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      10-24-2012, 02:01 PM   #1
mabrahams
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DIY: Trailer Hitch US

So I decided to see if my Curt 128i hitch would fit the X1.



It does fit however there are two points to make if anyone wants to follow suit.

1) The exhaust valve control will have to be removed. This is not an issue since this is used during warm up, so I tossed it. The EVC mount will have to be either removed or bent out of the way (I bent it out of the way).

2) The mount has to mount behind the crush bar not in front of it. Now this Curt hitch mount is supposed to mount in front (http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=99) however unless you modify the 2nd eyelet it won't be flush. I am sure Curt will produce something (sooner or later) but I couldn't wait.



This is the Curt 11184 hitch for the 128i.

Other notes:

It does not rub exhaust the exhaust (like the 128i does), the bottom flap piece does not have to be removed either after install.

Rear diffuser removal notes:

Remove all 8mm bolts, remove the two 8mm bolts that connect the rear diffuser to the bumper (behind the felt wheel well). It does help to remove the white plastic caps however I'd recommend you buy spares since they are plastic.

Remove all 10mm bolts that connect the rear diffuser to the plastic pieces.

When pulling rear diffuser pull down and back. I had to push the tabs through from behind the diffuser because it was really tight (I was worried there was a bolt somewhere). Take your time.

Removed exhaust bolt (torx but you can use 7mm) and slide off exhaust rubber mount (left side) from mount.

Remove the 18mm crush bar bolts and when reinstalling torque down to 65 ft/lbs.


Special Special Note:

Those who wanted the BMW bike rack; it wont work with the US crush bar. On the EU ones, they have bolts that go through the crush bar and that's how it's mounted. However, on the US version there is only one hole (right side). That's why the US won't get the EU bike rack. Both the US and EU rear diffuser has two 'tow hook' covers.

Last edited by mabrahams; 10-29-2012 at 11:03 AM.
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      10-24-2012, 08:17 PM   #2
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Thanks for being the guinea pig on this. Sad to hear that the Euro Bike rack won't work, but if anyone has tried pricing it the retail is $820 USD, anyway, so perhaps they did us a favor...

I had a class 1 hitch on my last car and over time had issues with the mounting points weakening and causing the hitch to sag. I used my hitch exclusively for road and time trial bikes. Together, my bikes weight 33 lbs. and with my rack being another 30 lbs, the total weight on the hitch was only something like 63-65lbs + aerodynamic drag. Do you foresee anything like this happening to the hitch you put on your X1? Does it feel very solid? I see they rate the tongue weight as 200lbs on the 128i with this hitch, do you think that holds true for the X1, as well?

Also, you mentioned something not being flush, but I found that hard to follow. Did you mean that you could not mount the hitch behind the bumper support due to the mounting holes not lining up exactly right, so you chose to mount it front of the support instead?

Did you have to cut anything? Drill any holes?

Thanks!

PS: Throw up another picture after everything is back assembled so we can see how it looks.
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      10-25-2012, 07:36 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conceyted View Post
Do you foresee anything like this happening to the hitch you put on your X1? Does it feel very solid? I see they rate the tongue weight as 200lbs on the 128i with this hitch, do you think that holds true for the X1, as well?

Also, you mentioned something not being flush, but I found that hard to follow. Did you mean that you could not mount the hitch behind the bumper support due to the mounting holes not lining up exactly right, so you chose to mount it front of the support instead?

Did you have to cut anything? Drill any holes?

Thanks!

PS: Throw up another picture after everything is back assembled so we can see how it looks.
I've used this hitch on my 128i for over a year and there was absolutely no sag at all. I too used it for road bikes and MTB bikes.
I would only assume the 200lbs would be the same for the X1.

Everything is flush; the only issue was the hitch mount has to be mounted behind the crush bumper. While on the 128i it was mounted in front of it. Some of the 1 guys mounted behind the crush bumper and it would rub the exhaust.

I could not mount the hitch in front of the crush bumper due to the holes not lining up (this is because the hitch mount eyelets are less than a quarter inch shorter. You can easily grind a little gap in order to push the hitch mount up higher but decided not to.







Nothing cut and no holes drilled. I did remove the exhaust control valve and bent the exhaust control valve mount in; so it would clear the hitch however.

The second photo is with the hitch installed. I'll take more photos later today with the bike rack as well.

Last edited by mabrahams; 10-25-2012 at 07:54 AM.
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      10-25-2012, 08:43 AM   #4
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More photos of the exhaust control valve mount cut and moved.







More photos of the rear diffuser:





Photos of it mounted behind crush bar:


Installed with rack:





I tested it yesterday with the same bikes pictured above and everything was good. So for those who don't mind removing the exhaust control valve, you have a mount from Curt that will work.

Last edited by mabrahams; 10-29-2012 at 11:01 AM.
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      10-29-2012, 01:10 PM   #5
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Thanks for the great post. I just ordered the same hitch for my X1. I also ordered the Curt 56146KIT taillight w/converter hardware kit in hopes I can make it work. Have you already figured out a wire harness option for your X1?

