Quote:
Originally Posted by nospam
Yes, its either M or off from the console and then the steering wheel will switch between recirculated and fresh air.
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I figured it out - it's so needlessly complex that even the person writing the manual got it wrong:
"A" (default) means Automatic, i.e. fresh air, unless the air intake detects pollution.
"M" does
not mean Manual, but recirculated air. M for ...
Miefen?
Off (neither A nor M) means fresh air.
The button on the console will cycle between these three.
The button on the steering wheel will, if pressed when X is lit do:
X = Off: Cycle between Off (fresh) and M (recirculated)
X = "A": Cycle between A (auto) and M (recirculated)
X = "M": Cycle between Off (fresh) and M (recirculated)
Note that the last one is at odds with what the manual states, because if switched to M on the console, the last setting was A, but if pressing the wheel button, it goes to Off instead of A.
Note that it doesn't do anything that the console button doesn't already do. It can save you a button press -- unless you wanted the third setting it can't currently set, in which case it is more likely to cause you to swear and have to press an extra button or two.
Another WTF is the A/C, which is on by default. If reading the manual, you'll discover that if it is on, and the ambient temperature is lower than the desired temperature (like winter or night), it is
not ignored, as one might think.
Instead, it will first cool down the outside air further through the A/C, before warming it up again through the heater.
This is surely burning quite a bit of fuel for the possible benefit[*] of reducing humidity.
I've read studies that a car A/C can cause around 10% difference in fuel economy, so this is one thing to beware of!
[*]: If you live in a high humidity area, I can see it being useful. If you live inland, the problem is more often too dry air when it's cold.