MHD Ecu unlock, software only!

[bassrebel]

Originally Posted by wheela

Not sure how different e84 is from e82 135's, but I just came across this video researching how to install a downpipe, and they show how to get to the O2 sensor plugs, since they disconnect them for the install. The O2 sensor plugs make their first appearance around 5:45 into this video.

Originally Posted by wheela

Not sure how different e84 is from e82 135's, but I just came across this video researching how to install a downpipe, and they show how to get to the O2 sensor plugs, since they disconnect them for the install. The O2 sensor plugs make their first appearance around 5:45 into this video.

Thanks!

What I'm suspecting may be wrong (even thought I haven't gotten any o2 related codes) is the wiring harness, that was connected backwards. I'll check the vid to see if it shows the position of the harness on the top of the engine

[solidsleeper]

O2 sensor wiring harness is the beneath cabin air filter cowl, intake pipes, and engine beauty coverings. Right above the cylinder 5 plug and coil.

[solidsleeper]

Just thought I'd share this answering another forum thread regarding battery registration since probably many people are either WFH and not driving much or the age of our batteries are getting up there. I don't have INPA, but I have bimmerlink/protool/mhd with battery registration functions, I did not go to the dealer to replace nor register my battery. From memory I believe both bimmerlink/protool have the ability to register and code to a different battery rating, but MHD you can only register a new battery with OEM battery rating.

From my experience, every time you flash a tune it will erase your previous battery registration (and I'm assuming it will go back to the OEM battery rating coding). So if you have a different rated battery and MHD, I'd think you'd want to also re-code/register the non-oem rated battery. I could be confusing the apps, in both bimmerlink/protool you can see when the battery was last registered (shows mileage). Every time I flashed a tune (stage 0, 1, 2 or back to stock) the battery registration mileage history was erased. For a while I'd re-register the battery each time I flashed and would periodically check the registration history and it would still showed the mileage I last registered the battery. But once I flashed a tune, the mileage history of the last battery registration would get erased again. After over a year, I've just stopped re-registering my battery after each flash since my aftermarket battery has the same rating as the OEM. I seem to flash my car once every couple weeks so I just gave up on trying to re-register my battery.

[wheela]

Originally Posted by solidsleeper

Just thought I'd share this answering another forum thread regarding battery registration since probably many people are either WFH and not driving much or the age of our batteries are getting up there. I don't have INPA, but I have bimmerlink/protool/mhd with battery registration functions, I did not go to the dealer to replace nor register my battery. From memory I believe both bimmerlink/protool have the ability to register and code to a different battery rating, but MHD you can only register a new battery with OEM battery rating.

From my experience, every time you flash a tune it will erase your previous battery registration (and I'm assuming it will go back to the OEM battery rating coding). So if you have a different rated battery and MHD, I'd think you'd want to also re-code/register the non-oem rated battery. I could be confusing the apps, in both bimmerlink/protool you can see when the battery was last registered (shows mileage). Every time I flashed a tune (stage 0, 1, 2 or back to stock) the battery registration mileage history was erased. For a while I'd re-register the battery each time I flashed and would periodically check the registration history and it would still showed the mileage I last registered the battery. But once I flashed a tune, the mileage history of the last battery registration would get erased again. After over a year, I've just stopped re-registering my battery after each flash since my aftermarket battery has the same rating as the OEM. I seem to flash my car once every couple weeks so I just gave up on trying to re-register my battery.

Thanks for sharing, I didn't realize flashing tunes was resetting that - good to know!

[bassrebel]

Originally Posted by solidsleeper

O2 sensor wiring harness is the beneath cabin air filter cowl, intake pipes, and engine beauty coverings. Right above the cylinder 5 plug and coil.

Plugs were connected correctly, new coils in, and still misfires...

What I did (AFTER LOL) was to disconnect the MAF and drive it... it behaves exactly the same, same codes and everything... therefore the misfires are being caused by a lack of MAF sensor... already ordered one, I should have it by Friday, and hopefully then I'll install MHD again =)

[wheela]

Originally Posted by bassrebel

Plugs were connected correctly, new coils in, and still misfires...

What I did (AFTER LOL) was to disconnect the MAF and drive it... it behaves exactly the same, same codes and everything... therefore the misfires are being caused by a lack of MAF sensor... already ordered one, I should have it by Friday, and hopefully then I'll install MHD again =)

Wow, good thinking! Hope that solves your issue, let us know how it turns out!