I have a small utility trailer and very light (<500 lb) boat and motor I'm hoping to be able to tow, so trailer lights will be a must.

Thanks again!
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      10-29-2012, 01:50 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADKX1 View Post
Thanks for the great post. I just ordered the same hitch for my X1. I also ordered the Curt 56146KIT taillight w/converter hardware kit in hopes I can make it work. Have you already figured out a wire harness option for your X1?
I have not. I don't plan on it either since I use the hitch only for my bike rack.
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      10-30-2012, 10:14 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADKX1 View Post
Thanks for the great post. I just ordered the same hitch for my X1. I also ordered the Curt 56146KIT taillight w/converter hardware kit in hopes I can make it work. Have you already figured out a wire harness option for your X1?

I have a small utility trailer and very light (<500 lb) boat and motor I'm hoping to be able to tow, so trailer lights will be a must.

Thanks again!
I'm very interested in how the trailer lights work out. My car is going into production soon and I want to be ready to tow 3 kayaks on a small light-weight trailer come next spring. Please report back with your findings.
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      10-30-2012, 10:16 PM   #8
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TYVM, mabrahams. This should do nicely. Pics and detailed comments on the install are much appreciated.
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      11-14-2012, 04:06 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADKX1 View Post
Thanks for the great post. I just ordered the same hitch for my X1. I also ordered the Curt 56146KIT taillight w/converter hardware kit in hopes I can make it work. Have you already figured out a wire harness option for your X1?

I have a small utility trailer and very light (<500 lb) boat and motor I'm hoping to be able to tow, so trailer lights will be a must.

Thanks again!
I completed my hitch and wiring harness install on my 2013 X1 280i. This job is not for the faint of heart. Although the hole pattern lines up perfectly to bolt on the hitch, I had to liberally take the angel grinder to the hitch to notch out areas where the hitch interfered with the frame in the inner angles of the hitch supports. I wanted to install the hitch without removing the exhaust solenoid, but could not. When removing the solenoid, you will need to do damage that will be hard to reverse on the linkage to basically cut the pin that holds the actuator arm from the top of the valve with a dremel. You will need to secure the butterfly valve (I suggest open position) or it will rattle like crazy! I simply used some copper wire, but solder or tack welding would be the best option. I'm not sure the BMW service shop will be too happy about you doing this and I have no idea what it does to the warranty.

I was however able to install the hitch without removing removing the bumper (just removing the screws holding it securely in place and the plastic under trim). I did need to drop my exhaust down from halfway back on the car to fit the hitch in place, and trust me, those exhaust hangers are not fun to deal with. I think mine were actually bonded onto the metal hangers! Overall, I would not rate this as a DIY job for those without good mechanical aptitude the right tools (angle grinder and dremel, strength and patience). For those that have the tools, skills and patience, go for it. The hitch will work, but if you have the luxury of time, I'd wait until Curt or BMW puts out an X1 specific model.

The wiring harness was pretty easy and with the trunk mounted battery, routing cables is a no-brainer and allows for a very clean install. The Curt kit is universal and comes with wire splicing crimps. I took my time and was very careful, but this can easily be done in less than 1 hour. The harness simply lays coiled up in the sub floor trunk compartment tray unless I want to use it, then I can pull it out and let it hang out the bottom of the trunk door when it is connected to a trailer.

Overall, now that it is installed, the hitch looks good and is very clean and minimal in appearance. I do still need to work on the rattle from the exhaust valve bracket against the hitch, but that shouldn't be too challenging.
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      11-15-2012, 10:40 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADKX1 View Post
You will need to secure the butterfly valve (I suggest open position) or it will rattle like crazy! I simply used some copper wire, but solder or tack welding would be the best option. I'm not sure the BMW service shop will be too happy about you doing this and I have no idea what it does to the warranty.
Shouldn't have an issue with warranty. The ECV is used for warm-up and the valve opens at 3k RPM or higher. A lot of the 3-series guys remove the valve to increase the deepness of the exhaust.

You've decided not to mount it behind the crush bar then huh? Did you take any photos?

You must have had to remove the rear diffuser to have some room?
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      11-26-2012, 10:51 PM   #11
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The word from Curt

I contacted Curt Mfg. to ask if they plan on developing a hitch for the X1 and, if so, when it would be available.

They responded that they have recently gained access to an X1 to develop a hitch, that a new design is being developed but it would require substantial testing.

It will be a while (??) Their Customer Sertvice advised checking their website until an X1 is an offered "model".

At least they are working on it.
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      12-09-2012, 04:11 PM   #12
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Hey guys,

I just created my account so I wont be allowed to make my own thread - I figured I would post my question here.

I have decided to buy an X1 x35i with the M-Sport package. I haven't purchased yet but I am the kind of guy who likes to have everything sorted out well in advance.

