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      11-04-2012, 10:28 AM   #1
Bill B.
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DIY: V1 Radar Detector Install

There are several DIYs available for hardwiring a V1 in many different BMWs, and the X1 install is practically identical to the 1XX. But, I figured I'd provide a write-up for the X1.

Purpose
This installation is to hardwire a windshield mounted V1 radar detector to an ignition enabled fuse.

Tools Required
Philips screwdrivers
Torx drivers
Nylon trim removal tools
Wire cutters, strippers, crimpers

Supplies Used
Valentine Direct-Wire Power Adapter Kit #00030
WirthCo 30103 Tapa Circuit for ATM Mini Fuse Blocks
Wire Ties
Locktite (optional)


Step 1- Lower Trim
Remove the lower trim panel beneath the glove box, held with two screws and one tab. After removing the screws, drop down and pull toward the seat to remove.
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      11-04-2012, 10:33 AM   #2
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Step 2

Step 2 -remove glove box

Empty the glove box and remove the piston on the right side. Drop the glove box forward by pressing in on each side to free the stop tabs.

Unscrew the four screws holding the two pivot rod brackets.
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      11-04-2012, 10:42 AM   #3
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Step 3 - A Pillar Trim

Step 3 - Remove A pillar trim
Probably the most difficult part of the install is removing this trim.

SINCE THE AIRBAG IS UNDER THIS TRIM, YOU MIGHT WANT TO REMOVE POWER BEFORE CONTINUING

First, remove the airbag cap covering the single torx bolt holding the trim to the car. Using a small pick to carefully get under the cover, gently lift until you can squeeze the two tabs and lift off.

Next, Unbolt the torx bolt. It is held with locktite blue so it will take a little effort to unscrew.

Now, two tabs are holding the pillar to the car, so pulling the pillar toward the rear of the car, and up, while wiggling will eventually loosen the pillar for removal. (SHORTCUT: Just pull the trim away from the pillar, removing the trim clips still attached to the pillar trim.)
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      11-04-2012, 10:53 AM   #4
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Step 4 - Run Wire

Step 4 - Run Wire
With everything exposed, the 8 ft straight power cord can be fed from the windshield mount point all the way to the fuse box behind the glove box.

Leaving a few inches slack for the V1, the wire can easily be tucked up into the headliner with a nylon trim tool.

Where the headliner would be covered by the A trim pillar, care must be taken to wrap the wire appropriately.

Now, run the cable down the A pillar with the existing wire bundle. I used very small wire ties, turning the locking end away from the airbag, so there are no sharp edges.

Then, using a worklight shining from underneath the dash, the wire can be fed down through the dash. I used a ball chain and magnets to feed the wire, but a thin, flexible rod with the wire taped to it could also be used.

Collect all the slack wire around the metal dash mounting brackets to ensure its not rubbing against the sharp metal edges.
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      11-04-2012, 10:58 AM   #5
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Step 5 - Prepare Power Adapter

Step 5 - prepare power adapter
Since the tapa fuse includes a fuse, the fuse holder on the V1 power adapter is unnecessary. Cut the red wire before the fuse holder, strip, and insert into the crimp supplied on the end of the tapa fuse.
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      11-04-2012, 11:05 AM   #6
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Step 6 - Install Power Adapter

Step 6 - Install Power Adapter
The power adapter ground wire can be attached to the existing dash support bracket bolt. Spread the crimp fork slightly, and it will seat between the bolt head and existing washer.

Put the 2 amp fuse supplied by the V1 kit into the tapa fuse top slot. Then, plug in the tapa into empty fuse slot #5. This provides an ignition enabled source.

Connect the straight cable to the V1 adapter, and mount the adapter using the supplied velcro tape.

Test the V1.
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      11-04-2012, 11:10 AM   #7
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Step 7 - Buttoning Up

Step 7 - buttoning up
Assembly is done in the reverse. A few notes: the A pillar trim is most easy to re-install by removing the two nylon clips from the metal pillar and sliding into the slots on the back of the pillar trim. This way, the trim can just be pushed back into place, instead of trying to slide it back into place.

You may want to use more locktite to reset the torx bolt holding the A pillar trim in place.

Replacing the glove box is easiest done by putting it back in place and closing it before trying to re-install the pivot rod brackets.
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      11-05-2012, 10:40 AM   #8
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If people have not been to the Valentine V1 site https://store.valentine1.com/store/ recently, you should check it out. They have a product called SAVVY that plugs into the OBD port on the driver's side for power, but it also has a thumbwheel to set a speed that it gets from the OBD port. At speeds equal to or lower than what is set on the wheel the V1 chirps once at full volume and then immediately mutes. Great for calming automatic door openers. They also have another product called BOB that seems to be a capacitor to boost the voltage to the V1 while the auto stop-start is starting. I installed both, I did not try it without the BOB device, so I don't know if the X1 starting voltage would reset the V1 or not. I basically followed the same instructions presented here, but on the driver's side A pillar.
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      08-31-2013, 03:03 PM   #9
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Thanks for the write up, I'll be using it to install my V1 this week. I have a question though - is the tapa circuit necessary? From my understanding, all it does is turn one fuse slot into two? If we're not planning to install anything else, is it still needed?

Thanks.
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      09-01-2013, 06:39 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaneda215 View Post
Thanks for the write up, I'll be using it to install my V1 this week. I have a question though - is the tapa circuit necessary? From my understanding, all it does is turn one fuse slot into two? If we're not planning to install anything else, is it still needed?

