JB4 Install > Destroyed my DME

[b00zted]

So after loads of research I pulled the trigger on a JB4 for my 2015 X1 35i from Burgertuning. It arrived, I read the install pdf a bunch and dug into it w my buddy.

First try we messed up and connected only the TMAP (correctly) and the MAP to MAF mistakenly. Reconnected the battery, started it up, bad idle, any gas and it stalled. Disconnected battery, went back to stock. Everything seemed okay.

Exchanged emails w Burgertuning and they pointed out my mistake.

Second round I located the MAP, and here's where I really went wrong not waiting for my buddy to arrive, connected the MAP and TMAP connectors without disconnecting the battery. Stupid fucking mistake.

I disconnected the battery, left it for 20 minutes and reconnected it. Started it up with only the TMAP and MAP connected since I have an EWG and don't plan on further upgrades, I decided to bypass the MAF, boost solenoid and CAN bus connectors.

The car would start but gas at idle and it stalled. Holding the channel and volume select down buttons failed to pull up any in dash menu so I returned it to stock w the battery disconnected and tried to start it. Now it wouldn't start. It cranked but wouldn't turn over.

Next day I have a tow truck there ready to tow to my shop, and it starts up and drives fine but is throwing a Service Engine Soon code on the dash.

My mechanic pulled the following codes in the pic below. He says the DME has to be replaced, $2,500. I asked if we could flash it and he said yes, but it may at any point just die and then actually do damage to the CAS and other systems requiring more work to be done.

I've attached the most recent Burgertuning correspondence, and I am hoping they will simply take a return at this point.

I've also been in contact w SSR Performance here in Orange County and they said just this weekend alone 3 other people had issues w a JB4 install.

They said they have a DME specialist who may be able to crack it and repair over replacing it that will be under $1,000 for that repair.

Right now I'm at a loss of what to do. Admittedly I'm out of my depth, feeling foolish as hell, and just want to get out of my girlfriends Honda Fit death trap and back into my baby. I love my car and would love any advice on what to do next. Thank you so much!

[Duchess22]

I tried to flash my Cobb on my 335i. Turns out it needed software update. The tuning shop fried it. Then charged me 400$ to get a new one an program it. They struggled over 5 days. They got it to a point were it could drive. 45 mins at the authorized Bmw shop fixed it.

To your question, 400 for the new unit and 275 for bmw to reprogram it. Wondering what 2500 is for.

[Gamb1t]

Sorry to read this. Tough pill to swallow.
JB4 like other piggyback units are pretty straight-forward. Something might've been shorted when you were fiddling with the MAF and MAP connections. Thousands of others including myself hooked up (I used Dinan Sport) these piggyback without issues.

[b1aze]

So you installed it without following the directions exactly and now you’re mad at Burger? Is that how I’m interpreting this?

[b00zted]

Originally Posted by b1aze

So you installed it without following the directions exactly and now you’re mad at Burger? Is that how I’m interpreting this?

No I am mad at myself for not following directions properly. This isn't my first rodeo, almost 20 years ago I built several 300zx TTs and didn't have issues. I'm mad at me, just here looking for advice from fellow enthusiasts.

[b00zted]

Here is the latest reply from Burger.. I am still not sure if deleting fault codes is the same as flashing the DME.. Flashing the DME is what my mechanic has warned me not to do in case there is actual damage to the DME, this will only lead to more serious issues down the road.

As of now, they have agreed to send me a new control board. Again, I appreciate anyone willing to simplify this down for me since I cannot afford to make any more costly mistakes. Thanks so much!

[b1aze]

Originally Posted by b00zted

Here is the latest reply from Burger.. I am still not sure if deleting fault codes is the same as flashing the DME.. Flashing the DME is what my mechanic has warned me not to do in case there is actual damage to the DME, this will only lead to more serious issues down the road.

As of now, they have agreed to send me a new control board. Again, I appreciate anyone willing to simplify this down for me since I cannot afford to make any more costly mistakes. Thanks so much!

Deleting fault codes is simply clearing them with an OBDII tool. If the problems persist, the codes will come back to exactly where you’re at. If they were temporary, it should relieve all the problems you’re having.