I need to tow my boat with this car, here are the specifics concerning weight and size:

Nacra F18 Infusion, 18 feet long fully rigged weight 390 lbs
Aluminum Trailer, single axle, 300lbs

Tongue weight should be low always and obviously my tow weight will not exceed 1000lbs. Do you guys think there would be any other issues with my plans to use a Curt 11148 with a 5" or 3" rise ball mount?
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      12-12-2012, 11:32 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xess View Post
I contacted Curt Mfg. to ask if they plan on developing a hitch for the X1 and, if so, when it would be available.

They responded that they have recently gained access to an X1 to develop a hitch, that a new design is being developed but it would require substantial testing.

It will be a while (??) Their Customer Sertvice advised checking their website until an X1 is an offered "model".

At least they are working on it.
Guess what I just found. https://www.curtmfg.com/masterlibrar..._13140_INS.PDF
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      12-18-2012, 09:34 PM   #14
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Per Curtis avail in a few weeks
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      01-08-2013, 10:06 PM   #15
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Will this work on US models?


http://www.amazon.co.uk/Thule-Brink-...7700506&sr=8-9
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      01-11-2013, 08:51 PM   #16
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Curt Mfg trailer hitch is now available. I ordered online yesterday. Class III hitch with 2500lb capacity (vehicle rating). Hitch and a locking pin were a reasonable $158.00 shipped.
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      01-11-2013, 09:44 PM   #17
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Curt Mfg trailer hitch is now available. I ordered online yesterday. Class III hitch with 2500lb capacity (vehicle rating). Hitch and a locking pin were a reasonable $158.00 shipped.
MAM,
That's great. Please post a description of your install experience, with pictures if applicable. Did you need special tools? Could it be done with the car on the ground? I hope the install is easy and straight forward.

Did you order a wiring harness adapter? Was that straight forward?

Where did you order it? The MRSP is $268. You got a really good price.
Thanks
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      01-13-2013, 12:05 AM   #18
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I found a new Curt for the X1 for $147 including shipping on lone and ordered one this morning.
Started perusing the Craig's list for an appropriate motorcycle trailer and found a virtually new, unused, Stinger for half price and bought it today. By next weekend I should be set up to trail my classic bikes ( or the new one's if they need it).
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      01-16-2013, 10:47 PM   #19
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Got a powered 3 wire to 2 wire converter from Uhaul today ($40) and wired up the X1 for the trailer lights. Works great. Now all I have to do is install the hitch when it arrives tomorrow.
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      01-17-2013, 04:20 PM   #20
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Quote:
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MAM,
That's great. Please post a description of your install experience, with pictures if applicable. Did you need special tools? Could it be done with the car on the ground? I hope the install is easy and straight forward.

Did you order a wiring harness adapter? Was that straight forward?

Where did you order it? The MRSP is $268. You got a really good price.
Thanks
Curt hitch arrived a few days ago but still in the box. Ordered through AutoAnything but hitch was shipped directly from Curt. Have not ordered a wiring harness but was looking at a module from etrailer online. Will have to compare with the uhaul harness you purchased. What was your opinion and how was the install on the uhaul unit?
The hitch install looks straightforward. Only tool I need is plastic rivet tool and I'm set. Here is link to PDF installation guide from Curt.
https://www.curtmfg.com/masterlibrar..._13140_INS.PDF
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      01-17-2013, 11:30 PM   #21
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The Uhaul 3 to 2 powered interface went in fairly easily but i made ita little harder as I like everything hidden.
The wire color code in the X1 taillight connector is the as the X5 in the etrailer video. Tapped in to the left side harness through the access panel an the leads on the box were just long enough to mount the box on the bottom behind the eft hand storage cubby below ran the white ground lead up to the tail light mounting stud with the brake, running light and left turn signal wires.
Removed the black trim strip on the hatch threshold to run the power lead to the battery and the long green lead to the right taillight (it was just long enough). Fairly easy to route through the right side cubby hole and the right tail light access panel.
Mounted the box with sticky backed industrial Velcro. Lights work great. Tomorrow the hitch which just arrived today.
Don't know why they put a 2" receiver on a 2500 pound capacity hitch.
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      01-18-2013, 07:27 PM   #22
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Installed the Curt hitch today. It was more arduous than I expected largely because access to the top 2 mounting bolts is so limited. It's been a long time since I spent that much time doing physical work on my back. Uhaul said they would install it for $80 and if I were to do it again I would let them do it.

Couple of tips:
-Releasing the fascia latches from below with a screwdriver made me more confident I would not break any
-I removed the right side bottom cover, not called out in Curt's instructions, to facillitate access
-OReilly's has 1/4" black plastic rivets with screw actuation (like a Molly bolt) that eliminates the need for a special pop rivet tool. My metal pop rivet tool does not open up enough to take the shank of the supplied plastic rivets.
-I could not get a torque wrench on either of the top fastners and one of the 11/16 hex head bolts so just made them as tight as I could get them.
-Again, for $80 I would have Uhaul do it, assuming they would do a conciencious job.
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