[wheela]

Are any of you guys stil on stage 1 plus? I'm stage 1 plus (93 oct ver. 1.60), only other mods are vrsf chargepipe, wagner evo 1 intercooler, and xHP stage 2. Honestly, I can't say for sure if my car feels faster than stock. Feels more lively under part-throttle driving, but WOT hard to say. Should stage 1 plus be a pretty noticeable improvement? I just ordered a dragy so I can have some means of measuring my performance (it's arriving tomorrow). I'm not too familiar with n55 logs, but mine seem to be okay. No major corrections, load within 5-10% of target, boost within 1-2 psi of target. I'm trying to understand if stage 1 plus just isn't that noticable of an improvement, or if I should be looking for some issue with my car that it isn't responding right to the tune. I also posted over on the e-series MHD thread on e90 post, but no responses yet. I'm at work now, but I can post up some logs later on. Any thoughts?

[solidsleeper]

Originally Posted by wheela

Are any of you guys stil on stage 1 plus? I'm stage 1 plus (93 oct ver. 1.60), only other mods are vrsf chargepipe, wagner evo 1 intercooler, and xHP stage 2. Honestly, I can't say for sure if my car feels faster than stock. Feels more lively under part-throttle driving, but WOT hard to say. Should stage 1 plus be a pretty noticeable improvement? I just ordered a dragy so I can have some means of measuring my performance (it's arriving tomorrow). I'm not too familiar with n55 logs, but mine seem to be okay. No major corrections, load within 5-10% of target, boost within 1-2 psi of target. I'm trying to understand if stage 1 plus just isn't that noticable of an improvement, or if I should be looking for some issue with my car that it isn't responding right to the tune. I also posted over on the e-series MHD thread on e90 post, but no responses yet. I'm at work now, but I can post up some logs later on. Any thoughts?

From what I understand and experienced, 1+ should give you a nice noticeable bump on the low/mid range, but high rpm the car already falls on it's face and you'll need a downpipe and stage 2/2+ to gain some top end (but top end still falls with stock turbo). This is the first turbo tuned car I've owned and for me it seems like I get used to the power bump and I just want more. I've got the wagner evo 1 IC/catted DP and I was on 1+ for a while, but got bored and back to 2+. I'm somewhat content with stage 2+ (91 ACN) and the e30 tune feels REAL REAL good, but a little inconvenient to mix e85 at the pump.

To trick yourself, go back to stage 0 tune and drive that for a week and get used to it and then throw 1+ back on and you'll notice the difference lol.

[bassrebel]

So after new MAF is installed I'm still getting the same misfires... at least no MAF codes or SES light (been two days already)...

Here's a log of a run I did to create misfires if anyone wants to take a stab at reading it

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hyg0243vt5...known.csv?dl=0

[solidsleeper]

Originally Posted by bassrebel

So after new MAF is installed I'm still getting the same misfires... at least no MAF codes or SES light (been two days already)...

Here's a log of a run I did to create misfires if anyone wants to take a stab at reading it

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hyg0243vt5...known.csv?dl=0

I'm not too knowledgeable with reading logs, but I have a few questions.

1. Are you getting any codes?
2. You're on stage 0 tune right now?
3. By misfires, are do you mean the timing corrections on the log? or do you feel hesitation during WOT acceleration and/or hear misfires?

[bassrebel]

Originally Posted by solidsleeper

I'm not too knowledgeable with reading logs, but I have a few questions.

1. Are you getting any codes?
2. You're on stage 0 tune right now?
3. By misfires, are do you mean the timing corrections on the log? or do you feel hesitation during WOT acceleration and/or hear misfires?

When I took the log MHD was completely deleted from the car. That's an untuned log. And yes, timing corrections would be a more appropriate term than misfiring.

These are the codes I get (attached)

[solidsleeper]

bassrebel I see your AFR going lean and STFT trying to compensate at +29.7% trying to add fuel, which doesn't look good, but your rail pressure looks like it's fine and not dropping. I would have said HPFP, but I think rail pressure should drop, but it's not dropping so I don't want to say HPFP is failing.

Does the car seem to run/idle/cruise fine, but then once you go WOT you get these codes? And about how long did these issues start to come up? Did you have chargepipe and downpipe installed at the same time? misfires started coming up after a couple days, weeks, or months? Maybe there's a boost/vacuum leak either with the CP or DP install?