Remove the JB4, reconnect the DME harnesses correctly, clear the codes with an OBDII scanner and see where you’re at. As long as you do this removal and reconnections properly, you 100% won’t fry anything worse.

Can I ask, do you 1000% trust your mechanic/shop? There are plenty of places out there that salivate over situations like this for easy money.

[b00zted]

Originally Posted by b1aze

Deleting fault codes is simply clearing them with an OBDII tool. If the problems persist, the codes will come back to exactly where you’re at. If they were temporary, it should relieve all the problems you’re having.

Remove the JB4, reconnect the DME harnesses correctly, clear the codes with an OBDII scanner and see where you’re at. As long as you do this removal and reconnections properly, you 100% won’t fry anything worse.

Can I ask, do you 1000% trust your mechanic/shop? There are plenty of places out there that salivate over situations like this for easy money.

To be honest, I don't. After it was there two days he called me and tried to pressure me to make a decision and I didn't feel very comfortable with that at all. I hadn't had nearly enough time to do any research. This does make me feel better though so I really appreciate the response.

On another note, Burger tuning has offered to ship me another control board. Does that mean I'm going to have to crack open the unit and solder in a new board?

[b00zted]

So my mechanic cleared the codes and said the check engine light is off but the codes came back. He believes the DME is damaged and requires replacement.

Trying to get the DME specialist from SSR Performance to work w me on a repair over replacement.

[wheela]

Sorry to hear about this, that sucks man. I could see switching the map and maf causing problems, because I believe our maf is the hotwire type, so it probably sucks some juice, but you said it ran okay again after you switched them back and went stock?

You also mentioned it was a problem to reconnect the map and maf without disconnecting the battery - is that a problem to do that? I've unplugged and re-plugged both my maf and map without disconnecting the battery (when I put in my charge pipe) and had no problems. Did I dodge a bullet doing that without disconnecting my battery?

[b1aze]

Originally Posted by b00zted

To be honest, I don't. After it was there two days he called me and tried to pressure me to make a decision and I didn't feel very comfortable with that at all. I hadn't had nearly enough time to do any research. This does make me feel better though so I really appreciate the response.

On another note, Burger tuning has offered to ship me another control board. Does that mean I'm going to have to crack open the unit and solder in a new board?

No, I’m sure it’s simply a wiring harness swap. They’d never expect you to solder something that sensitive. They’ll probably send you the whole housing and everything. You’d be surprised how expensive the wiring alone would cost to have done.

[b00zted]

Well I've now consulted with several shops, much better news.

I went into Bimmerscan.com today and spoke w the owner. They do life time warranty repairs for $275, 1-2 day turn around. He said I need to ask my mechanic (who will no longer be my mechanic after this) to take a picture of internal fault codes or missing codes and he will be able to tell me if I need a new dme, or if he can just hook up the car and fix it.

If I did fry something he said to get a used DME from Car-part.com for $250, he'll code it to my car for $275.

Anyways, my mechanic reluctantly agreed to send me that (8 hours ago) so I'm still waiting. Another shop gave me a 3hr labor quote of $399 to pull the DME and reinstall it.

So worst case scenario I'm looking at about $900. Best case a few hundred. The worst part about this is finding out the mechanic that I trusted was willing to rip me off. He works for my dad's best friend and has known me for years. Not cool.

Anyways, I'll keep this thread updated just in case anyone else runs into a similar issue.

[Gamb1t]

Can you run INPA or ISTA/D to look at specifics? Sometimes I find they provide some great insights and the fix maybe something stupid trivia.

[b00zted]

So after pulling the fault codes as I was advised to do I sent them to the Bimmerscan dude as requested and he said he only does bench work.. He said he'd be able to tell me more with the codes then refers me out to another shop. So I called them, decided to go to another place and talk in person.

They explained that pulling the DME and having it repaired by another shop can be a bitch, sometimes the repair is done poorly, leaving the shop doing the removal/install on the hook for a bad repair job.

I decided to stick with my original mechanic, and got the car back today. Got a cash discount from 1500 to 1400 and a 90 day warranty.

Burgertuning sent me a new board that I will give to SSR Performance for the $150 install. Even though I know how to install it now, I'd rather a shop shoulder the risk.

Here are the fault codes. The repair was a used unit recoded for my car. Seems to drive okay.