just simply false info.
I disagree 1000% on the wastegate. Mine rattle, there are plenty of people on here who's rattle, etc. My dealership refuses to acknowledge it. So yes, I'm a little worried about them seeing a chargepipe and being "bothered" by it. Like I said, it gives them a reason to look for other issues.

I'd most likely start with a JB Stage 1, and see.

You actually run a full jb4 with a stock charge pipe? Are you running map 1?

Quote:
Originally Posted by PrematureApex View Post

My X1 has gotten a new water pump, brakes, transmission work, etc. all with a JB4, downpipe, suspension work, etc. still on the car. I even had to tell them on the phone how to shut off the JB4 so their computer could connect.

My N54 cars have gotten turbos, injectors, etc. replaced with the JB4 on the car.

You didn't buy a Subaru. The service is still very accommodating...
Wow. You're super lucky. How many miles do you have on your x1 where you needed or got a waterpump replaced? Can you elaborate on what's been replaced and when(mileage), I'm just curious.

Quote:
Originally Posted by darkrom View Post
You will want to do plugs and coils before any tune. Higher boost makes weaker components throw errors when they can squeak by at low stock boost.

For what it's worth I'm going MHD on this car with a warranty. I have jb4 + mhd and fbo on the n54 135.

I think tunes are must haves for this motor, but that's because I view the list of complaints you made as almost trivial. Not saying you're wrong, just that compared to the n54 this is a rock solid platform. I have no problem with chargepipe and plugs etc as groundwork for mods but if I did I wouldn't bother tuning the car. Just my honest advice.
Again, I'm leaning more towards the Stage 1, I don't think plugs are really necessary, but certainly worth looking at after 500 miles or so.
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      04-09-2018, 10:11 PM   #18
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If you run the Jb+ or stage one or dinan flash or anything that increases boost and you do happen to need plugs sooner, is that a big deal to you? Just throwing it out there as something to look for.

When I flash mhd I plan on doing plugs and coils first and getting the new plugs/coils running perfectly before the tune. Yes it's much more aggressive, but imho it's always best practice before a tune, and they won't last forever anyway. It's relatively affordable preventative maintenance. With these cars preventative maintenance can keep you out of the dealership in the first place.

You'll want to be able to clear codes with any tune. Look into Carly for your phone and their adapter. Just suggesting things you can prepare for.

My n54 is a hell of a lot more picky than these n55 motors. They are really solid. Do plugs and coils every 20k or so. Do belts when they make noise. Do water pump when you are sick of stressing it after 60k or so. I'm at 54k now rolling the dice under warranty knowing I'll be stranded some day. Or I can buy the part at FCP euro and now have a lifetime warranty on the part, and never be stranded on the highway.

Even with a warranty on my car, or the warranty on the pump from FCP, how much is your piece of mind worth? The only part worth worrying about is the water pump on these motors in general. It is weak. Better to just replace it and know the car is rock solid. If you don't do plugs you may get misfires and have to clear codes, but then drive fine again until you boost hard etc. Not going to strand you but not fun at all.
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      04-09-2018, 10:13 PM   #19
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Also no dealer should give you shit about a chargepipe, assuming its quality. Just say you didn't want the stock plastic one to fail and show them pics. Plenty to show. It's the same diverter valves etc just metal not plastic. Unless you have meth hooked up to it, I really can't see any dealer even looking twice.
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      04-10-2018, 02:40 PM   #20
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Quote:
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...Wow. You're super lucky...
Are you claiming that he's lucky that his dealer honored the warranty on items that were almost impossible to impact with his JB4? If so, this opinion is based on what, exactly?

Last edited by hooligan_G01; 04-10-2018 at 02:48 PM..
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      04-12-2018, 07:49 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkrom View Post
If you run the Jb+ or stage one or dinan flash or anything that increases boost and you do happen to need plugs sooner, is that a big deal to you? Just throwing it out there as something to look for.

When I flash mhd I plan on doing plugs and coils first and getting the new plugs/coils running perfectly before the tune. Yes it's much more aggressive, but imho it's always best practice before a tune, and they won't last forever anyway. It's relatively affordable preventative maintenance. With these cars preventative maintenance can keep you out of the dealership in the first place.

You'll want to be able to clear codes with any tune. Look into Carly for your phone and their adapter. Just suggesting things you can prepare for.

My n54 is a hell of a lot more picky than these n55 motors. They are really solid. Do plugs and coils every 20k or so. Do belts when they make noise. Do water pump when you are sick of stressing it after 60k or so. I'm at 54k now rolling the dice under warranty knowing I'll be stranded some day. Or I can buy the part at FCP euro and now have a lifetime warranty on the part, and never be stranded on the highway.

Even with a warranty on my car, or the warranty on the pump from FCP, how much is your piece of mind worth? The only part worth worrying about is the water pump on these motors in general. It is weak. Better to just replace it and know the car is rock solid. If you don't do plugs you may get misfires and have to clear codes, but then drive fine again until you boost hard etc. Not going to strand you but not fun at all.
Having to plugs sooner wouldn't bother me at all. I misunderstood the first time and thought you meant you need to replace plugs for the tune. I'm not sure I'm going to do plugs AND coils every 20k, that seems excessive. Didn't I read somewhere there was a warranty extension on the Water Pump? I know there is for the thermostat.

I do like the idea of Icarly. There are a couple of similar ones on the market, been debating between them. Carly is explicitly for BMW it looks like, so that's probably the best bet. And it's like $50. Which seems like a deal.

I'm only around 30k, but around 60k, I'll consider upgrading the water pump to the FCP for the warranty, and then replace that one every 50k miles or so afterwards, if I keep the car that long.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hooligan_clt View Post
Are you claiming that he's lucky that his dealer honored the warranty on items that were almost impossible to impact with his JB4? If so, this opinion is based on what, exactly?
He's had a turbo replaced, after pushing additional psi through it tuned. Yes, I'd say he's lucky the dealership honored the warranty. They absolutely could have, and probably should have told him to go pound sand.

A jb+ is one thing, maybe. A full JB4 tune and warranty on a component directly effected, that's asking a lot. The JB4 controls fuel too, so it would not be unreasonably for the dealer to say the tune would have created a higher duty cycle on the injectors, leading to premature failure. That makes a reasonable amount of sense, and there really isn't any contesting that.

Say what you want, the Magnusen-Moss act does not cover this. That's for OEM comperable parts. A replacement starter. A replacement waterpump, etc. NOT FOR ADDING POWER ADDERS TO A CAR, MAKING IT PERFORM OUTSIDE OF FACTORY PARAMETERS. Hell, look at the mustang issue from a decade ago where everyone was installing underdrive pulleys, making an extra 7hp, and then motors were failing. Turns out, those underdrive pulleys reduced the cooling capacity of the car significantly so they were running much hotter under load, and popping motors. NOT COVERED.

Last edited by SharpAndCunning; 04-12-2018 at 07:58 AM..
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