Also as a disclaimer, I'm a newb when it comes to this and only going off of what I've researched online and my limited experience with this car (2 yrs total and 1 year MHD tuned/mods)

[bassrebel]

Originally Posted by solidsleeper

bassrebel I see your AFR going lean and STFT trying to compensate at +29.7% trying to add fuel, which doesn't look good, but your rail pressure looks like it's fine and not dropping. I would have said HPFP, but I think rail pressure should drop, but it's not dropping so I don't want to say HPFP is failing.

Does the car seem to run/idle/cruise fine, but then once you go WOT you get these codes? And about how long did these issues start to come up? Did you have chargepipe and downpipe installed at the same time? misfires started coming up after a couple days, weeks, or months? Maybe there's a boost/vacuum leak either with the CP or DP install?

Also as a disclaimer, I'm a newb when it comes to this and only going off of what I've researched online and my limited experience with this car (2 yrs total and 1 year MHD tuned/mods)

Originally Posted by solidsleeper

bassrebel I see your AFR going lean and STFT trying to compensate at +29.7% trying to add fuel, which doesn't look good, but your rail pressure looks like it's fine and not dropping. I would have said HPFP, but I think rail pressure should drop, but it's not dropping so I don't want to say HPFP is failing.

Does the car seem to run/idle/cruise fine, but then once you go WOT you get these codes? And about how long did these issues start to come up? Did you have chargepipe and downpipe installed at the same time? misfires started coming up after a couple days, weeks, or months? Maybe there's a boost/vacuum leak either with the CP or DP install?

Also as a disclaimer, I'm a newb when it comes to this and only going off of what I've researched online and my limited experience with this car (2 yrs total and 1 year MHD tuned/mods)

When the car idles there are only minor corrections... I can drive all day long just fine as long as I don't push the throttle too hard because I get the codes and the engine malfunction light comes...

I first installed the chargepipe and it didn't have issues. I also got the downpipe installed for about two weeks before getting MHD with no issues. I'd push it just fine. As soon as I installed it and went for a highway drive (12/31) is when it all started. I thought that the increase in boost had something to do with the plugs/coils so until I was able to install them I put the tune back to 0, in which at that moment I was able to push the throttle down without any issues.

As soon as I installed the new spark plugs (oem Bosch) is when the stuttering became more prominent.

[wheela]

That CSV file is hard to read on a phone, can you create a datazap account and post from there? I see your AFR target and actual are WAY lean during part of your wide open throttle, and torque limits are being hit with actual torque values very low (maybe limp mode)?

[bassrebel]

Originally Posted by wheela

That CSV file is hard to read on a phone, can you create a datazap account and post from there? I see your AFR target and actual are WAY lean during part of your wide open throttle, and torque limits are being hit with actual torque values very low (maybe limp mode)?

https://datazap.me/u/bassrebel/x1?log=0&data=4-21

Here ya go!

[NocheDeZippeh]

I'm a little confused as to what flash the DME was running when you took that log. It indicates "MHD 2.2.0 9e60b unknown" as the map in use. What is an "unknown" map? Also, something weird happens at 2373 rpm in the log where the target AFR jumps from 14.7 (stoich) to 23.8 (extremely lean). I don't think any plausible map would target AFR that lean while WOT.

If MHD is still flashed on the DME, have you tried a complete removal/reinstall and then try to capture a log on stage 0?

[bassrebel]

Originally Posted by NocheDeZippeh

I'm a little confused as to what flash the DME was running when you took that log. It indicates "MHD 2.2.0 9e60b unknown" as the map in use. What is an "unknown" map? Also, something weird happens at 2373 rpm in the log where the target AFR jumps from 14.7 (stoich) to 23.8 (extremely lean). I don't think any plausible map would target AFR that lean while WOT.

If MHD is still flashed on the DME, have you tried a complete removal/reinstall and then try to capture a log on stage 0?

That was after a complete removal the dip in everything is because the X went into limp mode

[wheela]

Thanks, that's easier to read! I'm not sure, but I suspect those lean peaks (before the limp mode) are from the misfires sending extra oxygen (fuel didn't burn so O2 didn't get consumed). I see the code for cutting fuel injection due to misfires, and then your lambda target is double normal value, I'm guessing this is because your dme deactivated the 3 misfiring cylinders, so it's shifting the target to account for 2X the unburnt O2 in the exhaust to keep the remaining 3 cylinders at the right AFR. You have a lot of corrections (knock events) before limp mode, but I don't see what would be causing misfires before limp mode? Boost, load, lamda (other than spikes from misfires), oil temp seem normal range for the stock tune (at least to my intrained eyes). The only thing I noticed, which I don't see how it would be an issue is you fuel pressure (around 2700 before limp mode) is higher than on my car when I run my stock tune, i'm at more like 2200 on stock tune I think. As for the map name, that seems normal to me for logging the stock tune - I have the same thing from my stock tine logs. I saw your other post on e90, hopefully somebody will see something.

