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      08-01-2016, 02:35 PM   #45
bratwurst1
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Your honesty by itself is refreshing in this business.
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      08-01-2016, 02:45 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiloTHREE View Post
^I appreciate your work, but in all honesty those numbers/chart means absolute dick.
Hell even the same car, on the same dyno with relatively same weather is going to have a large variance.
Yeah that's why I'd be curious what each owner experienced before and after in terms of 0-60 times or ideally averaged dyno charts over a couple of runs.

Just saw Dinan's post - thanks!!
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      08-01-2016, 02:49 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bratwurst1 View Post
Only real curiosity, let's say you unplug it for a some period of time, for whatever reason, does the car have to learn to be stock all over or is that pretty quick?
That would be quick. Same for install.
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      08-01-2016, 02:51 PM   #48
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Where do you recommend zip tie'ing the thing too?
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      08-01-2016, 04:19 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bratwurst1 View Post
Where do you recommend zip tie'ing the thing too?
Installation instructions can be found on the product page or downloaded directly HERE. The last page shows the picture of where/how to mount the ZIP tie.
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      08-01-2016, 09:20 PM   #50
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I was going to wait for the ios app, but I went ahead and put in my order!
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      08-02-2016, 09:05 AM   #51
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Well that will be two of us then that can provide E84 application reviews in short order. In about a month I have a casual event coming up at Road America. It won't be full on hot laps but plenty of full throttle for a half hour of track time. And anyone who has been to Road America knows plenty of room to open it up.
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      08-03-2016, 11:27 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dinan_Engineering View Post
The old E chassis software cars we have not gone through all the testing on as of yet hence why it is not listed. Chances are it will work though and once confirmed the new applications will be listed.
So if I buy this now, it should work for X1 35i but just not fully tested yet?
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      08-03-2016, 12:59 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veg8 View Post
So if I buy this now, it should work for X1 35i but just not fully tested yet?
If its a later model E84 (2013+) you will have the appropriate sensor connection for sure. The older models may have the older style sensor however . The same can be said for the E89 Z series. Those models are a bit of oddballs since they are the 2 random E chassis' that went past 2013 production and into 2015-16. I have attached a PDF for sensor reference... if you have the sensor on the first page, the current SPORT is compatible. If its the style on the second page then its the older style sensor which is not compatible.

20160802082654.pdf
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      08-03-2016, 04:58 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dinan_Engineering View Post
If its a later model E84 (2013+) you will have the appropriate sensor connection for sure. The older models may have the older style sensor however . The same can be said for the E89 Z series. Those models are a bit of oddballs since they are the 2 random E chassis' that went past 2013 production and into 2015-16. I have attached a PDF for sensor reference... if you have the sensor on the first page, the current SPORT is compatible. If its the style on the second page then its the older style sensor which is not compatible.

Attachment 1469550
Got it thanks for the info, so basically it harness B compatiable only, in your competitors speak
http://burgertuning.com/images/TMAP_...cation_BMW.jpg
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      08-03-2016, 05:02 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veg8 View Post
Got it thanks for the info, so basically it harness B compatiable only, in your competitors speak
http://burgertuning.com/images/TMAP_...cation_BMW.jpg
Basically. The older E chassis cars (or the majority of them as the case may be) will be getting a SPORT unit for those applications as well. Just not in production yet.
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      08-05-2016, 12:59 PM   #56
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Mine is installed. Took all of one minute once I stared at two sensors that look a like for a bit. I determined the one closest up to engine cover was MAF and the one further back in the inlet pipe was the right one. I hope.

I don't have much miles on it as in the city but initial impressions are good. In sport + mode it just feels all around more stout. Between shifts under full throttle you definitely hear BOV now which was not case before. In race mode it is really noticeable acceleration improvement and especially with trans in sport mode. BOV noise even more noticeable at shifts, I like it. I felt fast and furious!

Questions for Dinan:

1) Is it safe to drive around race mode frequently?
2) When in stock mode, is it doing anything or is simply bypassed all together?
3) Does it know what mode trans is in and is anything changed as a result?

4) Questions about app?

- When you press that little blue down arrow the one that say must be in boost gauge mode it seems to shift the gauge from negative or vacuum to starting point of 0psi. It does also seem to affect the max boost registered? What am I missing or what is this doing/saying?

I could only glance but seemed to be hitting 16psi at Sport+and 18psi in race but again, quick glance at gauge but clear difference.

-Is it instant like the app shows when you switch between modes.

Last edited by bratwurst1; 08-05-2016 at 02:07 PM..
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      08-05-2016, 01:48 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bratwurst1 View Post
Mine is installed. Took all of one minute once I stared at two sensors that look a like for a bit. I determined the one closest up to engine cover was MAF and the one further back in the inlet pipe was the right one. I hope.

I don't have much miles on it as in the city but initial impressions are good. In sport + mode it just feels all around more stout. Between shifts under full throttle you definitely hear BOV now which was not case before. In race mode it is really noticeable acceleration improvement and especially with trans in sport mode. BOV noise even more noticeable at shifts, I like it. I felt fast and furious!

Questions for Dinan:

1) Is it safe to drive around race mode frequently?
2) When in stock mode, is it doing anything or is simply bypassed all together?
3) Does it know what mode trans is in and is anything changed as a result?

4) Questions about app?

- When you press that little blue down arrow the one that say must be in boost gauge mode it seems to shift the gauge from negative or vacuum to starting point of 0psi. It does also seem to affect the max boost registered? What am I missing or what is this doing/saying?

I could only glance but seemed to be hitting 16psi at Sport+and 18psi in race but again, quick glance at gauge but clear difference.