Thanks.
No, the tapa isn't necessary. In fact, for my 135i, I just plugged a male spade connector into an unused, switched circuit.
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      09-03-2013, 11:19 PM   #11
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A few things I felt worth noting after my installation.

1. I believe the TORX bit needed for the A-pillar was a size 40. The ones used for the glove box are a pretty standard size found in a basic tool kit.

2. If you elect to go the route without using the tapa, you definitely need to go out and buy a male spade. It took me a while to figure out which one to use:

The #10 spade at a 16 gauge seemed to work fine. Just strip the cable coming from the V1 adapter AFTER the fuse (so that the Fuse is still there), and crimp on the spade.



Edit: wording

Last edited by Kaneda215; 09-04-2013 at 01:03 AM.
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      10-06-2013, 04:48 PM   #12
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Thanks for this. It made the installation very simple and straight forward.

My car had a 10A fuse in slot 5. I tried a few other empty fuse sockets, but didn't find one with switched power, so I wound up using the "add-a-fuse" as intended with the 10A fuse on bottom and the 2A fuse on top for the added circuit.

Not sure what circuit 5 is used for, the card shows a picture of a steering wheel, so maybe its the CWP's heated steering wheel.

ASS definitely browns out the radar detector, so I have the V1 BOB thingy on the way to keep sufficient voltage going to the V1 during re-starts.

Thanks again.
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      10-13-2013, 08:34 AM   #13
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One side note-- I installed my Brown-out-Booster (BOB) to fix the problem with the detector resetting on ASS re-start. I did it without removing the glove box from its hinge.

I think you can do the entire install without taking out the glove box. Just follow the instructions for accessing the fuse box: pushing the tabs and releasing the glove box down on its hinge. I think it provides sufficient clearance for you to install the "add-a-circuit" and fish the wire down from the A-pillar.
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      10-21-2013, 09:20 PM   #14
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You can also do the install without removing the A-pillar trim. I did mine and simply used a non-scratch plastic trim tool to push the wire into the space between the trim. It's possible to push it actually underneath the trim and not just jam it into the area, so it's completely invisible. Once you get to the bottom of the trim near the windshield, simply use the soft trim tool to push the wire inside the seam joining the dashboard panels and then down into the glovebox area. Took about 10 minutes and didn't have to remove any trim or the glovebox and looks great.
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      10-22-2013, 12:06 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paradoxical3 View Post
You can also do the install without removing the A-pillar trim. ...
While this is true, I like to know exactly where the wire is in relation to the airbag, so that it would never interfere with its deployment. (I only care because sometimes I'm the passenger)
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      02-06-2014, 11:14 PM   #16
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Hardwiring alternatives

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill B.
Quote:
Originally Posted by paradoxical3 View Post
You can also do the install without removing the A-pillar trim. ...
While this is true, I like to know exactly where the wire is in relation to the airbag, so that it would never interfere with its deployment. (I only care because sometimes I'm the passenger)
Hi Bill,

I pick up my new X1 tom'w, and just like my previous 3 BMWs, I intend to hardwire my V1.

In my prior cars, a 530, a 328 conv, and, most recently, a 2011 X3, I found a switched power source under the overhead console. Usually, it was the wire that powered the Homelink. Then, it was easy to run a wire above the headliner and out the side of a vanity light behind the visor. Hope to do this on the X1. Will document, so stay tuned.
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      05-07-2014, 09:11 PM   #17
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3 months later and still have not figured out how to take down the overhead console (without destroying anything). The BMW documents says there are spring clips directly in front of the reading lights, but I have not been able to engage them to release the console.
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      06-02-2014, 01:15 AM   #18
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Eureka!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alanintx
3 months later and still have not figured out how to take down the overhead console (without destroying anything). The BMW documents says there are spring clips directly in front of the reading lights, but I have not been able to engage them to release the console.
For 3 months, I've been trying to pry the clips that hold the overhead console up in the headliner to hardwire my V1. This weekend I learned the secret and popped it down in 20 seconds. After that it took about 20 minutes to tap into a switched 12V source and ground and run a wire above the headliner and out by the vanity light above the visor. My V1 is clipped to the visor with about 2 inches of wire visible. Project complete!
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      06-02-2014, 06:30 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alanintx View Post
For 3 months, I've been trying to pry the clips that hold the overhead console up in the headliner to hardwire my V1. This weekend I learned the secret and popped it down in 20 seconds. After that it took about 20 minutes to tap into a switched 12V source and ground and run a wire above the headliner and out by the vanity light above the visor. My V1 is clipped to the visor with about 2 inches of wire visible. Project complete!
Where is the How2 bro?
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      06-02-2014, 06:42 PM   #20
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http://<a href="http://forum.e90fana...p?t=875594</a>

Also, do a search for V1 hardwire on e90post.com. Very detailed DIY there.

Everything that you would need to know can be found starting at those URLs.
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      06-05-2014, 12:57 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alanintx View Post
http://<a href="http://forum.e90fana...p?t=875594</a>

Also, do a search for V1 hardwire on e90post.com. Very detailed DIY there.

Everything that you would need to know can be found starting at those URLs.
I appreciate the lead. Thanks!
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      06-06-2014, 12:55 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themishmosh
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alanintx View Post
http://<a href="http://forum.e90fana...p?t=875594</a>

Also, do a search for V1 hardwire on e90post.com. Very detailed DIY there.

Everything that you would need to know can be found starting at those URLs.
I appreciate the lead. Thanks!
Best of luck. It is actually very easy once you get the console down.
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