Question: what about fuel? Did you get a bad tank of gas, or have anything added to your gas? Your t-map on your chargepipe is plugged in, correct? Do you have secure connections on your chargepipe? How about the meth bungs on the charge pipe, are they leaking?

[bassrebel]

Originally Posted by wheela

Thanks, that's easier to read! I'm not sure, but I suspect those lean peaks (before the limp mode) are from the misfires sending extra oxygen (fuel didn't burn so O2 didn't get consumed). I see the code for cutting fuel injection due to misfires, and then your lambda target is double normal value, I'm guessing this is because your dme deactivated the 3 misfiring cylinders, so it's shifting the target to account for 2X the unburnt O2 in the exhaust to keep the remaining 3 cylinders at the right AFR. You have a lot of corrections (knock events) before limp mode, but I don't see what would be causing misfires before limp mode? Boost, load, lamda (other than spikes from misfires), oil temp seem normal range for the stock tune (at least to my intrained eyes). The only thing I noticed, which I don't see how it would be an issue is you fuel pressure (around 2700 before limp mode) is higher than on my car when I run my stock tune, i'm at more like 2200 on stock tune I think. As for the map name, that seems normal to me for logging the stock tune - I have the same thing from my stock tine logs. I saw your other post on e90, hopefully somebody will see something.

Question: what about fuel? Did you get a bad tank of gas, or have anything added to your gas? Your t-map on your chargepipe is plugged in, correct? Do you have secure connections on your chargepipe? How about the meth bungs on the charge pipe, are they leaking?

Is there a way of resetting the fuel pressure values? can it be something worth looking into?

I usually go to the Citgo right next to my house and have always put 93 oct gas. Chargepipe is not leaking, however, I have had a leak on the engine before and the charge pipe has gotten loose a couple of times during the last year, perhaps some oil has gotten inside and caused the sensor to malfunction? I'll try cleaning it out today and pray for the best.

[wheela]

Originally Posted by bassrebel

Is there a way of resetting the fuel pressure values? can it be something worth looking into?

I usually go to the Citgo right next to my house and have always put 93 oct gas. Chargepipe is not leaking, however, I have had a leak on the engine before and the charge pipe has gotten loose a couple of times during the last year, perhaps some oil has gotten inside and caused the sensor to malfunction? I'll try cleaning it out today and pray for the best.

I haven't used the feature yet, but MHD can clear adaptations. However, I can't imagine an adaptation could be severe enough to cause what you're experiencing?

[wheela]

Originally Posted by solidsleeper

From what I understand and experienced, 1+ should give you a nice noticeable bump on the low/mid range, but high rpm the car already falls on it's face and you'll need a downpipe and stage 2/2+ to gain some top end (but top end still falls with stock turbo). This is the first turbo tuned car I've owned and for me it seems like I get used to the power bump and I just want more. I've got the wagner evo 1 IC/catted DP and I was on 1+ for a while, but got bored and back to 2+. I'm somewhat content with stage 2+ (91 ACN) and the e30 tune feels REAL REAL good, but a little inconvenient to mix e85 at the pump.

To trick yourself, go back to stage 0 tune and drive that for a week and get used to it and then throw 1+ back on and you'll notice the difference lol.

Thanks for the response. Yeah, I was wondering about the anti-placebo affect too, since I progressed from stage 1 91acn, to stage 1 91 oct, to stage 1+ 91 oct, to stage 1+ 93 oct. I just got my dragy, and got a 5.7 and a 5.9 0-60 time. Also got a 5.5, but dragy called it invalid because it was down hill.

For the manufacturer stock quoted 0-60 time of 5.3 seconds, anybody know if that is just mashing the gas, or is that brake-boosted? I've just been mashing the gas as i'm not sure how great brake-boosting is for the driveline.

When I get time I may flash back to stock and measure 0-60 to compare.

[solidsleeper]

wheela I think people on this forum say to launch at 2,000 rpm, but I've never done it. Also to shift early before redline (I think around 5,500-6,000 rpm and you can also cross check your log to see at what rpm boost really takes a dive). If you want more power, you gotta go downpipe, best bang for your buck.