-Is it instant like the app shows when you switch between modes.

4) Still need to find a good place to ziptie it. Right now its tie wrapped to a factory loom holder up on strut tower. Also I think the stock connector at boost sensor needs to be ziptied to something, its a big connector to be flopping around, not sure what yet. Right now its just tie wrapped to the connector plugged into sensor.
Glad you are enjoying it thus far.

1. It is safe to drive around in race mode all the time if you like. Would recommend just be running 93 octane but thats about it.
2. When in the 'stock' setting the unit is being bypassed altogether.
3. The driving modes are unaffected. You will just have more power to access in those modes is all. The throttle response and all of those variables involved with the driving modes remains the same however.
4. The button you are referring to is the 'reset/re-zero/sync' button. Why a down arrow was chosen for the icon I will never understand. I was explained at one point what EXACTLY it was doing but ultimately its a tool to make sure its accurately reporting and establish a real baseline. The next update to the app addresses that whole option among other things and should streamline it. At one point the goal was to implement the functionality that it would automatically do that rezeroing process everytime the car was started so it would be a non-factor. Would love to get rid of that confusing button with an icon that doesn't match. =) Switching is instant--- the boost gauge reporting is slightly delayed (1/4-1/2 second or so) as its being sent over the bluetooth coupled with the translation of that data into a visual on the app.
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      08-05-2016, 01:49 PM   #58
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Mine is being delivered today and since the ios app isn't ready yet, provided I can figure out how to get it loaded (assuming it's not available in the Amazon store) I should be able to use the android app on a Kindle Fire... correct?
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      08-05-2016, 02:02 PM   #59
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I guess I could also pick up a cheap android tablet, if the Fire won't work. That or just wait for the ios app and use sport+ mode (I'm guessing that is where I'll keep it set most of the time anyway) until then.
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      08-05-2016, 02:13 PM   #60
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Ok thanks. If I could make one app suggestion it would simply to be allow the boost gauge and switching between boost modes to occur on same screen without having to go back and forth. Cool on race mode, our premium around here is 93 octane. I found a good place to mount on strut tower now using an existing loom clip I zipped too. If I could figure out how to post pics here I would.

Am I correct that the other sensor up closer to engine and not on plastic tube is the MAF?

Last edited by bratwurst1; 08-05-2016 at 02:21 PM..
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      08-05-2016, 02:20 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bucketfoot View Post
Mine is being delivered today and since the ios app isn't ready yet, provided I can figure out how to get it loaded (assuming it's not available in the Amazon store) I should be able to use the android app on a Kindle Fire... correct?
Worse case amazon can deliver in two days a $35-40 tablet with bluetooth. The app downloaded quick and paired instantly with the sport tuner as easy as can be. I am not a tech guy. I like tech and just want it to work, no interest in understanding it, and this did as advertised.
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      08-05-2016, 02:23 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bucketfoot View Post
Mine is being delivered today and since the ios app isn't ready yet, provided I can figure out how to get it loaded (assuming it's not available in the Amazon store) I should be able to use the android app on a Kindle Fire... correct?
In theory the Kindle Fire would be capable of running the app but there are a bunch of unknowns there in that its a custom android OS so it doesn't have direct access to the google play store (instead its the amazon app store). I am not sure if the app is listed on the amazon equivalent or not but I doubt it. Regardless you can apparently do soemthing to the kindle with free tools to have access to the normal google play store. The second element involved is I do not know what version of BT the kindle (depending on generation of the Fire) is running. Need to be bluetooth 4.0 or newer. Quite a few potential hoops.

Alternatively you can borrow a friend/coworkers Android for a bit to experiment, you could purchase a cheap Android device, or just simply wait for the iOS appdevice and experience the tune like it was new again once its released and you can toggle the race setting. =)
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      08-05-2016, 02:29 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bratwurst1 View Post
Am I correct that the other sensor up closer to engine and not on plastic tube is the MAF?
If you are referring to the one connected to the left/lower left of the airbox lid then yes that's the MAF sensor.
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      08-05-2016, 02:29 PM   #64
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Final question, if the unit were to fail for whatever reason, what happens? Would it default to bypass and you would never know, would you get a CEL? If a CEL, would removing it make it go away. Hope I never find out but curious?
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      08-05-2016, 02:40 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bratwurst1 View Post
Worse case amazon can deliver in two days a $35-40 tablet with bluetooth. The app downloaded quick and paired instantly with the sport tuner as easy as can be. I am not a tech guy. I like tech and just want it to work, no interest in understanding it, and this did as advertised.
I would normally use Amazon, but I'm thinking I might just run by Best Buy as it looks like they've got a tablet in stock for less than $40.
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      08-05-2016, 02:43 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bratwurst1 View Post
Final question, if the unit were to fail for whatever reason, what happens? Would it default to bypass and you would never know, would you get a CEL? If a CEL, would removing it make it go away. Hope I never find out but curious?
Depends on the nature of the failure. If the unit was damaged so electrical signals could not pass through the box a CEL would be triggered at worst or at least some back end codes would be triggered and the car would run very gimpy since no boost whatsoever would be registering. It will be painfully obvious at that point though and you would just have to remove the unit and everything would work fine again assuming there was no damage to the factory plugs/cables themselves. If something shorts on the board however you may never know other then it would feel different as the box would basically just be in bypass mode. In theory if it shorted out though the bluetooth element would go with it so you could check functionality that way to ensure its dead or not.

All of that said, never had a box fail to date in the field. Bound to happen at some point just because of the odds but so far its proven to be bulletproof.
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